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03 Honda 225 Sitting For Years

chawk_man said:
What pulleys are you asking about? Re-read post #24.

If you are talking about the two throttle pulleys, you just need to grease the area where the throttle cable rides on the pulley groove with a good marine grease. Rub it one with your finger,
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Ok, thanks. I though earlier when you mentioned living the pulleys your were talking about the idlers. I misunderstood
 
My next move is to remove and clean the VST tanks and change the high pressure fuel filters. Anything else I should do while I have the lower cowling of other than the plugs?
 
Check to make sure that the IAB (Intake Air Bypass) mechanism is working.

Sitting in front of the HP fuel filter you will see the IAB control diaphragm. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm. The diaphragm is held in place by two Phillips head screws that you typically remove to get to the HP fuel filter. Remove those two screws, swinging the diaphragm aside. Grab the lever coming out of the diaphragm and pull on it as if the diaphragm was being activated. It should move until the spring arm engages (or nearly engages) the “stop” adjustment screw. Then let go and it should pop right back in place. If so, the IAB is operating as intended.

If you can’t move it, or if it does not pop right back in place, then you need to remove the IAB and clean and lubricate the shaft to the IAB bevels. Note that apparently Honda does not consider this a serviceable item, so from here on, you are on your own. The worst case scenario is that you cannot fix it and will need to fork out about $343 to get a new one from www.boats.net. Part number 17130-ZY3-003ZA.

Before you re-install the diaphragm, hold it in your hand, gently push the arm back into the diaphragm, and hold your finger over the opening in the tube that the vacuum hose attaches too. When you let go of the arm, it should come out a little bit and stay there until you remove your finger. If so, then the diaphragm is operating correctly. If not, the diaphragm is leaking air and must be replaced. Unfortunately, it looks like a replacement is not available, since that diaphragm is part of the entire IAB assembly. However, I suspect that if you search around a bit, you should be able to find a replacement for this fairly standard part.

Also, if you have access to a good hardware store, it would be a good idea to replace those two metric-threaded Phillips head screws with matching hex head screws. It will make it a lot easier to remove them the next time you change out the high pressure fuel filter.
 
I suggest replacing the stainless screws in the VST with allen heads. The lock washers are captive so you'll have to replace those as well. I replaced mine after nearly stripping several of them taking them out. It should be years between VST visits and with dissimilar metals you can be in for a tougher twist than a philips head can survive unscathed. I put allens on the hp filter cover as well.
https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=92c863dd285048571f833701a004ef3b&oe=5B4AA85B
 
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Gary1 said:
I'm about to change the thermostat on mine and I don't plan to unless someone here says otherwise. I would think as long as the 2 surfaces are nice & clean and smooth it would be fine.
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Hello All, in regards to the thermostats. I strongly recommend changing them! Also order new caps, bolts and o-rings. I took over maintenance on my 2002 BF225 last year. Thermostats seemed to be functioning, and from outside bolts and caps looked good. Recent conversation with guy inside Honda R&D, he said replace every two years regardless of functionality to avoid corrosion problem. So I opened them up, all bolts came free but definitely need replacing, one in particular on STBD side was very rusty. STBD tstat not too bad, some calcification. Port tstat, different story. I assume the calcification made a bridge to the engine, or else it was the corrosion product of the copper tstat. However it happened, once there was contact bimetallic corrosion began. Now there is serious pitting, I lost a decent amount of aluminum around the tstat housing. This will also put significant demand on your internal zinc anodes, and shorten their life. Ran test in warm water and both performed same next to new tstat 140-160 degrees. Replacement every two years may be a bit extreme, I don't know yet. But I'm going to keep some spare o-rings on hand and check them regularly from now on. As everyone says, I also find this forum extremely helpful. Just wanted to pass this along incase it can help anyone else.
 
Before I remove the VST tanks I’m thinking I should go through the fuel system in the correct order. I’m getting fuel into the clear bowl on the starboard side of the engine so I would think that the low pressure fuel pump is working. What else is there in this system? I ordered the factory manual but it hasn’t come yet.

The engines will run on either but are not getting fuel from sitting so long
 
Be careful using that ether - not good for the engine.

Doing this from memory - don't have my shop manual with me...

See this link: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF225A3 LA/PIPING/parts.html

From the fuel intake line, the first device is the on board fuel/water separator. Pull it out of the rubber holder remove the bowl and and clean it. Clean the strainer with clean gasoline.

Next is the low pressure fuel filter. If it hasn't been changed within the last two years replace it. If you don't know, replace it.

Next is the low pressure fuel pump. It's a PITA to get to and remove, but given what the engine has been through, it's a good idea to do and and check whether you can pump fuel through it manually by turning the cam drive.

Next is the VST. When you disassemble make sure the float and needle valve are super clean, smooth, and work properly.

From the VST to the fuel pump filter and strainer. See items 5 & 6 at: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF225A3 LA/PIPING/parts.html

From the strainer on to the high pressure fuel filter, which sits on top of the high pressure fuel pump. If you haven't done so, change that filter. Make sure you get the spring in the bottom properly seated and use a new O ring. Be careful with that flimsy O ring, it's really easy to get it out of place or crimped when re-installing.

From there, on to the high pressure fuel pump. The pump sits in a plastic case (that's typically hard to remove) and their is another fuel strainer on the bottom of that holder. See item 29 at: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...03/BF225A3 LA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

From there on to the fuel pressure regulator. See item 6 at: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...2003/BF225A3 LA/FUEL PIPE INJECTOR/parts.html

From there to the fuel rails on each side. Not that there is also a fuel strainer on the mesh filer on the left fuel rail. See item 4 in the diagram above.

OK, fellow denizens of this forum, what did I miss?
 
I finally had some time to poke around the starboard engine. Before i go removing things i tried draining the VST. Nothing came out of it. I have clean gas going into the low pressure pump but not sure about after that.

How do i test the high and low pressure fuel pumps?
 
I used the fuel supply line to wash out all of the associated pipes by getting a fuel hose feed thru and an extension hose to inject fuel thru all the lines so I could use the squeeze bulb to pump fuel thru them. I also removed the VST and removed the top cover and cleaned out the varnish mess with a lint free rag. That's when I discovered the float valve was seized (no movement) and no fuel would enter into the fuel bowl. While it's off you can apply 12dc to the pump and see if it runs. My engine had been sitting for several years as well.

fuel should freely flow thru the low pressure mechanical pump. If the float valve is siezed no fuel will flow thru the VST and high pressure filter or electric pump. Mine was siezed and I almost replace the whole tank cover that includes the float until Hondadude straightened me out. See the comments on thread Honda 115 VST.
 
SaltyDog251 said:
I finally had some time to poke around the starboard engine. Before i go removing things i tried draining the VST. Nothing came out of it. I have clean gas going into the low pressure pump but not sure about after that.

How do i test the high and low pressure fuel pumps?
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Remove the discharge hose that goes from the low pressure pump to the VST from the VST. Place the end of that hose in a container/glass. Crank the engine over (if you are to a point where you feel confident that it should be cranked) and see if you have fuel in your container. If you have fuel in that container/glass then you either have a plugged drain on your VST or a stuck closed float valve. Either way the VST needs to come out and be checked out/cleaned/repaired. If you aren't to the point of being able to crank the engine I'd forgo checking the low pressure pump and just pull the VST and check it out. Even if the container/glass doesn't have fuel in it after cranking which would point to a low pressure fuel pump problem I'd STILL pull the VST while I'm in there and give it a go through.

***I unplug the ignition coils as a short cut to keep the engine from firing up while I'm checking stuff that needs me to crank the engine.
 
I'm really trying to avoid removing the VST as it seems like a major pain in the ass. I might not have a choice though.

Im removed the hi pressure fuel filter and tomorrow I'll crank the engine and see if any fuel comes out the filter cover from the low pressure pump

will I be able to hear the high pressure pump when the key is on?
 
I'm in the process of doing the same thing, cleaning the VST, and you should hear the high pressure pump run for about 2 seconds.
 
You can provide 12 vdc to the electrical plug that feeds the pump and determine if it's good or bad. It's just two wires on the connector. Just don't let your leads short together from the 12v battery or sparks will fly.
 
Gary1 said:
You can provide 12 vdc to the electrical plug that feeds the pump and determine if it's good or bad. It's just two wires on the connector. Just don't let your leads short together from the 12v battery or sparks will fly.
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Thsnks

Do I have to run a ground wire too or is the pump grounded where it mounts?
 
Have you removed the VST/pump/filter assembly from the engin yet? If not forget my last post. The pump should only be tested when it's been removed from the engine, thoroughly drain of all explosive fuel and only after all remaining explosive fuel in it has evaporated.
 
By the way my VST removal took about 20 minutes to do and was not a pain in the ass. 4 bolts and a few hoses and it was off, drained of fuel and on my work bench.
 
Ok, pump is junk. I took the bolts and hose off of the VST and the thing is wiggling around like a loose tooth but wont come out.

Do I have to remove the intake to get it out?
 
I had to remove 3 bolts and 6 hoses. 4 fuel related hoses and 2 on the back side related to fresh water cooling for the VST and whole assembly VST tank, pump and high pressure fuel filter all came out as one assembly. Of course my engine is a 115. I did look at the Honda assembly drawing for the 225 and the VST looks the same or very similar to as mine.
 
Gary1 said:
I had to remove 3 bolts and 6 hoses. 4 fuel related hoses and 2 on the back side related to fresh water cooling for the VST and whole assembly VST tank, pump and high pressure fuel filter all came out as one assembly. Of course my engine is a 115. I did look at the Honda assembly drawing for the 225 and the VST looks the same or very similar to as mine.
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This 225 does not want to give up this damn VST!

the manual say the whole intake has to come off and I'm starting to believes it.
 
Have you searched this forum? Surely someone has done it before for 225 and and can provide better guidance than me. Can't believe you would have to pull the head to remove the VST. One thought, Have you taken off the side cover so you have more room to work? I seem to recall seeing a YouTube video for 225 high pressure fuel filter swap and the guy removed the side covers using a 10mm socket. Here's the video

https://youtu.be/SRVi0UI38pY
 
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I just took my VST out. The intake manifold comes off and so does the brace that goes around the motor for the lower cowlings. It would slide right out if it weren't for that bump in the middle. I first pulled the vacuum tubes off the vacuum can, high pressure fuel supply tube. Then started working off the fuel lines attached. Some were easier on the VST side others are easier on the other side.

BTW, mine is a 03 225. While I have all the stuff off, yesterday I replaced the anodes in the exhaust manifold, when the rest of the parts come in on Tuesday, I'll check valve clearance, install new VST, and button everything back together.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.
 
SaltyDog251 said:
Thanks, we have the same engines. Why are you replacing the whole VST?

Where about are the exhaust anodes located?
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When I bought my boat last summer, a lot of the maintenance item looked as if they had been overlooked. I think the prior owner did the bare minimum, like fluids and pump on a regular basis, but that was about it. So since I have had it, I have been going through and catching up on the longer term maintenance items.

A few weeks ago one of my motors was acting as if it was fuel starved, so I first replaced all my fuel filters and that made it a little better, but didn't fix it. The next step in the process was to drain the VST. The drain screw was frozen and I destroyed it trying turn it, so I decided to pull it and clean it by taking it apart. Once I got it apart, the metal baffle on the top cover was not attached any more, but most everything else looked pretty good. I pulled the pump out and tested it with my truck battery and something was rattling around inside it. It seemed to run fine, but sooner or later that rattle would probably be an issue. Once I priced out everything to rebuild the VST, new HP fuel pump, new pump housing, and all the little stuff to put it back together, it was well over $500, so since the new assembly was $800, it was a no brainer. Now I have a bunch of spare parts if I need them when I do the other one. Plus a few extra hundred buys a lot of piece of mind when you are out on the water.

The internal anodes are in the exhaust manifold. Since I have everything already apart, I went ahead and did them. They were not in terrible shape, but bad enough to need it done in another year. The first one took me about an hour and a half to do it, but the second one about 45 min. It's harder getting it back together than tearing it apart with new seal and o ring.

Let me know if you have any questions on the process.
 
I finally got the VST out and it might not come apart. I soaked some of the screws and I'll try again tomorrow. Height pressure fuel pump is also junk
 
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