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Fuel pukes from filler when filling up at the pumps.

Chris Rohde

Regular Contributor
Hi all,

Not really a VP specific problem this time. I also posted in the fuel section, but it doesn't look like anyone's lurked in that forum for 8 or 9 months. Hoping someone here can lend some advice.


I have a problem when filling that the fuel at the pump does not shut off, and the boat pukes out a ton of fuel when filling. It's a Perko style filler, where the vent is right there at the filler opening as well. I read somewhere that these had a problem at one point in time. But this was a vague posting with no real solution. I also read, it would be good to run the vent line separate of the filler, and mount it as high and straight up as possible. I'm not sure what my options are there yet, as my filler point is already very high up.

So 2 questions;

1. Anyone know if Perko has since re-designed/fixed these somehow? Due to it's unique shape, It would be best to keep that style of filler.
2. If I do relocate the vent higher, how much higher does it need to be to really be effective?

Thanks!!
 
Chris, I don't like the fill-neck fittings with the integrated vent connection. I think that these are problematic!

You'll do better with a standard fill-neck and separate vent line fitting. (aim the open area AFT and downward)

Also make sure that the vent line is clear and that it has a reverse P-trap affair.... meaning that it will make a "high-loop" at the upper-most area before it comes back down and connects to the actual vent fitting.


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I'm going to go ahead and replace the 3/8", 5/8" and 1 1/2" hoses as well at this time. They are 24 years old now, and while they visually look okay, I do get quite a bit of fuel smell out of them that tends to fill the entire blige area.
 
...get quite a bit of fuel smell out of them that tends to fill the entire blige area.

Your nose is one of the better indicators when it comes to fuel problems....

The vent doesn't have to be very high to function.....but the line needs to be open and free of water (for many reasons).....

If you are changing the hose, make sure the replacement is Marine Rated fuel line....and all metal fittings are all bonded back to the tank
 
We have alot of little critters around here that like to make their nest in small holes and vents. Sounds like your on the right track you still need to be careful when topping off a tank either way.
 
I have a problem when filling that the fuel at the pump does not shut off, and the boat pukes out a ton of fuel when filling.

Ayuh,.... Auto-shut-off nozzles should be outlawed for on water fuelin',....

Yer hand, should never leave the nozzle while fuelin',....

They work on a car, because the vent, vents into the fill-pipe,... Not so with boats,....

It's yer technique, not the fuel fill that's the problem,....
I put whistles in my vent lines, to warn me the tank is nearin' Full, so I can shut-off the flow,....
 
Yeah, I never take my hand off, but I still get puked on. I can't hear it until it's too late. As soon as I hear it' there's already too much and nothing I can do to keep it from burping out. I'd be interested in more info on the whistles. : )
 
Does the puke happen at any fill speeds, or only on HIGH?

Very likely the hose routing is far from optimal....and could be improved a bunch.
 
Seems to do it on any type of pump fast ones or slow ones. I think slow ones I might be able to catch a little better and make it not as bad. I found one of Bondo's whistles, so I ordered that, and I'll try to run the new hoses as optimal as possible and I'll run the vent separate from the filler.

Between those 3 modifications to the current setup, I'd sure hope to make it better. :cool:
 
The vent lines on many boats is below the level of the fill in order to give an early warning of a full tank. There is no auto shut off feature on marine fuel pumps. Not having it "burp" is part of the "art" of filling a boat's fuel tank. If you have good ear you can hear the air flow out of the vent line stop (or get quiter)... At this point, the fuel tank is full to the top and air is no longer entering the vent line. This is how the "vent whistle" works.

RE replacing fuel lines... ANY and ALL lines that come in contact with fuel should be replaced if more than about 10 years old. To be sure, check to see if fuel lines are marked "alcohol resistant"..
 
Great point on putting the vent lower Sandkicker. I'll search for a good place that is lower, and where I'll be in a good position to hear the whistle while filling.

Regarding the lines. I definitely went with the good stuff. All A1 and A2 USCG approved hoses by Shields. I don't typically cut corners, and if I were to it definitely wouldn't be with anything fuel related.
 
Ayuh,... A couple other issues with boat gas tanks,....

I've seen many, that the fill fittin' is an abrupt 90* turn into the tank, no radis, causes backwash,....

I've seen many, that the fill, 'n vents are at the aft end of the tank, so it acts full, but ain't,....

I've seen many, that the fill hose has a belly in it, causin' added resistance,....

'n I've dealt with a few that the hull vent fittin' is put in the worst possible spot, to keep water outa the tank,....

Hi-Liner 222s come to mind, as I fought water in the fuel on a few of 'em,...
The vent fittin' is on the aft corner, on the side of the hull,....
Just as the hull starts to break over onto plane, the water is POUNDIN' against the vent, 'n water runs right into the tank,....

Once I figured out the Problem,....
I moved the vent fittin' 'round the corner to the transom, 'n put a loop up, before it drops down to the tank,....

Boat gas tank vent whistles,.....
 
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Regardless of the vent fitting's elevation....... you will want to incorporate the high loop as to reduce the risk of water intrusion.
 

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Great info guys. Trust me, i'm taking it all in. : )

I have not yet stuck my head below deck, but I'm guessing that this is at least part of what I will find.
ScreenShot002.jpg
 
Regardless of the vent fitting's elevation....... you will want to incorporate the high loop as to reduce the risk of water intrusion.

Chris, believe it or not...... a major source of fuel tank water intrusion is caused when kids help Mom or Dad wash the boat!
That vent fitting becomes a target for a child who is manning the garden hose spray nozzle.
If you have kids that help with this........, make sure that they know to NOT to aim the hose at this fitting!




Great info guys. Trust me, i'm taking it all in. : )

I have not yet stuck my head below deck, but I'm guessing that this is at least part of what I will find.
View attachment 17161

Most boats come from the factory without this being an issue. It's more likely to occur when an owner does his/her own fuel-fill hose replacement!

But you are correct......., we do not want the hose to dip below the elevation of the fuel tank inlet fitting.



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Okay. All my parts are in, hoses, vent, whistle. So I peeled the carpet back, removed the small access plates and this is what I found. The reason I believe my vent is not overflowing before I overfill the boat is because it's on the complete opposite end of the tank and the hose if stretched out would be a good 6' longer than the fill hose.

That and because the stern of the boat sits lower, that vent line has almost no chance of filling with fuel. So I don't think the whistle would even be effective in it's current configuration. Additionally, that vent line runs very long horizontally along the top of the tank before it picks up any incline at all, and the whistle says to try to install it at a 45* or close to.

What I'm thinking of doing is running a new vent line to the starboard side up high, with the 4" loop and pointing the opening aft ask Rick suggested. I have room to do this, and it would shorten that run by at least 5 or 6 feet, and I could get to an incline faster, so the whistle could should work.

Please see the picture below, and as always, your feedback is much appreciated!! : )

Fuel Line Locations.jpg
 
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Okay guys, If you don't mind, I'd like a couple of opinions before moving on. See photos below.

They apparently cut one strap too long, and installed it anyway. If this was your boat, would you bother to correct it or leave it knowing that the tank hasn't moved with it like it is?

How hard would be be to add a 3/8" return line to the tank? Can it be done properly?

Note: In the photos, I called the 3/8" line the return line, but I guess it's really the fuel to engine "pickup" line.
Tank Full View.jpg


Tank Strap.jpg
 

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....................
Okay guys, If you don't mind, I'd like a couple of opinions before moving on. See photos below.

They apparently cut one strap too long, and installed it anyway. If this was your boat, would you bother to correct it or leave it knowing that the tank hasn't moved with it like it is?
I would shorten it and re-secure it.

How hard would be be to add a 3/8" return line to the tank? Can it be done properly?
Unless the USGC regs have changed, to the best of my knowledge a return-to-fuel-tank gasoline line is not legal.

Note: In the photos, I called the 3/8" line the return line, but I guess it's really the fuel to engine "pickup" line.
What you have labeled a "return" line, is actually the fuel supply line.
The 90* fitting is connected to the fuel tank pick-up tube, and is equipped with an "anti-siphon" valve.


View attachment 17299
 
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