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Best Carrier Bearing Tool For Old Evinrude?

Old problem has new victim--ME! Two motors: 1976 Evinrude 135 HP and 1977 Evinrude 85 HP. You know it! Fighting this thing for months. Prop shaft seal leaks. I have watched at least a dozen YouTube vids on homemade tools and contraptions to remove bearing carrier. I have seen the"seal hack" vid and that's not for me. Have come up with my own as well, but to no avail. No salt motors--just age. Unsure about amount of heat. I don't want to ruin a gear case housing. Ultimately heat will have to be used, but I want the tool to do most of the work. I've seen (4) tools anywhere from $80 to $234. GLM 90095, Marine Tech, Sierra and Precision. What's the most suitable for old Evinrude/Johnson? This is a killer!! Need help.
 
???----Why not a couple off pieces of 5/15-NC threaded rod from the hardware store and a " strong back " or visit you automotive parts store as many have a tool rental program.
 
Power steering fluid inside and out side and time just let it soak a day at a time. Fab up an adaptor for the propshaft you can pop it out with a slide hammer.
 
Maybe not ise a slide hammer on the propshaft just do what racer says. The power steering fluid is my favorite liquid wrench it dissolves corrosion. Its hard on paint also.
 
You have one thing going for you--no salt water. But that doesn't mean they don't corrode in fresh water also. The only solution in many salt water cases involves destroying the carrier. Just sayin'

Anyhow, the carrier is shaped like a big spool with an inner and outer ring. The inner ring rarely ever gives a problem. But the outer ring certainly does. In salt water, you would break away sections of the outer ring to free it up.

Your experience may vary. But go ahead and try the non-destructive methods first.
 
Get some Looks like 1/4-20 all thread for the two bolt holes in the carrier the take some 1/2 inch plate and drill three holes and tap the center hole with fine thread and get a # 8 bolt and grind it to a point. Put pressure on the carrier and heat the housing hot to touch but not enough to scorch the paint.
 
No ---The threads in the bearing carrier are 5/!6-NC when it left the factory I believe.-----When you use threaded rod you only need 2 holes in the strong back !!
 
Thanks. I tried the threaded rods with a KD Tool 2286. Won't budge. There's a generic 2-3 jaw puller "loaner tool" I may try if I can keep the ends of the jaws from gouging the inside of the gear case housing. Thanks again.
 
Thanks. Not against breaking the carrier if push comes to shove. The 5/16 NC threads in the upper part of the stuck carrier are stretched from several attempts;but may get another shot at it. Thanks again.
 
Try mixing ATF and lacquer thinner (acetone) 50-50. It thins the ATF so it flows between the parts a little better. That and
heat. Al melts at 1221 deg F so no oxy/acet torch. MAAP or propane. I just did a total disassembly of a 67 9.5hp. Took
lots of heat. I monitored the temp with a $30 laser temp gun from Harbor Freight. About 850 F things started to come
apart. Forget hardware store all thread. Good for light applications but the threads don't meet ASME standards and the
steel quality is very poor. Go to an auto parts store and get some SAE Gr 8 studs to build your strong back. If you strip out the threads in the bearing carrier you probably have enough room to re-drill and tap 3/8". take your time it will come
 
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