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At my whits end!!!!!

R

Robersonnoah

New member
1993 johnson 40 hp 2 stroke
This thing wont run. Carbs clean and rebuilt twice, ive replaced the power pack and coil pack and plug wires. After i did that it would run for 30 seconds and die. So i replaced the fuel pump and got a new fuel tank. And got good marine fuel. Now the motor wont hit a lick. I tested the compression, and i have 135 on the top cylinder and 140 on the bottom. Does anyone have an idea why. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank yall.
 
The spark must jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

Assuming you've had the flywheel off.... Did you torque the flywheel nut down to factory specifications? If not, the flywheel key is sheared which throws the engine out of time.
 
It has good spark. I have not had the flywheel off. Some background info on this motor. It had set up for 2 years. When i bought the boat i took it to my mechanic to have him change the lower unit oil, water pump and rebuild the carbs. He tested it and it run great. So the day after i got it back i took it out. It ran strong for 2 hours. On the way back to the landing, i was running near wide open and it just died. I checked for fire and didnt have any. So i replaced the power pack and coil pack. After this i had fire and it would run for maybe 30 seconds. So i figured maybe the duel pump changed that and now it wont hit at all
 
Sounds to me like you are just throwing parts at it without doing a proper diagnostic. If you are getting any voltage at the kill wire with the key on you lokely fried another power pack. Disconnect the kill wire at the pack and check for spark with a open air spark gap tester.
 
Ok ill check the spark tomorrow. This is my first boat and i have no clue what im doing other than what people tell me to do. They tell me to replace something i do it. Sorry if i come off as ignorant.
 
Always revert back to the basics 1 compression 2 spark 3 fuel. i keep a length of fuel line handy if the compression is acceptable and the spark jumps the gap then dip the fuel line in the tank and plug the rnd with your finger then stick it in the plug holes and release your finger. Quickly put the plugs in and see if she fires up. That will tell you if it is a fuel supply issue. If the plugs come out wet see if it burns with a lighter. i cant even guess how many times water as been a issue left me scratching my head. Drain the float bowls and see if water is in the bottom of the dish it looks like air bubbles. Get to know your engine comes in real handy out there when issues come up.
 
Robersonnoah said:
Ok ill check the spark tomorrow. This is my first boat and i have no clue what im doing other than what people tell me to do. They tell me to replace something i do it. Sorry if i come off as ignorant.
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Take Kimcrwbr1's advice and take a step back. The folks here are great and what he's trying to help you avoid is you wasting money by installing unnecessary parts. Step by step troubleshooting with clear, complete information provided is the best way folks on this forum can help you solve the problem.

Some information needed from a person posting for the first time:
1) Model #
2) What is the compression #'s on each cylinder
3) Does each cylinder have spark that will jump 7/16"

When you say it 'won't hit a lick' what does that mean? Does the starter crank the engine when you turn the key? If yes, does it not try to fire or does it just keep turning?

You said you replaced the fuel pump. Was this a VRO fuel pump or has the motor been converted to a standard pulse pump and you're pre-mixing oil and fuel? If it's VRO did you prime the oil lines and make sure all the oil tank components are in good shape?

Please tell us how you are trying to start the engine.

The proper starting procedure for a cold engine should be as follows:
1) Squeeze the fuel primer bulb until firm.
2) Turn key to the ON position but do not engage starter
3) Press in on the key to activate the primer solenoid
4) Turn the key to engage the starter
5) If the engine doesn't fire within about 5 seconds release the starter
6) Repeat process until it starts.


Here are a couple extra tips.
First, make sure the red lever on your primer solenoid is facing down. It will be behind the air silencer box next to the carbs. If the lever is pointing to the right it puts the solenoid in manual mode and can flood the engine.

You said the carbs have been off and rebuilt. Is this a single carb engine? Did you make sure the throttle linkage is properly aligned so that the butterfly is completely closed in the idle position? If the butterfly is open that will lean out your fuel mixture and make starting a nightmare.

KJ
 
racerone said:
There is more than 1 carburetor on that motor !
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I thought so but wanted to be sure. I owned a fishing boat with a '95 Evinrude 50 for a while but couldn't remember if it was single or dual carb.

Sounds like a link and sync is in order as well since they've been on and off a couple times.

KJ
 
Robersonoah; hang in there, You in good hands with these folks, They know what their talking about. I only wish I knew as much so I could help too. Good luck with it.:)
 
Seeker of truth said:
Robersonoah; hang in there, You in good hands with these folks, They know what their talking about. I only wish I knew as much so I could help too. Good luck with it.:)
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Exactly, I have seen these guys walk a complete moron through repairing several engines. All the moron needed to do was exactly what he was told to do and in the exact order he was told to do it. And, Yep, MY engines are still running.
 
Bullie said:
Exactly, I have seen these guys walk a complete moron through repairing several engines. All the moron needed to do was exactly what he was told to do and in the exact order he was told to do it. And, Yep, MY engines are still running.
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Then you are hereby promoted to non-moron status. :rolleyes:
 
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