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5.7GI efi issues with idle, shifting & more

Regal1973

New member
First time posting. Sorry it's a bit long but wanted as much info as possible.

I have a '08 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI efi motor. Recently purchased boat which had not been used prior to our purchase in 6 months. Pre purchase test drive and all was good, even with a near full tank of old fuel (NON ethanol fuel). Preventative measures after purchasing, before going out for first time, I removed the injectors and had cleaned ( all had great flow patterns). Also checked low and high fuel pressures. Low was 10-11psi, high was 50-51psi. Inspected fuel regulator which looked perfectly clean.

Took it out for our "offical" first time, started right up at dock, ran great for about 15 minutes on plane. Backed down to idle and it stalled. Hard to get it to restart without advanced neutral throttle. Anchored and enjoyed rest of day. Went to start up to leave and very hard to get started without advanced throttle. Would die when shifting into gear. Finally got it going, and when slowing, approaching the dock, pulling into neutral, it died.

Did research and read about IAC valve. Purchased new one and still same issue. Old one was in bad shape. The New IAC I can actually see operating with flame arrestor removed from throttle body. Rechecked high side fuel pressure. High pressure shows 50-51psi and only drops about 1psi when throttle is advanced.

If I put shifter in neutral, and advance throttle maybe a 1/4" throttle, I can get it to start up. Once started, it will idle with throttle in this position. If I pull throttle back the 1/4" worth, it immediately dies ( Will not start or idle in true neutral position).
Also to note is when motor is dead cold, like after sitting over night, I still have to do the above to get it to start. What's different when dead cold is once its started, it will idle ruff for 5-10 seconds like it's missing and then smooth out on it's own. After that first cold ruff start, it doesn't run ruff anymore, no matter how many times it's started in a row.

I'm puzzled to what it might be. The only thing left on throttle body is TPS. I disconnected the cable from it when it was running and nothing changed. Not sure if the computer overrides it or what. Outside of the cold ruff start, it acts like the idle is just to low...but I don't see where anything has move with cables etc...and also read where people.say never adjust the cables on efi motors without scan tool. Really don't wanna go to a shop at 95-100 bucks an hour either.... any ideas, any suggestions?
Just came to me,,,,One thing I also did was remove the shifter from panel ut was mounted to when purchased, as I wanted to re upholster it with new vinyl. I didn't move, adjust or change anything that I'm aware of.....and our first outing, it started fine at the dock....just started acting up 15 min later...
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
First time posting. Sorry it's a bit long but wanted as much info as possible.

I have a '08 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI efi motor. Recently purchased boat which had not been used prior to our purchase in 6 months. Pre purchase test drive and all was good, even with a near full tank of old fuel (NON ethanol fuel). Preventative measures after purchasing, before going out for first time, I removed the injectors and had cleaned ( all had great flow patterns). Also checked low and high fuel pressures. Low was 10-11psi, high was 50-51psi. Inspected fuel regulator which looked perfectly clean.

Took it out for our "offical" first time, started right up at dock, ran great for about 15 minutes on plane. Backed down to idle and it stalled. Hard to get it to restart without advanced neutral throttle. Anchored and enjoyed rest of day. Went to start up to leave and very hard to get started without advanced throttle. Would die when shifting into gear. Finally got it going, and when slowing, approaching the dock, pulling into neutral, it died.

Did research and read about IAC valve. Purchased new one and still same issue. Old one was in bad shape. The New IAC I can actually see operating with flame arrestor removed from throttle body. Rechecked high side fuel pressure. High pressure shows 50-51psi and only drops about 1psi when throttle is advanced.

If I put shifter in neutral, and advance throttle maybe a 1/4" throttle, I can get it to start up. Once started, it will idle with throttle in this position. If I pull throttle back the 1/4" worth, it immediately dies ( Will not start or idle in true neutral position).
Also to note is when motor is dead cold, like after sitting over night, I still have to do the above to get it to start. What's different when dead cold is once its started, it will idle ruff for 5-10 seconds like it's missing and then smooth out on it's own. After that first cold ruff start, it doesn't run ruff anymore, no matter how many times it's started in a row.

I'm puzzled to what it might be. The only thing left on throttle body is TPS. I disconnected the cable from it when it was running and nothing changed. Not sure if the computer overrides it or what. Outside of the cold ruff start, it acts like the idle is just to low...but I don't see where anything has move with cables etc...and also read where people.say never adjust the cables on efi motors without scan tool. Really don't wanna go to a shop at 95-100 bucks an hour either.... any ideas, any suggestions?
Just came to me,,,,One thing I also did was remove the shifter from panel ut was mounted to when purchased, as I wanted to re upholster it with new vinyl. I didn't move, adjust or change anything that I'm aware of.....and our first outing, it started fine at the dock....just started acting up 15 min later...
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks

I let it sit for a while, sat arou d starring at it for a bit, and went back out to try and start again. It started without advancing throttle and let me go to neutral a couple times but now it's back to dying on me.
One thing I notice is the iac valve is loud with a up and down loud hissing noise. I took the flame arrestor off and the plunger is moving in and out constantly with sound to match. This was a brand new iac I just put in today. Why would the plunger be moving so frantically, in and out?
Is this something that needs to have computer scan done?
 
I think you definitely need to pull codes and start there. You should be able to get a basic code reader pretty inexpensively. Check eBay or Amazon. If you pull codes and post them here with your COMPLETE engine identification, there should be plenty of people here that can help.
 
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