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1972 65 hp evinrude triumph. Help .

This picture on post #31 didn't want to load for me for some reason, just kept doing a link. I am not shooting for pretty so much as ya see; "just durability and dependability" . I got the styrofoam close cell insulation to go inside the ribs on the floor then thin plywood and then indoor outdoor carpet green. Trying to stay light as possible. Anyone know how much this motor weighs? I will be getting a sign that says; "GONE FISHING". :eek:
 
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Morning All; Have a couple questions about this 65 evinrude. When I was first working on it I cranked it and ran just fine , cranked every time so I ran it two to three minutes a few times then shut it off and change water pump kit and when I got through yesterday I tried to crank it to check water flow and it wouldn't fire. No spark to plugs and its getting gas. Having a little trouble getting it to go to neutral with push buttons unless I put hot to green wire then it goes right in neutral but wouldn't crank when it is hooked like that. Research some on the internet last night to see if I can find the reason but so far still not sure why it doesn't crank after it ran so good and I turn it off with it running. Any suggestions on what to check? "Thanks for any advice".
 
Disconnect the kill wire to the power pack and see if she starts? Measure voltage to the wire whole shifting gears. If there is any voltage whatever to the wire it is possible there is fatal damage to the powerpack. The kill wire provides ground to the PP even a small amount can be fatal. Go through the wiring thoroughly. Do you have the diagram?
 
No diagram unless one on motor somewhere; will check . I think its wired correct since it ran at first so good. Does seem like somewhat of a kill switch wire to me. I will trace the wires real good. I was just curious as to why it ran good then after water pump kit it want crank. I am sure I didn't mess with anything in wiring other than the one's to foot. I will check what you said. And thank you so much.
 
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The ignition is independent of the charging system once started you can choke it to stop. A short in the wiring or a faulty ignition switch is the usual culpret.
 
When you say no fire is do you mean no spark?
crank=starter spins strong
compression=passes compression test
spark=passes spark gap test
fire=fuel burns
allways start from the beginning when diagnosing a no start condition.
is the fuel fresh with 50:1 oil mix
what are your compression numbers
does the spark jump a 7/16 open air spark gap test
 
Yes, no spark. spins strong, have to pick up compression tester and will post numbers after, when I get a spark, will measure, fuel is new and 50:1 oil mix too. Gonna start over at beginning. "thanks" kimcrwbr1
 
Well like they say all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. lol So I went to beach to take a break from working on this boat for a little bit.
Caught this one.



DSCN0371.jpg


This bird kept coming up so I feed it some shrimp which it really loved.



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Had a pelican come up to our boat one day we fed it some herring i wouldnt want a finger or hand in that beak. Good thing we were going back in i dont think he would have let us land a fish. That was a big bird.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Had a pelican come up to our boat one day we fed it some herring i wouldnt want a finger or hand in that beak. Good thing we were going back in i dont think he would have let us land a fish. That was a big bird.
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This one was hungry and a little on the thin side to me. If I was you I wouldn't put a finger in their beak either. lol



I went to Napa and got compression tester and will test it and put numbers up. "Thanks kimcrwbr1"


:)
 
kimcrwbr1, Went out pulled three plugs and did compression check top one was 131, second was 133 , third was 132. Put plugs back in and turn it over fired right up and sit there running perfect let it run about 10 minutes reved it just a little run great so cut it off. Gonna still check all wires really thorough though like you said and starting on floor with close cell styrofoam I bought. Do you think compression is ok? Run great and idles great too. It's real quite too. Thank you so much :)


I must of had it flooded last week.
 
Compression is excellent for a 40yr plus engine. Not a big fan of styrofoam get some good pouring foam and then glass over the plywood after patching the holes. That seals the plywood top and bottom.
 
Great about compression; I was a little worried it wasn't good, didn't know what it suppose to be, Thanks and I will check out the pouring foam too.:)
 
The pouring foam is nice just cut 2 inch holes in the deck and save the plugs. Have someone measure the two parts and have plenty of cups handy once you start you need to keep pouring til done. As the foam pushes out the hole stuff in a plug and set a brick on top. Leave a small gap around the outer edge for the air and excess foam to escape. A gallon of the 4lb should be plenty just be ready once you mix the two parts you have little time to get it into the hole before it takes off.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
It gets confusing when someone uses the word crank. Does it turn over and not start? Or is the starter not turning (wont crank over)?
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Yep... Sure as hell does. Here's something (below) that a fellow member typed up quite some time ago. Haven't seen him around lately, however I saved what he had to say as obviously I thought it worth saving.

"(Crank vs Start Explanation)
(By member "Xcuseme" of another forum)

The following was posted by a forum member and friend (Xcuseme) as an explanation to eliminate confusion pertaining to their term of "Cranking" vs "Starting". I thought it was well worth saving for re-posting when needed. His post of years ago is as follows.

"OK, I see where this is going..it's all about terminology. Cranking or 'to crank the motor' is the act of rotating the crank shaft (and flywheel) of the motor. By pulling the rope of a rope start motor OR using the starter to accomplish the same thing, you're cranking the motor. Cranking the motor is NOT starting the motor, but you do have to crank the motor in order to start it . Unless the ignition has been disabled, cranking the motor will normally start the motor.

The motor should not be running when doing a compression test. Disabling the ignition system does 2 things. It prevents the motor from accidentally starting and protects the ignition system from damage.

A recent poster said " My motor won't CRANK up".......this is confusing. Others will then ask " Are you saying the motor won't START or are you saying the motor won't turn over (rotate) because of a defective electric starter. The poster would have made things clear by saying 'My motor won't START up'. The terms Crank and Start are not interchangeable."
 
True joereeves; guess some of us do need to think a bit about the way we word things. Most seem to be new to boating that need help and not that familiar with the way to speak of marine engines, I guess. Thanks for info.:eek:
 
Figured I would update my thread on my progress so far. After posting my success on replacing water pump housing and impeller I thought it was fine had water coming out the two exhaust holes some but only when I rev engine a little, so I been watching videos and one showed remove thermostat housing and water should be rushing out. Well did that and no water at all so did what they said used a wire and tried to see if it was plugged up still no water. I put vinegar in and let sit over night still no water. So took foot back off and seen tube going up not hitting pump right. And long storey short it took me several tries to get it aligned but finally got it and shoots water way out from thermostat housing now. I get the new thermostat and gaskets today from MarineEngine.com so all is good now thank goodness.:)
 
Do you have a house circuit for lights and accys? A fuse block and grounding bar make it easy to add appliances and protect the engine circuit. Two heavy guage wires from the battery to the fuse block and put a 40 amp fuse in line for the hot wire at the battery. You can never have too many fuses on a boat!
 
You right kimcrwbr1 you never have to many and I have to buy that stuff may have some of it from all the cars I've worked on in past. I Will have to look and see then buy the rest. Figured I would run the wires and place the lights and whatever else then put a fuse block and ground bar and switches. Any how today I replaced thermostat and gaskets that came from MarineEnhine.com today and then ran it for half an hour it stayed cool and water was coming out exhaust holes so all's good with motor and moving on now to rest. Thanks for advice kimcrwbr1.
 
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