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New owner of a 2004 BF225

For submerged parts I just put liberal amounts of marine grease. I squeeze some in the hole and run the bolt in and remove the bolt and repeat. The first time all you are doing is pushing grease all the way down in there. The second time is the insurance policy that all threads are coated. This has worked for me so far but there maybe better ways.

Also if you are able to do a compression check then do it. You'll have all the plugs out anyway so verify the engine is in good health. Lack of records would be a bit unnerving for me and I'd want to know.
 
Thanks guys. I will pick up some marine grease this weekend. With some heat the stubborn stud came out. During this time I discovered the wires leading to the water separator bowl have coroded and broken off. I looked online and they want $108 for a new one (ouch) anyone have a cheaper source?
 
Marine Supply in Gulfport Mississippi has LOTS of salvaged Honda parts. I wouldn't hesitate to use a water separator from them. They close early on Saturdays call before 12 for a price.
(228) 896-9651
 
I'm surprised that your engine has the float sender on the fuel/water separator. Didn't think those were added until 2005.

The earlier 225's didn't have that float switch. If you have a good 10 micron external fuel/water separator, and you change that filter element every 100 hours, you may be able to get by with a broken switch on the on-board F/W separator. In 2200 hours of operation, I've never found any water in the on-board separator - it's all been caught by the external separator.
 
chawk_man said:
I'm surprised that your engine has the float sender on the fuel/water separator. Didn't think those were added until 2005.

The earlier 225's didn't have that float switch. If you have a good 10 micron external fuel/water separator, and you change that filter element every 100 hours, you may be able to get by with a broken switch on the on-board F/W separator. In 2200 hours of operation, I've never found any water in the on-board separator - it's all been caught by the external separator.
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Are you referring to the separator just below the ECM? This is on my 02' 225.
Click link for pic if the pic doesn't post.
https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=e8c01bc8daa1ec24c4d03ddcfecfdfa7&oe=5B3D5FE6
28468027_2537425233149337_8131144220002712029_n.jpg
 
Yes. Your '02 does not have the sending unit, thus no wires coming out of the bottom of the bowl. Mhelton's '04 apparently does. As I said in the previous post, I didn't think they used those until 2005, but obviously I'm wrong about that. It's basically a very simple float switch. If enough water gets in the bowl, the float moves up in the bowl and makes a connection in the switch, setting off rapid beeps on the alarm.
 
I rolled the dice and ordered a replacement off of EBay today. For $55 shipped I figured I’d give it a try. The separator I’m talking about is the same one located under the ECM and mine does have the wires. I considered leaving it (broken) but would rather have it functioning as it should. Having the shop manual made changing the water pump a breeze. All I have left on my preseason check list is the high pressure fuel filter, new spark plugs and fluids (lower unit and engine).
 
Test the F/W separator when you get it. With separator right side up - no continuity on the wires. With separator upside down, full continuity. Make sure the float moves up and down easily inside the bowl.
 
chawk_man said:
Yes. Your '02 does not have the sending unit, thus no wires coming out of the bottom of the bowl. Mhelton's '04 apparently does. As I said in the previous post, I didn't think they used those until 2005, but obviously I'm wrong about that. It's basically a very simple float switch. If enough water gets in the bowl, the float moves up in the bowl and makes a connection in the switch, setting off rapid beeps on the alarm.
Click to expand...

It does have the wires. That pic conceals them better than if I actually tried to conceal them. Two wires come off the bottom and run up the side of the engine where they plug in. I picked the absolute wrong pic to post because the wires are very much concealed by the angle of the photo but I wonder if maybe the difference you speak of has something to do with how the separator is wired (concealed vs obvious) rather than if they are wired. Both my 02's have wired separators.
 
Well, OK. I don't have my shop manual with me here at Hatteras, but I seem to recall from the manual that Honda didn't add that feature until later. However, Boats.net shows the F/W separator with the wires even in the 2002 models. So I could definitely be wrong about that. Guess the old memory is not what it used to be.
 
chawk_man said:
Test the F/W separator when you get it. With separator right side up - no continuity on the wires. With separator upside down, full continuity. Make sure the float moves up and down easily inside the bowl.
Click to expand...

good tip.ill be sure to do that when I receive it.
thanks
 
Had a few more minutes today so I changed the high pressure filter and drained the vst. Any suggestions for a quality marine grease to lubricate the pivot points? When changing the high pressure fuel filter I had to remove the bolts holding the lower cowling to gain acesss. Where the two halves meet at the bottom there are two bolts and a cover plate assembly. My engine is missing “this”. In fact one of the bolts was broken off inside the hole. I was able to drill it out with left hand drill bits and a generous amount of silikroil. I can attach a picture tomorrow of exactly what I’m talking about. I’d like to order a replacement cover and bolts but have no idea what it’s called. Any help is appreciated.
 
See item # 23 at:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2004/BF225A4 LA/EXTENSION CASE/parts.html

That diagram is confusing on the correct bolt. I think they are the same size as the bolts that holds the top of the cowling, so take one of those and check it in the appropriate hole and measure it. The diagram gives the bolt sizes.

BTW - Go to "Boats.net", click on "Honda Marine", then click on "Honda Outboard Parts" then click on 2004", then scroll down to your model of 225 and that will open up parts diagrams for all the systems on the engine. You can order any parts from them. They tend to have the best prices and really fast shipping.

I use a good quality marine grease from NAPA. It's sort of iridescent blue.

Also, if you have a problem with getting the cowling back together properly (which often happens) send an e-mail to me and I will return a fix that involves installing a SS spring latch across the opening.
 
5C9C2D26-529D-490C-B4DF-1C83F039032E.jpgThanks Chawk. I’ll take a look tomorrow and check the bolt sizes. Here is a picture of what I described.
 
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I installed the new water separator on the engine today. I bench tested it for continuity as described and it tested out good. I pulled the thermostats off as well. They look highly corroded so I ordered new ones as well as the orings. The thermostat housing (looking into the block) has quite a bit of salt build up as well. Any special procedure or tricks to cleaning this or is scraping and vacuuming the go to method?
 
Yep - scrape & vacuum - CAREFULLY. When finished, treat with white vinegar or CLR. Let it sit for several hours, then flush.
 
chawk_man said:
Yep - scrape & vacuum - CAREFULLY. When finished, treat with white vinegar or CLR. Let it sit for several hours, then flush.
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I went ahead and scraped and vacuumed them out. The starboard side looks pretty good. The port side had quite a bit of salt deposits and build up inside. The walls have some deep pitting but nothing coroded thru the housing in any spots. Some of the heavy deposits I scraped off with a pick. I won’t be running the engine for another month (minimum) due to 2’ of snow still present. Should I put either the clr or vinigar in the housings to sit for that long?
 
That looks pretty bad. I would consider doing some grinding with a Dremel then filling in the big pits with something like JB Weld or similar. Don't know if long term exposure to CLR will cause any problem. I think you would fine if you use white vinegar.

I've not personally had this problem, but I know others on the forum have, so hopefully one of those folks will jump in.
 
chawk_man said:
That looks pretty bad. I would consider doing some grinding with a Dremel then filling in the big pits with something like JB Weld or similar. Don't know if long term exposure to CLR will cause any problem. I think you would fine if you use white vinegar.

I've not personally had this problem, but I know others on the forum have, so hopefully one of those folks will jump in.
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Considering she will will live out her remaining days in freshwater I’m not super concerned (perhaps ignorantly). So to confirm ...just pour white vinigar and let her soak for a month or so. When I pour it in it won’t drain out the bottom anywhere? Thanks
 
Update: I cleaned the salt/corrosion out of the thermostat housing. I ground the casting lightly with a burr to get to clean aluminum then etched it with muriatic acid. I then applied steel stick epoxy to the walls. Hopefully it will hold up for a while and considering the walls of the housing we’re not compromised it should be ok (I hope). I’m sure my next question has been best to death but what recommendations does everyone have regarding what engine oil to use? I’m leaning towards Mobile1 because I’ve had excellent luck with it in the past. And for lower unit oil I’m assuming OEM Honda? Thx
 
Yes, anti-sieze grease. However, that should really be necessary if the impeller is checked/changed every 200 hours or every year, which ever comes first, as recommended. O
 
Sounds like a good fix. Hopefully, it will hold.

Well, the "oil" argument crops up about once a year on this forum. And their are opinions all over the place.

First, given the age of that engine, I (and several shops I know in my area) recommend going up to SAE 25W-40 instead of the Honda-recommended SAE 10W-30, unless you operate in an exceptionally cold area.

My opinion on oil is as follows: If the engine is run year around, or nearly so, stick with a good grade of marine petroleum-based oil (API service category SJ or higher) and change the oil religiously every 100 hours or every season, whichever comes first. If engine sits up for long periods of time, then a synthetic-based oil MAY be better. Don't know for sure. If you decide to go with a synthetic, you should still change the oil every 100 hours.
 
chawk_man said:
Sounds like a good fix. Hopefully, it will hold.

Well, the "oil" argument crops up about once a year on this forum. And their are opinions all over the place.

First, given the age of that engine, I (and several shops I know in my area) recommend going up to SAE 25W-40 instead of the Honda-recommended SAE 10W-30, unless you operate in an exceptionally cold area.

My opinion on oil is as follows: If the engine is run year around, or nearly so, stick with a good grade of marine petroleum-based oil (API service category SJ or higher) and change the oil religiously every 100 hours or every season, whichever comes first. If engine sits up for long periods of time, then a synthetic-based oil MAY be better. Don't know for sure. If you decide to go with a synthetic, you should still change the oil every 100 hours.
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to adress a few of those scenarios I’ll start with the engine will not be run all year long. Estimate is May thru September and perhaps November but that’s a stretch. And historically I usually put 100 hours a year. We have a short boating season in Michigan and coupled with a young family it’s tough to use it as much as I’d like.
 
I think it should be ready to run soon. New fuel filters (low and high pressure) and a new Racor as well. VST is drained. New/used water separator, New thermostats. New water pump , pulled and inspected the plugs and they all looked good but will order some new ones soon. Checked the codes and cleared them (nothing alarming). I need to order a oil filter and fluids for the gear case and engine oil. Now I need to cross my fingers and hope she runs well. It’s always concerning when an engines maintenance history is unknown. While working on changing some of the item above I could see signs that someone has done some work in the past. Misc wires and fuel lines not correctly installed in their proper clamps.
 
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