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New owner of a 2004 BF225

Any recommendations on a replacement prop hub? I assume this is something I can change myself. I may order some replacement fuel lines on the engine and rigging tube. I’m certain it’s something simple but it’s giving me a run for the money.
 
Thanks Chawk. I sure appreciate everyone’s help with my issues. Moving forward should I continue with questions on this thread or should I start new threads as I go. For simplicity and less board clutter I assume keeping the 1 thread is best. Intermittent problems sure a pain to troubleshoot.
 
I would be inclined to start a new thread for specific issues. That would help others without having to wade thru these 125 posts.
 
I have not verified that yet but it’s on the list. Considering my problem is at higher rpms I assume the low pressure fuel pump is fine and the high pressure pump may be suspect. I assume the proper way of testing both is connecting a guage and using a long enough hose monitor both while running. For some reason my vapor separator does not have the test port on the side (of the high pressure filter cover) just on the front.
 
Mheltun said:
I have not verified that yet but it’s on the list. Considering my problem is at higher rpms I assume the low pressure fuel pump is fine and the high pressure pump may be suspect. I assume the proper way of testing both is connecting a guage and using a long enough hose monitor both while running. For some reason my vapor separator does not have the test port on the side (of the high pressure filter cover) just on the front.
Click to expand...

The load on the high pressure pump never changes. It runs full blast wide open 100% of the time. You should see a pressure problem even at idle if there is one. The symptoms starting at higher RPMs are indicative of not having enough fuel pressure even though it runs good at lower RPMs. You need to verify that because all sorts of mayhem could be causing the issue. Someone had a restriction in the fuel hose where the hose comes in through the cable/wiring/hose conduit thingy at the front of the engine. I have a gauge I leave installed on the HP Pump filter housing. You'll need to order this adapter to fit into the port on the filter housing. You can install any 1/8 npt fuel gauge you like using this adapter. You'll want a gauge that reads up to 50 psi minimum, 60 or 100 would be ideal.

Link to adapter to fit the gauge on the filter housing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008213NS...olid=2NMVY2WWW3WAA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Here is a link a video showing the gauge.https://www.facebook.com/clay.williams.50159/videos/2652055341686325/


I typed all that and didn't say that you won't need to see it while you are running.
 
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Thanks Nasty Wendy. I’ll look at getting that checked out stat. I’m unable to view your video links though. If possible would you mind emailing them ([email protected]) or texting them (9063704838)? I sure appreciate everyone’s help. I’ll get to the bottom of this yet. An added bonus (or silver lining) to all this work is I’ve gotten to know the engine fairly well. I cannot say I’ve ever been as familiar with the workings of any of my previous engines as this one.
 
Haha. I confess it’s been a frustrating introduction to outboard motors. I’m certain the issues are minor and more of a nuisance than an underlying major issue. I’m located in an area with not much service for these engines. Ironicly a new dealer just opened less than a mile from my house but my confidence with their techs is low. Perhaps given some time that will change but currently I’m more confident doing the work and troubleshooting myself (and on here). Someday I hope I’m in a position to purchase new and avoid the headaches for a period of time. The part that still stumps me is why did it start running well after I shut it down for a minute? I think I may have 2 issues that don’t compliment each other.
 
One detail I just remembered. The harness for the high pressure fuel pump had a crack in the plastic piece that is held to the vst cover with a small screw. Anyone have any idea whether this would cause an issue? It does not appear to be leaking any fuel. Due to the crack it may not be held in place as firmly as it should be.
 
I had some time this evening and opened up my rigging tube to take a look. The main power wire had a gash in it and by the looks it’s been there for some time. I fished some more of the extra power and ground lead inside of the vessel out towards the motor thru the rigging tube and opened the shielding up on the compromised wire. I was stunned.....I estimate the wire was functioning at 1/3 capacity best case. Almost 90% of a 4” section had severe corrosion and 50% of the wire had separated. What effect would this have on running? Considering the motor ran perfect each trip until dropping off of plane for the first time I’m curious if some water had got in at that time and created odd voltage spikes. Another symotom which seems consistent with my finding is when the running problem was present my fishfinder screen would pick up lots of interference.
 
Another theory is the bad section in the battery cable may have been heating up the fuel line and possibly boiling the fuel. The bubbles I saw perhaps were not from air ingestion and the fact it ran very well for 10-15 minutes then caused issues could be consistent with superheated fuel. I hope to crimp on new lugs this week sometime and hopefully get another water test before the weekend. 5B70F7DD-B236-4FCD-96ED-19E2D12F8948.jpg
 
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That is seriously ugly! Don't know about the super-heated fuel causing the bubbles - possible, I guess. But just fix one thing at a time and test so you know what fixed it.
 
The boiling fuel may be stretch. Is it possible that running the engine with the feed wire being this severely compromised could cause some electrical issues? Perhaps affect the fuel pumps ability to function as it should?
 
I think you'd smell things cooking if there was enough heat to boil the fuel - so I'm not sure about that theory. But that's a pretty horrible mess and your engine will thanks you for fixing it, good job you had enough spare cable to remove the damaged section.
 
Update: I repaired the faulty power cable in the rigging tube. Took it out for over an hour run tonite and it’s never ran better. Bubbles in the fuel bowl are gone. I’m convinced the battery cable was getting extremely hot and was vapor locking/boiling the fuel. Truthfully it could have very bad if the cable was not repaired. I shudder to think what a fire in the rigging tube would have done .
 
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A problem on my old cars is heat from exhaust manifolds overheating the nearby fuel line and causing vapor lock. Finding that kind of heat inside a rigging tube is remarkable.
I've had a battery cable go bad on my outboard, it only takes one small opening in the rubber shield and the copper cable inside blows up and turns into a green powder from corrosion.
Very lucky you found this.
 
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