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1993, 90 hp. 3cly. Won't start.

Kellygirl

New member
My starter was on the way out and kept on jamming. When I replaced same, it worked fine, but now the usual reliable starting motor would not start. I replaced the stator, trigger, and the cd box (the brain), to no avail. The coils seem fine, but now I am thinking the regulator. I hate to replace it, but I am running out of options. Any help would be appreciated. I am ready to bring it to the shop (God forbid).
 
The motor turns over? Just won't start?
What model# Serial # always helps to know what motor were working on??

Compression test?
Spark Test?

First: check the battery, weak slow turning battery might not get it turning fast enough??
Check the kill switch and see if it's working?
Then unhook the tachometer, sometimes the tach shorts internally and won't allow the motor to fire.
Unhook the regulator and see if that helps?

No Fire At All:
Disconnect the black/yellow kill wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Outboard ignition.com has test procedures for your motor.

Do these tests and get back to us.
 
Jerryjerry05, thanks for getting back to me. I see you are a major contributor to this forum, and seem very knowledgeable about mechanics. I tried four times to reply to you but my computer wouldn't let me. Right now, I think I am going to go with a new regulator/rectifier, as this is the only thing that I really didn't change yet.
I will let you know how it works out. Rather be safe than sorry. Thanks again. Still winter here, so I have some time to think it over.
 
Finally the weather broke and I was able to work on the engine. As planned, I replaced the regulator, so most of my 25 year old electrical parts have been replaced. I then pulled the black/yellow wire, and BINGO...the damn thing started and ran like new. Without a kill switch, I couldn't shut it off. Pulling plug wires did the trick. Now to trace down where that wire leads to and remedy that problem. Any ideas where it would lead?

Thanks Jerryjerr05, you were right on the money.
 
Try hooking the black/yellow up again?
Then get another kill switch???

Your kill switch, is it in the shifter? Or on the dash?
You might get some help if you spray WD-40 in the switch and around the slot where the kill lanyard fits??
Spray and push and turn and spray and push and turn.
Oh yea take the hot lead off the battery until your done with the spray.
 
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JerryJerry05: well the weather finally broke here in Jersey, and I was able to attack my motor again. Being that the motor is over 20 years old, and that I replaced most of the electrical system, I figured I would replace it all. In doing so I found that the new control box has two black and yellow (blk/yel) wires, of which only one is needed for the kill switch. After much trial and error, I found that you had to vacate the second black/yellow by capping it off and putting it to the side. BINGO. This did the trick, and the motor runs like new. Thanks for all your help. Greatly appreciated.
 
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