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84 Stringer tilt mechanism

Karl Evans

New member
I am resealing an entire 400 stringer that has been setting for many years. The tilt gearbox has been leaking water in since new. I changed oil every outing. I have set it up for chassis lube when it gets put back together this time with a Zerk fitting in the cover. My problem is there is a fibrous bushing, adjacent to the back to back seals that is worn out on one side and will allow the shaft to wallow around and defeat the seals. The part number for it is 0909501. It shows as not available, any where I look. I am somewhat of a sledgehammer machinist so I can make a bushing out of bronze or brass on my lathe. My dilemma is how to get the old bushing out? It appears to have an inside diameter the same as the back to back seals on their outside diameters. it may have a split in the original bushing. There is no way to get behind it to drive it out that I can see. I hate to take a chisel and attempt to drive it into the bushing and possibly scar the bore without asking the forum first.

Thanks, Karl
 
Are you sure it is a 400 i thought 1984 had the 800 drive? There should be a bushing between the seals and the thrust washer. Maybe grind the shaft smooth and make a bushing out of brass to fit the shaft item #6 part number 0909501
 
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That bushing should just pop right out toward the clutch. I had to replace one because the lift was cooking motors. The bushing also keeps the clutch gear and worm gear backlash correct. From fully down to fully up it should take no more than 3 1/2 seconds according to the book.
 
How did you drive it out? The edge of the bushing matches the diameter of the bore for the seals. There is a barely visible line in between.

Thanks, Karl
 
I bought my boat new in 84 or 85. After the first launch the oil in the lift looked like a milkshake. It got changed every launch thereafter. After I change it over to chassis lube this time I would like to put it to bed for good too. That's why I want all the seals new and not have a failure from the clutch shaft wallowing around.
 
I understood that the 800 drive (larger components) was for the higher power plants. I only have a 120 hp. The shaft was not in too bad of a shape. I polished it with crocus cloth and it looks new. I'm sure I can make the bushing, if I can figure out how to get the old one out.

Thanks, Karl
 
It just slid right out can you get a bite with a small sharp chizzle from the outside to shock it loose? If you ching the seal seat you can dress it with crocus and put a light bead of loctite when you press the seals in?
 
I am pretty sure that is a 800 intermediate housing if you look at the 1977 120 hp parts there is no bushing for the clutch shaft and a single seal. 1985 was the last year the 800s were produced and went to the cobra i believe.
 
I got the old bushing out. I was working from the left side because I had already installed my new seals. I was indecisive and thought I was going to ignore the bushing at one point. I used an injector bar for diesel engines. I found a small gap at the top of the bushing to get it started levering out. once I got vice grips on the edge, it came right out.

I'm speculating that the intermediate housings are the same for 400's or 800's. I understand my upper and lower housings, gears, etc. are somewhat smaller for the lighter duty engines. I am just working on my own boat, so I am no expert here. You mentioned that you had changed a bushing on a drive that had too much drag and was burning out lift motors. Were you able to source the bushing anywhere? I haven't been able to find one online as yet. I am going to Kaman Industrial today to see what brass bushing stock they have that I can make a bushing out of. I would rather put in their part since it seems to be made of hybrid materials. Probably for a reason. Making one is not my first choice.


Thanks, Karl
 
You were correct the difference between the 400 and 800 is the lower unit gear ratio. I assumed the difference was design change in the intermediate housing. The early models had the electric shift lower units.
 
The 4-cylinder drives were known as the 400 series and the V6/V8 drives were known as the 800 series. The differences between the 400 and 800 drives are in the lower gearcase. The 4-cylinder gearcase and gears are smaller in diameter than the V6/V8 gearcase and gears.
 
That was about what I thought. I am currently working on the lift mechanism in the intermediate drive. Would you know a source for the clutch shaft bushing? Part number 09099501? I have tried Ebay and got nothing. I'm not sure if it may be produced by an aftermarket company under a different part number.

Thanks, Karl
 
I received the bushing and installed it. My problem now is assembling the "hammer blow coupling" into the worm drive shaft in the inside stern of the boat and under my engine. Even reaching there is not possible with my aged body. I have the one side engaged to the worm drive shaft, I have been trying to reach the motor side segment into place with the spring in place by using a hemostat locked on the key. I gave up yesterday after many frustrating attempts with it falling apart. I glued it all together with RTV sealant before closing up last night. I am going to attempt to assemble it again this morning with rest and RTV holding everything on the motor side shell together. If anyone knows the magic of this, any help would be appreciated.


Thanks, Karl
 
I cant help you there the one i did was extremely difficult one handed had to use the battery compartment. The new coupler is the easy part then you need to install the motor with the washer and gasket. You need to be a 30 year old contortionist��
 
Are you talking about the [FONT=&quot]intermediate housing tilt clutch shaft assembly?
I have a 1985 that had 80/90 gear lube in it.
Did i understand you right , you put grease in you clutch assy?
Paul[/FONT]
 
Karl, have you tried Thick grease? and putting the slot horizontal?
I need to in stall the same thing, but haven't done it yet,
I am waiting for the trim motor.
Paul
 
That is exactly how I did it. The shaft was installed with its retainer bearing and half of the hammer blow coupling. I used JT6 (chassis lube) on the trim motor side on the little square drive tab. By the time I was sticking the motor half in I couldn't remember where the little hole was for the spring. I must have guessed right. (50% chance). Everything was gooped up with grease and I used a set of hemostats on the tab to insert it. I tried turning it to the right a few times with the hemostats and it would spring back, so I oriented the motor shaft approximate and put it in. Everything is working great. About 3 1/2 seconds going up. You could probably play with the hammer blow coupling and grease while you are waiting for the motor.
 
I take it the bushing took care of the shaft slop? Dont use automotive gear oil in the clutch assembly as it will lose its lube properties when water gets in. Just change the gearoil when you change oil in the drive with the same gearoil.
 
After opening and draining the tilt clutch on my OMC stringer outdrive I added 2 new seals and a new cover gasket. After lifting the drive once the motor locked. I loosed the cover plate a couple of turns per screw and tried it again. It worked so I tightened the cover screws to just snug and the tilt continued to work. Maybe I should have used 2 gaskets. Maybe I tightened the cover to much. In any case this has resolved the problem. I will report back to this thread if I have any more problems and resolutions with the tilt clutch.
 
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