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AQ 280 replacement parts.

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Josh huerter

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Hello, I had bought a glastron Carlson cv-18ss with a ford 302 and 280 outdrive and was wanting to go ahead and replace some parts in the outdrive before summer and so far I came up with replacing the pds bearing & seals, bellows, u joint, and I believe I read in somewhere there is a water line to. If anyone had any tips, where to get parts, part numbers, and anything else I need to replace why I’m messing with it that would be great. I figured the u joint could probably be crossed referenced with one you could get at the auto part store. Any help would be great this is my first stern drive all my others have been outboards. Thank you
 
Where are you located? there is a network of Volvo penta parts dealers, typically at marinas, but there is at least one non marina affiliated parts place here on the Jersey Shore. Many parts available on line. The hosting company for this forum , i.e. marineengine.com, sells parts and has some Volvo penta parts. Volvo penta parts not as easy to find as Merc parts, but not particularly difficult to find by any means.
 
Volvopentastore the 280 has a double bearing PDS you need to pull the engine to replace the bearings. Well worth the effort for piece of mind out there. Pull it apart then start ordering the parts needed.
 
Josh huerter said:
Hello, I had bought a glastron Carlson cv-18ss with a ford 302 and 280 outdrive and was wanting to go ahead and replace some parts in the outdrive before summer and so far I came up with replacing the pds bearing & seals, bellows, u joint, and I believe I read in somewhere there is a water line to. If anyone had any tips, where to get parts, part numbers, and anything else I need to replace why I’m messing with it that would be great. I figured the u joint could probably be crossed referenced with one you could get at the auto part store. Any help would be great this is my first stern drive all my others have been outboards. Thank you
Click to expand...

Josh, if you have the Ford engine with the 280 drive in an older Glastron, your PDS will be a single bearing unit. If so, the engine DOES NOT require removal for PDS removal and bearing replacement.
Also, your single bearing PDS will be equipped with a Pilot Nose of which requires a crankshaft pilot bushing. Make sure that there is a pilot bushing in the crankshaft!

These are industry standard bearings and seals, and can be purchased from a good bearing supplier.
The industry standard number will be on the bearing and on the seals.
Typically these would be a 6206 AFT end bearing and a 35x62x7mm single lip seal in a TCM or Timken brand.....
However...... Glastron did use a different bearing/seal on some models.... so I would remove them and match the p/ns prior to buying the new parts!

As for the bearing crosses (what you are calling U-joints), these will be industry standard Spicer 5-1306X...... very high quality!
This is an old Chrysler Automotive bearing cross application!
Try this:
https://www.mixerandplantparts.com/Dana-Spicer-5-1306X-Replacement-Universal-Joint-p/51306x.htm

These may no longer be available with the grease fitting in the apex area.


The correct bearing cross trunion "bearing-caps" will be internally clipped:

SPICER# 5-1306X (my preference)
(I cannot verify the following..... info passed on by another member)
ROCKFORD# K1306
DETROIT# 7260
NEAPCO# 1-6300 / 1-6301
PRECISION (MOOG)# 315G
TRW (FEDERAL MOGUL)# 20030 / 20030P

DO NOT use the type with the grease fitting in the bearing cap!


You will need to remove the transmission's bearing box (four hex head 3/8" cap screws) in order to remove the universal joint shaft's male yoke from the drive gear. (these cap screws will no doubt have some rust/corrosion on the threads)
Be sure to use Propane or Map Gas heat at the gear case where the thread inserts are housed. Heat will be your friend!
If you were to round out a cap screw hex head, you will be taking this unit to a machinist for some rather expensive milling machine work! :mad:


As for the drive shaft bellows, most any year AQ series stern drive bellows will work.
The OEM quality is a bit better than Sierra, but the Sierra 18-2744 will work just fine.
https://www.ebay.com/i/232636226008?chn=ps

DO NOT.... repeat... DO NOT use the the band clamps with the cuts for the worm screw!
Instead, Use or Re-use the OEM Euro style band clamps!

Store the boat with the stern drive fully down and aimed forward, and you will extend the lift of your bellows!

As for the Exhaust bellows...... they rarely go bad!

As for the hose, you may be asking about the S hose. This is also available through Sierra.
Be sure to replace the water neck fitting and the special "beaded gasket" while in there!

And again.... use only the Euro Style band clamps!




Here is an old ME.com thread that may be helpful.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?378363-Cross-from-a-Volvo-3860232-U-joint


Good luck with the project.



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kimcrwbr1 said:
Use the model number of the engine to look up parts?
Click to expand...

Glastron did their own thing. You'll see a "Glastron" tag on the transom shield, even though the drive is ALL Volvo Penta.
They also cast some of their own flywheel covers.
In other words, the engine model number may not help when looking at the Volvo Penta site.

None-the-less..... you can look at the MarinePartsEurope site.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx


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Thank you guys for the info. I have another question about props, I have a short hub prop and most websites say that v6’s and v8’s need to use the long hub props and I have not found the the exact reason why. My shaft is not threaded so I cannot change cones and from what I have read people say it’s not a good idea to drill and tap cause of rust issues
 
Thank you guys for the info. I have another question about props, I have a short hub prop and most websites say that v6’s and v8’s need to use the long hub props and I have not found the the exact reason why. My shaft is not threaded so I cannot change cones and from what I have read people say it’s not a good idea to drill and tap cause of rust issues
 
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Josh huerter said:
Thank you guys for the info. I have another question about props, I have a short hub prop and most websites say that v6’s and v8’s need to use the long hub props and I have not found the the exact reason why.
That is not necessarily true.

My shaft is not threaded so I cannot change cones and from what I have read people say it’s not a good idea to drill and tap cause of rust issues
That is correct! Once you break thru the plating, the carbon steel becomes exposed. If the keeper bolt was to become rusted in place, you will be in trouble.

There is no difference in the prop shafts for use between the short and/or long hub propellers.
What is different, is the way in which the spinner (i.e., 1 pc -vs- 2 pc spinner) holds the propeller to the shaft and the spinner's locking mechanism.
If the prop shaft is not internally threaded, you may have a lower unit that pre-dates the 280!

Click to expand...



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Drilling and tapping isn't a big deal. If you're uncomfortable doing it, a machine shop could take care of it in about 1/2 hr. As for the keeper bolt becoming rusted in place - i take my prop off about once a year and have never had a problem. If the bolt does break off, you can always go back to the short hub prop and the bendy tab.
https://tinyurl.com/h5wcgor
 
Hey thank you for the info. Do you know why people are changing to long hub props. A lot of website say all v6 and v8’s need to only use the long hub. If there is no real advantage than why not just stay whit the short hub. Just wondering, thank you.
 
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I've had both short hub and long hub drives, and have a few props left over from both. Comparing long and short hub props side by side, it appears as if the long hubs might have the edge on efficiency, i.e., lower slip, especially in the bigger pitch sizes.
 
Short hub props are hard to find unless you use expensive OEM. Solas long hubs are much less expensive and more readily available. I go through 2 or 3 props a season exploring shallow water.
 
Other than the long hub propeller requiring the internal threads (for the center locking bolt) and the AFT-most part of the 2-pc spinner, there is no AQ series lower gear unit short hub/long hub Prop Shaft!

This is a common misunderstanding.

Also...... if you were to drill and tap the Prop shaft, you will expose carbon steel.
I would suggest NOT doing this!



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