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1989 Johnson 20hp carb adjustment

Carb is rebuilt, but I may have to disassemble it again..... when I took it apart, there was no plastic washer under the main jet, so I didn't think about it when I put it back in and then I saw this washer (after the carb was back on the motor of course) in the remaining parts from the repair kit.
Do I need to put it in there? (As I said it was NOT there when I took it apart)
Anyhoo.... now I am working on the impeller replacement (I know... it takes forever when you depend on USPS for parts), and when I took the water pump off last night, I went "wow".... the impeller was completely constricted, like it had shrunk inside the housing, should have taken a pic, but it's gone now because I had to torch it to be able to pull it from the shaft! It was literally welded to the shaft with corrosion.
I could see traces of melted rubber inside the water pump housing, the rubber boot that fits around the water tube in the mid section was torn on top (probably letting water sip out back into the gear case), so I actually wonder how ANY amount of water was still able to make it through the pee hole as it did.
So given the condition of the pump, I ordered a complete water pump kit (I'll have an extra impeller which won't hurt) and now waiting for it.
Question: I cleaned the shaft nice and shiny on the wire brush wheel, but there is some visible pitting on the metal at the area where the pump was. Is this a problem?
Do I need a new shaft?

Oh, and one more question: On some clips I see the spacer (see link below) mounted on the pump cover, on some I don't. My pump didn't have one, but according to the fitment list on description of the part, it belongs to the motor.... Do I need to get one?

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/brp/B-0326692.html
 
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There are two different length spacers... the one you have pictured in that hyperlink is the standard one and most likely the one you need.

A slight bit of pitting of the driveshaft I wouldn't be concerned with UNLESS the pitting is where a bearing would be located.

The small circular washer that surrounds the brass high speed nozzle (not a jet) is absolutely needed. Without it excess fuel is drawn straight up that nozzle pathway un-metered.
 
joereeves said:
There are two different length spacers... the one you have pictured in that hyperlink is the standard one and most likely the one you need.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
What is its purpose by the way? (Asking because it wasn't there originally, so wondering if it may have impacted anything negatively)

joereeves said:
A slight bit of pitting of the driveshaft I wouldn't be concerned with UNLESS the pitting is where a bearing would be located.
Click to expand...
Good, and thanks. There are no bearings there.
 
OK, so I took the carb out again and placed that nylon washer under the float valve, and put back in. (It's a blast removing the carb on this motor compared to the PIA it is on the 9.9 hp), and as I am now waiting for the water pump to arrive, I thought I would give the foot a coat of paint or two as there is a few spots where paint is flaking off, and lo and behold, after removing the prop nut, the prop would not budge. No way to slide it off the splines... guess after these years of not being used, some corrosion set in there, and the darn thing won't come lose.
I know heat would do the trick, but I wanted to check with the wise and experienced first, to make sure I can safely apply heat with a torch without causing any damage?
I wouldn't want to damage a seal and have a leak as a result.....
 
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You should pull the prop and grease the splines annually as well as shoot grease in all the zerts. That said do not use heat on the prop. Time pressure and chemicals is the ticket. i prefer power steering fluid to dissolve corrosion. Pull the nut and drip it on the splines with the prop shaft facing straight up. Time is your friend here dont force it. You will be better of starting a new thread for each issue this ones is getting a bit confusing.
 
Heat may damage the rubber hub in the prop.----Your call on how to remove it.----Perhaps a visit to your friendly local shop as they might have the tools to do this.
 
Jupiter Dinghy said:
OK, so I took the carb out again and placed that nylon washer under the float valve, and put back in.
Click to expand...

If the carburetor body is metal... what you did is fine.

If the carburetor body is plastic, look closely at the surface that the brass float needle valve seat screws into. If that surface is completely flat... then what you did is still fine.

However, if that surface has a slightly raised portion (a few thousands) that resembles a washer, that's exactly what it is and no additional washer is needed nor warranted. Something to keep in mind.
 
joereeves said:
If the carburetor body is metal... what you did is fine.

If the carburetor body is plastic, look closely at the surface that the brass float needle valve seat screws into. If that surface is completely flat... then what you did is still fine.

However, if that surface has a slightly raised portion (a few thousands) that resembles a washer, that's exactly what it is and no additional washer is needed nor warranted. Something to keep in mind.
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe. It is the metal body.


kimcrwbr1 said:
just keep it wet it will eventually get there.
Click to expand...

I did, and it did. :)
After a good night of soaking (I also used PB blaster which seems to be better as far as evaporation).
Just tapped it gently with a rubber mallet, and it slid off the splines with no argument. :) Thanks for your call to patience!
 
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