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Need help to bring a Honda 225 back to life!

Zolander

New member
Hey, guys! Been a long time fan of the site, everyone here provides great information, good advice, and tips.

So, my dad has a 94 Mako 211 with a 2002-2003? Honda 225BF, serial # BAG-J 1001641, that has been sitting in the backyard, unused for the last 7 years! I used to use the boat frequently, and did most of the basic maintenance, but since I moved away, I guess, my dad hasn't been able to keep up with it or use it much at all. I recently moved back and found this out, so, my question is, what are all the steps (I'm sure there are many) that I need to take to bring this Honda back to life? I'm sure it won't be easy, but I have the time and some funds to put towards it, and I would love to get it running again. Any help, tips, advice, and information is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
-Zo
 
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How many hours on the engine? Saltwater or fresh water?

Off the top of my head...

1. Drain the entire fuel system including all the fuel in the tank, all fuel lines, the on board fuel/water separator, the VST, and the sump that the high pressure fuel pump sits in. While you are in there, clean or replace the screen at the bottom of the plastic holder for the fuel pump. See item # 29 at:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...03/BF225A3 LA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

2. You probably ought to remove the VST to clean it properly. If so, check the float and needle valve for cleanliness and proper operation and make sure it doesn't stick. See items #1 & 2 in the same diagram as above. On the VST, there is a set screw and an outlet that feeds into a clear plastic hose for draining the VST. Make sure the set screw is not locked up and the you can blow carb cleaner through the outlet to make sure it is clear.

3. Inspect/clean or replace the the HP pump fuel filter and strainer on top of the HP fuel pump - items 5 & 6 at:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF225A3 LA/PIPING/parts.html

4. Replace the filter element in the external fuel/water separator - assuming one is installed, which it should be.
5. Check the fuel line from the tank to the engine, especially the pump up bulb to make sure they are flexible and there are no cracks.
5. Change the HP fuel filter
5. Change the LP fuel filter
6. Change oil and filter
5. Change lower unit oil
6. Change water pump - not just the impeller, but the whole pump.
7. Check the three external anodes and make sure they're still good. If not, replace.
8. Apply new grease to throttle cables & wheels.
9. Apply new grease to all of the zirk fittings
10. Pull spark plugs and inspect. Replace if necessary, or if you are unsure of the hours on them. They are supposed to be good for 400 hours. When you re-install the plugs, lightly coat the threads with high-temp grease.
11. Check battery cables to make sure that the connectors are clean and tight, and that the cables are flexible and don't emit a cracking noise when they are flexed. If so, replace.
12. Check/clean all connectors to the starter.
13. Pull the three big multi-pin connectors to the ECU and inspect for any dirt or corrosion.
14. After you add new fuel to the tank, make sure that the check valve in the pump up bulb is working. The bulb should get hard after a bunch of squeezes.

Hopefully your fuel rails didn't hold any of the old fuel and remain clean.

And hopefully other folks will chime in with anything I missed.
 
Thanks, Chawk_man! I ordered those parts you recommended. You got a part number for the water pump? I drained out all 110 gallons of fuel from the the fuel tank today! Those old Makos have tons of fuel capacity. Apparently, my dad said he left it full and put stabilizer in there before letting it sit all those years...

The engine was exclusively used in saltwater and the hour meter shows 750.

Thanks again,
Zo
 
The water pump, which Honda calls PUMP KIT, IMPELLER is PN # 06193-ZY3-000 (Honda Code 7452329) $120.00 on Boats.net.

A precaution - these big Honda's overheat when on muffs, unless you have a LOT of water pressure on them, more than you can get out of a typical household water pipe. Best to do any testing in a large barrel or trash can.
 
Thanks for the tip! I ordered the pump kit, called the customer service at Boats.net and they edited my previous order very easily and hassle-free.

I will keep the updates coming! And I am sure more questions, too!

-zo
 
Roger that. I've found that Boats.net not only has the best prices around, but outstanding service and fast shipping.
 
So, since I am still waiting on parts, I decided to poke around under the cowling and see what the situation looks like. Lots of corrosion on the bolts and salt dusting everywhere. What's the best way, if at all, to upload photos on here? It's easier for me, and probably some of you to see what the problem is, if a picture is involved. This is going to be quite the journey...

Also, is there any way someone can tell me the engine's service history? My dad sucked at keeping up with the paperwork or maintenance records on this thing. Serial Number: BAG-J 1001 2003 Honda 225

Thanks again,
Zo
 
Honda Customer Service Customer Service number is 770-497-6400. They act as an Ombudsman to check into your concerns and can ID when your engine was made. BUT, that's a really early model.

These early models had some issues of which you should pay special attention to. I gleaned these from monitoring various Honda outboard forums and talking to my dealer when I first bought my engine:

* Engine block corrodes from the water jacket through to the outside in the V. This seems rare. Some early models

* Intermediate drive shaft bushing failure, mid-2007 and earlier, replace bearing and possibly upgraded intermediate cowling (but that's pricey). There are a couple good videos out there that shows you how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44ZaDzNck1I

* HO2 Sensor failure, 2007 and earlier (Service Bulletin #56), Install new exhaust tubes per SB#56. Send an e-mail to me if you need a copy of SB#56 at [email protected]

* HO2 Sensor failure (cracks internally), 1000001 - 1509999, Some engines. Replace HO2. Some units require new ECM per Service Bulletin#70. Again, if you need a copy of that SB, send an e-mail to me.

* Corrosion develops in thermostat housing area. Any in saltwater. Check annually and clean it up with vinegar or CLR.

If you do call customer service, see if they have a record of SB #56 being performed on that engine. Many were fixed under warranty.

Rust on the bolt heads is a never ending chore in saltwater. I use small wire brushes to clean them up and spray them with CRC 565 corrosion inhibitor. I respray when I pull my 100 hour maintenance schedule.

Uploading photos on this site is a pain. Photo must be in JPG, JPEG, or GIF format and on you computer. Then click on the "insert image" icon from the command bar at the top of your posting - it's the third icon from the right. That will open a window where you browse "your computer" for the image, select it, open it, and it will appear in the dialogue box, then upload. It will take a couple of tries to make it work.

DSC_0046 (Large).jpg
 
The easiest way I find to upload photos is to right click on the photo and "copy" and then right click in the body of your post and "paste".

One other thing I'd do is test and replace if necessary the thermostats. Clean out the housing areas while you are in there. I heat up some CLR and pour it in with a funnel and give it time to gravity feed through and then open your water hose full blast into the thermostat holes and flush it out really good.
 
And remember to video the start up once you've done the servicing just to show how good the Honda's are :D

Oh and you'll probably need a new battery!
 
And remember to video the start up once you've done the servicing just to show how good the Honda's are :D

Oh and you'll probably need a new battery!
Lolz yea new battery. I’d drain the oil and replace, then pull the hp filters and lp filters. Depending on how that looks then i’ll pull the vst. If not a quick extension hose to a 5 gallon container can help you at least start it. Then work your way throughthe fuel system on the boat. Honestly fuel sitting there is a huge no no and it will not be cheap. Even if you buy from boats.net it wont be cheap. So i’d do basic cheaper things first and carefully inspect everything concerned with just the starting. Once you start it and gain much needed hope then continue.
 
After sitting unused for 7 years there is s good chance some of the valves will be seized in their guides.
If they are, they will bend when you crank the engine over on the starter, as the pistons hit them. Then the cylinder heads need to be removed and it becomes expensive.
I would suggest very slowly turning the engine over by hand. If it turns over freely through say 6 revolutions without any obstruction you're lucky. Then proceed to start with starter motor, and idle till warmed up.
If any obstruction is felt, let us know. That is another story.

Bob
 
Quick update:

Sorry, for the long delay. The college semester started and I have been super busy, plus, it has literally rained every weekend since then, so being able to work on the engine was a no-go. This past Saturday it stayed dry enough to get a decent look at the engine. A friend and I turned over the engine by hand and surprisingly, or perhaps shockingly, it turned quite easily. I am hoping that is a very good sign and a bit of relief. Next weekend, provided it doesn't rain, will be attacking the rest of the things everyone suggested. I'll keep posting until it fires up or falls apart!



Thanks,
Zo
 
Hi Zo, when you get to the thermostats they will probably be corroded after so many years. There are many good threads here about how to clean up with CLR etc. If you are going to be manually scraping any of the corrosion, here's a tip that may help the clean up. Block off the water flow at the lower end. with the lower unit off you can stick a rag into the water supply tube, with lower unit on a pair of muffs with a closed hose valve may do the job. At this point your thermostats should be out. Make sure all power to the engine is turned off, as it will be getting wet and you do not want to short anything out. Stuff a rag into the air intake then cover the opening with a plastic bag. You don't want any water getting in there. With a hose attached to the flush port, fill with water then adjust the flow rate until you have a nice steady flow out of the port side thermostat housing. You can now scrape to your hearts content and any debris will flow up and out with the water rather than falling back into your engine. Once done on that side plug the hole with a rag and do the same on the STBD side. Afterwards, blow as much of the water away as you can with a blower or air compressor and let things dry out thoroughly before turning the power back on. In typing this, it sounds like an ordeal, but it worked well for me. I also found that by blowing water in one tstat opening and letting it flow out the other a lot of debris was cleared that didnt flush out the bottom. I did all this with the lower unit off. If your engine is covered in salt it may want one good wash down anyway and this would be a good time to do it. Afterwards, coat everything except belt and pulleys with a corrosion blocker. I like yahmashield. If there is anything critically wrong with what I did I would appreciate some feed back, so far it seems to have worked well.
 
Hey guys! I am back and actually working on the engine again. Here's a little update:

I drained the lower unit oil and everything looked normal thankfully. I didn't see any milky liquid that would indicate any water intrusion or metal shavings either. I removed the lower unit and replaced the water pump housing (everything), new gaskets, bolts, etc. As you can see there is a lot of salt deposits and some corrosion all over.

Water Pump Housing.jpg
Water Impeller.jpg
Water Pump Housing 2.jpg

Gasket.jpg
Lower Unit Shaft.jpg
Looking into Lower Unit.jpg

I greased up all the splines and seated everything properly. I didn't get a chance to put it back on the engine, but is there anything else I should do or check before I go ahead and reinstall it? Thanks for all the help, it is slowly coming along, but it's moving!

Zo
 
Also, check and possibly replace the mid-shaft bushing. I posted a video earlier in this thread showing how to do it.

Actually, that corrosion doesn't look too bad. I've seen a lot worse.
 
I like to grease the mating surface where the lower unit contacts the mid section. Probably goes without saying, but just in case, I grease just about every bolt I pull out before putting it back again. If your going to clean the raw water passages below the thermostats, might be nice to do with lower unit off.
 
700 hours you probably need a valve adjustment anyway. I would take off the covers to adjust the valves and make sure they move freely before turning over. maybe spray fogger into the cylinders for a day to let it lube up a bit.
 
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Got to the infamous vertical shaft bushing and it was nice enough to completely crumble for me! The washer was a little stuck in place so a few love taps from the hammer and flathead got it to pop out. The rubber part as you can see was completely torn apart and was disintegrating as I pulled it out. The metal lining was broken in several pieces. I didn’t do that, I swear! The new parts are on the way.

Zo
 
Here are some pictures from what I managed to do yesterday.

1. Looking into the Vertical Shaft Bushing (VSB) area there was tons of corrosion and if you look carefully the bushing was all warped on the inside.
Looking into Vertical Shaft Bushing.jpg

2. The aftermath of VSB removal
Vertical Shaft Bushing.jpg


3. I removed the Fuel/Water Separator and the ziplock bag trick helped a lot, because a good bit of rusty-looking fuel spilled out of it! The new one was installed easily.
Water Separator.jpg

4. Pulled the fuel line from the Fuel/Water Separator to the engine. Sucker was stiff. It kinda reminds me of a cobra getting ready to strike!

Fuel Line .jpg

After I did all of this, I was trimming the engine and it seems to be stuck in the up position. I can hear it trying to move but it isn't going back down. Any thoughts? Thanks again, guys!

Zo
 
Ahhh - are you sure the safety lock on the starboard side was swung back into place?

If so, then use a big flat blade screwdriver to open the manual valve on the port side and see if it will drop of its own weight. It should.
 
Hey guys!

Got a chance to work on the motor again today. First, I bought some tilt and trim fluid and filled up the reservoir. It was a little low and drank it up. It's working like a charm now after I bled out the air. Thanks for the help on that one, guys! I managed to change the oil and filter, both fuel filters, and started on the spark plugs. That's where I ran into the first real issue. The bottom bolt was a little rusty and after some work I freed it up. When I went to loosen the bottom ignition coil on the starboard side, the ignition coil boot just broke off! I saw that the spark plug tube was cracked and it was corroded pretty badly. I actually couldn't get it out at all today so that's where I had to stop. Anyone got any ideas? What should/could I do? Is a trip to the machine shop in my future? Also, I can't find a part number for the spark plug tube.


Just snapped right off.

Ignition Coil Boot.jpg


Cracked Spark Plug Tube with Ignition Coil Corroded in place
Spark Plug Tube.jpg


Other side of the same plug
Spark Plug 2.jpg




Thanks,
Zo
 
That's nasty. It reinforces the fact that plugs should be pulled and checked at every 100 hour maintenance period or every season, which ever comes first.

To get the rest of the coil out, I would try to spray some penetrating oil down in there, repeatedly, let it sit for a couple of hours, and take some channel lock pliers and try to move it back and forth to see if you can work it out. Then you are going to need to work on getting the spark plug out. Then you can more accurately access what you need to do with the spark plug tube.
 
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