No Fire 40hp Mercury

I was hoping someone could help me with a problem I have with my 1994 Mercury 40hp 4 cylinder 2 stroke. The motor ran great to the fishing hole, then would not start to come back, towed back in. I have no spark on my plugs, used an inline spark checker, nothing on any four plugs. I have a CDI Stator, Trigger, Voltage Reg, and Switch Box, used their manual to trouble shot and hit a dead end when it came to the yellow/black kill wire. Using the DC scale on DVM I get 0.006 volt when I switch the key on and off, but a full 12volt when I am turning the motor over. Took this reading at the bullet connector beside the starter solenoid, separated the connector and connected to side that is connected to the switch box. With the wire disconnected I still "did not" have spark on my plugs, but I wondered about reading voltage while the motor is cranking over. Does this sound correct, what should I try next?

Thanks for the help

The ignition system does not use 12 volts from the battery to make spark.----I do not believe you should have any voltage on the " kill circuit " wiring !

You will have a voltage on the blk/yell wire from the switchbox to key when cranking. Not cranking engine you should not have anything from key to switchbox but some meters will read a stray voltage of a couple of tenths....

12 volts from the battery should not be on the " kill circuit" on these.

Thank you for the help, I appreciate it. What would cause voltage in the kill circuit?

I found that one side of my stator is open, the blue wires, red wire are within specs. What can cause this? The stator itself looks very old and worn, very worn, it has been in service a long time. The stator is a CDI #174-5454k1, looks as if a magnet had rub one of the coils at one time, wondering if it is just worn out.

What do you think?

..."looks as if a magnet had rub one of the coils at one time"

Seen that several times on triples. The crank end play is excessive. You'll need another stator. Sorry.

Jeff

How can excessive crankplay rub one magnet???

I ordered another CDI 16amp Stator, hoping my switchbox did not die also. I had someone tell me the Stator has to mount a certain way, the only way I see to mount it is where the wires come out the front of the motor, any other position the wires rub the flywheel. Is this correct?

Yep.....

I got a new stator, but I am still waiting on a few parts to arrive. I checke the ohms my trigger assembly and it seems to have gone bad also, between purple and white I got 0.814k ohms and around the same with the brown and black wires, CDI manual states I should see 700-900 ohms with a OEM trigger. Will a bad stator cause the trigger assembly to go out? I had a friend suggest that when your stator goes out it is best to replace the stator, switch box and trigger assembly, and sometimes the voltage regulator, to insure you will not have problems. I ordered everything but the trigger assembly, looks like I need to order this now.

I figured it out, 0.814K = 814ohm, had a brain fart there. I got my motor running once again, new stator, switch box and voltage regulator.

What kind of battery should I run? The tech from CDI Electronics said there is only one battery made that will work, a Deka DP24. He was telling me all marine starting batteries now made will not boil off the extra charge and back feed and kill the stator and possibly the regulator. The Deka is a non-maintenance free battery and will not bake feed. Is there another brand out there or am I stuck with trying to find one of these?

Any conventional lead/acid marine battery should work just fine. Starting or Deep Cycle with at least 500 Cold Cranking Amps will work.

Stay away from AGM and Maintenance Free batteries. Neither of theses battery technologies were readily available when your motor was originally built. The regulator/rectifier was not designed for these.