Call for help, again. I’m putting the 3.0 back together.

1. [FONT=&quot]Before I tore the engine apart, the only way to crank the engine cold was with starter fluid. Also, the engine would die if let idle. Should I rebuild the carburetor, or put it back together and see if the condition is present? I’m not sure how likely the issue could have been caused by the problems with the head, head gasket, and manifold. [/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]Do I change the rotor, cap, and plug wires? I’ve come to the conclusion, based on my other thread, that I may as well. [/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]The flapper in the exhaust pipe is stuck open. Should I remove it? I know that it was removed by the manufacture in later application. [/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]Anything else?[/FONT]

Before I tore the engine apart, the only way to crank the engine cold was with starter fluid. Also, the engine would die if let idle. Should I rebuild the carburetor, or put it back together and see if the condition is present? I’m not sure how likely the issue could have been caused by the problems with the head, head gasket, and manifold.

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northernterritory said:

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Troubleshooting showed a blown head gasket and a cracked manifold. A leak down test showed air escaping out of the valves. A compression test showed horrible and inconsistent compression among the cylinders. A water jacket test showed a solid block without cracks. I took the head to a machine shop were they tested the head and found it wasn’t cracked, it was warped, and that many of the valves were not fully seating. They did a full head job and gave it back to me with an “it’s as good as new” send-off. I checked block’s top to make sure it was still flat, and it is. After putting the head back on I did a compression check; 140 psi across all cylinders.

Be sure that you understand that you will be adjusting the cam follower plunger depth as you make the adjustments. (you will NOT be adjusting valves!)
Use the tried and proven 4 stop procedure along with the OEM recommended rocker arm adjustment nut rotation after achieving ZERO rocker arm lash.
Begin with number 1 cylinder @ TDC on the C/S (compression stroke).
Adjust both intake and exhaust cam followers as per OEM instructions.
Next, roll the crankshaft around to the next cylinder in the firing order (#3) ..... and do same with those two cam followers.
The next cylinder will be #4 and lastly #2.


I am now reassembling. During this time, while it is already tore apart, I want to do any other repairs or maintenance that is needed. I have already purchased new belts and plugs. I could, however, use advice on what else I should do. Here are a few things that come to mind.

1. Before I tore the engine apart, the only way to crank the engine cold was with starter fluid. I'll assume that you meant "start the engine". Be cautious using starting fluid..... not good for any engine! Also, the engine would die if let idle. Should I rebuild the carburetor, or put it back together and see if the condition is present? I’m not sure how likely the issue could have been caused by the problems with the head, head gasket, and manifold. Use the tried and proven P of E..... process of elimination...... which means that you test/check one item and one item only at a time!
2. Do I change the rotor, cap, and plug wires? I’ve come to the conclusion, based on my other thread, that I may as well. Again..... I would suggest that you do the other work first! After that work proves to be satisfactory...... then move on to other items!
3. The flapper in the exhaust pipe is stuck open. Should I remove it? I know that it was removed by the manufacture in later application. I would make it functional again!
4. Anything else?

By the way, I sincerely appreciate you all’s help this far. I could not have gotten to the point I am without you.

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