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2002 BF225 RPMs and Power dropping off under load

The RIGHT STUFF is NO GOOD for gasoline! Engine/trans/gear/hydraulic oils-great...coolant/water-great!...Diesel fuel-great! But gasoline??..NO WAY! Gas eats it up for some reason and it won't last a week if in contact with the liquid. It does handle gas vapors well but not the liquid.

I found out the hard way.

Sorry that happened to you.
 
That's seriously nasty! I guess it clogged and overwhelmed your Racors. Think it through - that stuff had to get through the Racors, get through the LP fuel filter and the onboard foel/water separator to get to your VST. Then more had to get through the screen on the bottom of the fuel pump, the screen and filter past the fuel pump and clog up the fuel rail filter. I would keep looking if I were in your shoes.
 
jgmo said:
The RIGHT STUFF is NO GOOD for gasoline! Engine/trans/gear/hydraulic oils-great...coolant/water-great!...Diesel fuel-great! But gasoline??..NO WAY! Gas eats it up for some reason and it won't last a week if in contact with the liquid. It does handle gas vapors well but not the liquid.

I found out the hard way.

Sorry that happened to you.
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Didn't know that, thanks for the info.
 
NSDON said:
What about RTV or The Right Stuff?
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If I can't source gasket material then it'll come to RTV. I'm not in love with idea of having to cut open and clean and reseal every time I want/need to open it. Hopefully that's not a routine occurrence.
 
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Geesh, sorry about your fuel system...that rail fuel filter looked pretty bad. You’d be surprised what little amount od debris in the filters will cause havoc with engines. For gasket material go with a paper type, like Garlock Blue Guard 3000. Get 1/16” and it will last against anyhthing. Even the local auto shop has rolls of paper gasket... i call it paper but it’s more of a blue or green fiber material. Good luck!
 
I picked up two different materials from Advanced Auto Parts today. One is a fiber paper and the other is a rubberish material, both are rated for gasoline. I'm looking for Nitrile gasket material. I'll try a couple spots tomorrow for the nitrile and if I can't find it I'll use one of the materials I picked up today. I have a few days work getting everything else done so I should just order the nitrile stuff. That'll probably be what happens.
 
I found a source for Nitrile aka Buna N gasket material. I'm using 1/8" thick material to have a good bit of squish to seal better. I hope to make some progress today but the weather has to cooperate. It rained like a monsoon earlier.
 
Nasty Wendy said:
I found a source for Nitrile aka Buna N gasket material. I'm using 1/8" thick material to have a good bit of squish to seal better. I hope to make some progress today but the weather has to cooperate. It rained like a monsoon earlier.
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i know the feeling man, living in florida rains all the time. Just hang in there you will get it. I have encountered a lot if HP filter issues and what i did is to switch my racor cap to stainless steel and run 2 racor per engine. A 20micron and a 10micron. This is a new set up for mebut i hope it helps my situation. I will also be draining my fuel tanks and switching to 92octane ethanol free. Good luck on your venture.
 
Ok plan of attack is to get a clean source of fuel to the engines first so I'll pump fuel tank dry and clean out debris. Pull pick up tube and flush out through on board filter intake side. Remove fuel line connecting in line on board filters and flush out. Remove output side of on board filter to engine. Remove fuel line from intake side of Honda low pressure filter. Flush fuel through that section of line. Replace pick up tube and install new filters on board and new low pressure filter. Reconnect all lines.

Next at will be the cleaning of the fuel track from the low press filter back so I'll remove the Honda water alarm cup and pump fuel through the line to it until it comes out clean with the primer bulb. Reinstall water alarm cup. Disconnect line at input to LP pump and flush to there. Remove LP pump and clean internals and reinstall. Using primer bulb flush through to input of VST. Reinstall cleaned VST(all components cleaned, tested, and replaced if necessary) and put jumper wires on HP pump. Fill VST with primer bulb. Clean the fuel rails and screen filter. Check injector hat screens for debri and clean as needed. Reinstall injectors and fuel rail. Put intake back on and start the engine. Check for leaks. Put everything all the way back together and go catch a box full of fish. Well there will be a sea trial too. I needed to type this out to keep focus on the logical order these steps need to be taken in.

Jumper wires on pump is so I can check static fuel pressure while standing behind the engine.

All of this is because a minimum wage employee gave me the wrong material.....probably to get me out the store so he could snap book twitter with his friends.
 
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NSDON said:
If you are running twins, why isn't the other one acting up- or is it?
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That's why I said "one of" the culprits has been found. The other engine will get checked out and new filters installed as well. From the look of the low pressure filter this stuff didn't get past the on board filters. The HP filter was really dark but nothing clumpy nor was the fuel pump screen dark or clumpy.
 
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Fuel tank emptied cleaned and new Nitrile gaskets in place. Good progress for one day. Yep that is clean. Pic below.
 
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Fuel tank cleaned and buttoned up and fresh 40 gallons of fuel. Pick up tube and fuel line to filters cleaned. Tomorrow (hopefully) I'll finish flushing out the fuel lines up to the engine's low pressure filter and install new on board filters and start flushing out the fuel lines on the engine. Goal is to get the engine ready for the VST to be reinstalled.
 
Everything cleaned, purged, and ready for reassembly. Currently I have the fuel pump running to test the fuel pressure. Its been running nearly an hour now and the pressure is holding. I'm testing it in a relatively static environment as the only release of pressure is the constant discharge of the fuel pressure regulator. It is holding a between 60 and 75psi. It'll jump up to 75 ish psi when the battery charger kicks on to keep the battery voltage up. As long as the voltage is 12 or higher the pump has produced a steady 60+ psi. On a running engine this will fall because of fuel injectors firing and my return hose from the regulator is smaller than the one on the engine so I'm sure that has a little to do with the higher numbers. I'll reassemble the VST and put the fuel rail and VST back on the engine tomorrow.

A very interesting observation is that when the upper feed hole to the fuel pump housing is not submerged in fuel it does not hold steady pressure. It sucks air from there and pressure fluctuates and drops radically. This could be a clue. Maybe the trash was obstructing flow to the point that the high pressure pump sucked down the VST enough to expose the upper feed hole of the pump housing to air. ????? I am eagerly anticipating the next sea trial.
 
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This is encouraging. Fuel pressure is up to 44 psi at idle. I'm buttoning it all back up and doing a sea trial when wave heights come down from 6' in our LAKE.


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That's OUTSTANDING! Let us know how it goes. This has been quite a saga. Guess you now know more about that engine than you ever wanted to know., but that should give you high confidence.
 
I don't mind doing the work but to have to the same PIA job twice is not my idea of enjoyable. I'm just wanting this issue fixed so I can fish. I'll keep updating and once it's confirmed that this issue is resolved I'll make a new thread and give it a title that'll show up in searches for similar symptom issues and organize all the steps and info.
 
Believe me, you'll know exactly what size bolts go where and become a pro on the 2nd round...hope u dont need to, but thats the positive in this!
 
Skooter said:
Believe me, you'll know exactly what size bolts go where and become a pro on the 2nd round...hope u dont need to, but thats the positive in this!
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Yep. I've seen these outboards deepest darkest secrets. Had to tear one down to the mounting plate to remove damaged oil seals and replace. I ain't skeerd. Lol.
 
Have been watching this thread for a while, any updates. I have a pair of 2009s in which my port motor is acting just about the same as you have been reporting, am down to changing fuel pump and screen . was dropping pressure at 4000 rpm from about 35 psi to 10 so am not sure if it was the screen restriction or the pump. would really lie t see some one sort this out.
 
ringo said:
Have been watching this thread for a while, any updates. I have a pair of 2009s in which my port motor is acting just about the same as you have been reporting, am down to changing fuel pump and screen . was dropping pressure at 4000 rpm from about 35 psi to 10 so am not sure if it was the screen restriction or the pump. would really lie t see some one sort this out.
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I kinda took a little break from it to get a few other things done around the house. Then I went fishing this past weekend with my friends. I'll be back on it shortly.

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Ringo - You might want to start a new thread and provide details. Right off the top on my head, with a fuel pressure drop like that, I suspect you might be sucking in air into a fuel line somewhere in front of the HP fuel pump.
 
Waiting on sea trial weather. There are 4 footers in my test area so I'll wait for calmer seas. I think it should be down to 2 footers tomorrow. I can't wait to see what I've accomplished or if what I've accomplished actually solved the problem.
 
The problem is gone!!!!! Just returned from the sea trial and hallelujah the issue is gone. Now I'll make a new thread and repost all the stuff in this one with the extra stuff omitted. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. So now its oil changes, wash, wax and back into its storage shed at the marina.:)
 
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