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Engine alignment

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202Baja

Member
I have a 2005 5.0mpi alpha 1 gen 2 that's all original, meaning nothing's been changed since new. I replaced the manifolds and risers and tune up parts. Now I'm going to start on the bellows and gimbel. I pulled the outdrive (has not ever been pulled) and checked alignment with the old gimbel and the alignment tool only goes in the coupler about 1" and stops. I'm getting deeper grease marks on top of the bar. My first question of probably many is, should I align the engine to the old bearing or just replace it and go from there . Thanks
 
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202Baja said:
I have a 2005 5.0mpi alpha 1 gen 2 that's all original, meaning nothing's been changed since new. I replaced the manifolds and risers and tune up parts. Now I'm going to start on the bellows and gimbel.
That would be Gimbal Bearing!


I pulled the outdrive (has not ever been pulled) and checked alignment with the old gimbel bearing and the alignment tool only goes in the coupler about 1" and stops. I'm getting deeper grease marks on top of the bar.
That would typically indicate that the front area of the engine is low.

My first question................ should I align the engine to the old bearing or just replace it and go from there .
The Gimbal Bearing oscillates in a radial pattern. When one is first installed, the upper gear unit's "propeller shaft" (or the alignment tool) must first align the center portion of the Gimbal Bearing..... then it will slip nicely into the drive coupler.
Unless it is terribly damaged, the alignment will be the same whether the bearing is New or Old.
Click to expand...

This image will help you understand the geometry regarding the correct and incorrect drive coupler alignment.
 

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Thanks, I guess I could work on the alignment while I'm waiting on parts. Should I go with OEM parts or is there an acceptable aftermarket brand ?
 
202Baja said:
Thanks, I guess I could work on the alignment while I'm waiting on parts. Should I go with OEM parts or is there an acceptable aftermarket brand ?
Click to expand...
The difference between the OEM and Aftermarket is not that much. OEM is always better. The new OEM Quicksilver kit has a molded water hose now.

Put all the parts in and then do your alignment.

Once you get the new bearing in get it aligned with the alignment bar....Then you will know if the engine needs adjustment.
It is possible to knock the bearing alignment out when taking off the drive.
 
Is the 30-803099T1 kit the one I need ? The pics on eBay look like it has a straight water hose. Also I guess all the gimbal bearings are sealed/non serviceable now. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
 
It is possible that it is just an old picture. The last kit I purchased had the new molded water hose.

QuickSilver kits contain the non serviceable bearing. Change your lower shift cable too.
 
Once you get the new bearing in get it aligned with the alignment bar....Then you will know if the engine needs adjustment.
It is possible to knock the bearing alignment out when taking off the drive.
Click to expand...

202Baja, just to add a bit of clarity;
The bearing itself may need to be aligned (with the alignment bar) prior to the alignment bar even reaching and/or penetrating the drive coupler.
In other words, the bearing may first need to be oscillated some before the bar can penetrate the coupler splines.
DO NOT raise or lower the engine until the bar penetrates the bearing far enough to reach and begin entering the drive coupler!

Once the bar begins to enter the coupler splines, you will then be able to take your reading. The reading will indicate whether or not the engine needs to be raised or lowered.

Here is an image that I put together several years ago.

And be grateful that you are not replacing one of these giant bearings! :D
 

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Ok, gimbal housing and bearing removed, just for grins i took my alignment bar (with no gimbal bearing installed) and slid it all the way in the coupler. The bar is compressing the bottom half of the grease seal, which I guess means the front of the engine is too high. I haven't adjusted the engine, but the front mounts are already almost as low as thell go. The u joints and old gimbal were in good shape. Don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions ? Thanks
 
My boat was built at the same time the rear mounts were redesigned, Is it possible that they didn't install the stainless washers (per 90-865505001) and just bottomed out the front mounts and called it good ?
 
202Baja said:
My boat was built at the same time the rear mounts were redesigned, Is it possible that they didn't install the stainless washers (per 90-865505001) and just bottomed out the front mounts and called it good ?
Click to expand...

Not possible. With out the spring washers you would never get the drive on....

The rear mounts just sag over time.

What condition is the coupler in?
 
Coupler and gimbal were fine. According to mercruiser the rear mounts in mine are the new design with no spring washer. Just wondering if maybe I could use spacer kit 12-892619a01. Just looking for any option other than pulling the engine just to see if the mounts are bad.
 
If the mounts are of the new design (knurled bottom and no spring spacer) They can still sag.

Pulling the engine is easy as long as you do not have to disassemble half of the boat. If you can get to the bell housing mounts you can do a simple comparison between the left and right side. Measure from the head of the mount bolt straight down to the bell housing. If the measurements are not the same on both sides, your rear mount has sagged. One side usually sags more than the other.
 
Thanks, I'm not opposed to pulling the engine, just hate to do it without knowing for sure that is the problem. I'll check the measurements. Wish there was an exact measurement on the gap between the bellhousing and transom plate on a new install. Crummy weather on the way, so this little project might be on hold. Thank's for helping out a newby to i/o.
 
202Baja said:
Thanks, I'm not opposed to pulling the engine, just hate to do it without knowing for sure that is the problem. I'll check the measurements. Wish there was an exact measurement on the gap between the bellhousing and transom plate on a new install. Crummy weather on the way, so this little project might be on hold. Thank's for helping out a newby to i/o.
Click to expand...

Simply put, if the mounts are more than 5-7 years old......they have sagged.
 
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