Bf225 2012 engine alarm

Hi guys
I have 225 2012 outboards , starboard side engine sound 1 sec on 1 sec off alarm , no lights flashing , my Garmin says warning level two . ????
It starts after a few minutes of idling.....
Have cleaned fuel filter 1st time had a little touch of water in it(very little).
After I turn engine of start it again , alarm will sound again after a few minutes.
After that I can re start go for a quick ride , then it right for the rest of the day . ( until next morning )
any ideas ?
Thanks jason
ps have 4 lights on dash
charging is ok
temp is ok
all dash board gauges seem ok
After going for a run I can leave it for 3 hrs then start it and no alarm .
left overnight the alarm will sound .
Ive reset fault codes by bridging lime to black and 5 on / off on lanyard .
helpplease
thanks

Anyone , any ideas ?

If you happy its not overheating i can put it down 2 oil pressure as you have a low pressure sensor and high pressure or it could be the oil control valve.

Oil pressure you think !
After starting the third time the alarm does not sound !
Does that tell you anything ? And then won't return for the rest of the day !
do u think sensor ? Or the actual oil pressure ?
Should I get a Honda tech down ? Just worried about cost .
thanks for your reply
jason

Low oil pressure or overheating gives off a continuous alarm.

The long intermittent alarm can be a problem with the fuel injection system (PGM-FI) or the alternator.

A short intermittent alarm is water in the fuel water separator, or a malfunction of the float switch in the fuel water separator. This alarm is the only one that does not show up on the four light key switch. It will look normal with the green oil light on and the three red fault lights off.

So let's address that first because I'm not sure whether the intermittent alarm is long or short. So first take a look at the onboard fuel/water separator. You want to clean it out and test it. That is the first filter on the fuel line as it comes into the engine. It sits just under the ECU. There will be two wires coming out of the bottom. Disconnect the plug the wires go to. Remove it from it's holder (called a suspension strap), remove the bowl, and clean the bowl and shake out any liquid in the filter. Make sure the float ring moves up and down freely. Reassemble, making sure that the O ring is tight and sealed. Test continuity at the two prong plug coming from the bowl. When the float ring is down, there should be zero continuity. Turn it upside down and there should be continuity. The float ring should move smoothly inside the bowl and show no signs of sticking. When you reinstall, make sure that the fuel exit tube is lined up with the "I" on the rubber suspension holder.

If that doesn't fix the problem, come back at us with more information.

Hi mate
I actually have changed that filter/ separator with a spare one I had off another set of motors I have . Unfortunately same problem . Haven't checked continuity yet , will today .
The sound alarm is about 1 sec on 1 sec off .... I will sound record it . I also have a seperate water/fuel seperator before it enters the motor ( seems free of water ) .
It takes about 3 to five minutes to sound from cold start , then the same , maybe 3 minutes the second time , then if I start again it is on ( strange)
my fuel tanks are underfloor but full ...
i have two motors on boat so could try swapping anything if needed ( boat lives in the water ) serviced every 100 to 150 hrs ( 2200 hrs showing).
someone said it could be play in the crank / knock sensor? ( I hope not , it's not making any funny noises ) .
Thanks jason

I haven't reset the service reminder on the tachometer (as I don't know how )but I don't think that would be doing it .
Thenks

Hi again
You are right PGM-F1 ( shows up on Garmin)
where do I go from here ?
Thanks CHawk 25 DLX, you sure know your stuff !
Cheers Jason

OK, I assumed you checked continuity on the fuel/water separator float and the float is operating smoothly. Also, make sure the connector to the float switch is clean and making good contact. BTW, a lot of owners confuse the on board fuel/water separator with the low pressure fuel filter - they are right next to each other. Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing. The fuel/water separator will have the wires coming out of the bottom of it.

If alarm is "long intermittent" then one of your red key switch lights should be on continuously, or blinking. Specifically, if it's the fuel injection system, then the red MIL light (malfunction indicator light or check engine light) should be coming on. If not, then it's a strange issue.

Your next step is to pull fault codes. The procedure has been posted many times on this forum, but if you need a copy of that procedure and a list showing what the fault codes mean, send an e-mail to me at [email protected]. It sounds like you may have already tried to pull the fault codes (when you did the reset), but you did not report any. Were there any?

Can't help you with resetting the service reminder. I don't have one on my setup.

BTW - I am not a marine mechanic - just an owner who has taken a deep interest in doing my own work on these engines.

Reading my manual and compared your description about 1 sec on 1 sec off is wot my manual describes too indicated by dots a black dot for on a white dot for off intermittent prolong and it points to Alternator.

If that's the case, the alternator light on your four-light key switch should be showing when the alarm sounds.

No lights flashing , only the green light on , when alarm sounds nothing changes with the lights . And yes the alternator gauge says it's charging , and yes we are talking about the right filter with the wires on it . The Garmin says warning level 2 ... PGM-F1 which I thought you said would be related to fuel injection . How ever there is no lights flashing at all ....
stumped ....
thanks

Jason,

I just e-mailed you the procedure for pulling fault codes, a doc saying what the codes mean, and a doc showing the meaning of various alarm/key switch light combinations. I also viewed the video. I also noted the "check engine" symbol on your Garmin screen.

I'm stumped also. If you get an intermittent alarm like the one I heard on the video, then there should be one or more red lights on the key switch coming on or blinking.

Question 1: When you first turn on the key switch, do all four lights briefly come on, then the alternator light stays on until you start the engine. Then the green oil pressure light comes on and the red alternator light goes off. If that doesn't happen, then there is a possibility that the NMEA 2000 signal from the engine to your Garmin COULD be interfering with the proper operation of the of the key switch lights. Just a SWAG.

Question 2: Are there two alarms I'm hearing on that video - one from the key switch and one from the Garmin?

Question 3: When is the last time you changed the high pressure fuel filter? These engines are extremely sensitive to that filter being really clean and in good shape. Many of the performance issues with the 200 and 225 go back to that filter. If you did change it recently, make sure there are no leaks when you pressurize the fuel system by turning on the key switch. Fuel pressure out of specs can throw an alarm.

I'll be interested to see if you get any fault codes when you do the procedure I sent.

No fault codes ( maybe MIL light I'll check ) the high pressure fuel filer , is that the one a few inches in front of the other ? ( if so I replaced it )
only one alarm . Been connected for a long time but I'll disconnect the nmea cable to see if that makes a difference .
Yesterday I started engine , idled for 30 sec put in gear crises out of the marina , no alarm ! . I don't know , we will see how it's feeling later today , and check those few things

The high pressure fuel filter is on the back of the engine and sits on top of the high pressure fuel pump.

See item 36 at: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H.../BF225AK0 XCA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

You must loosen or remove the upper cowling to get to it.
• Open up both sides of the upper cowling by first removing the two bolts under the cover at the rear of the engine – those two below the exhaust outlet.
• Remove the six or so bolts on each half of the top of the cowling.
• Peel back each side of the cowling so it clears the exhaust outlets.
• There sitting in front of the HP fuel filter you will see the IAB control diaphragm. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm. The diaphragm is held in place by two Phillips head screws that you must remove to get to the HP fuel filter.
• Remove the three bolts holding the cover to the filer and remove the filter to inspect and change. You will need a new O ring to replace to old one. And don't forget to re-install the spring on the bottom of the filter canister.

While you are there you should check the intake air bypass control to make sure it is working properly. Send an e-mail to me at [email protected] and I'll send you the procedure for doing that.

Turns out to be o2 sensor , bulbs might be gone , like CHawk 25 DLX said it could be . Strange how it sent message to my garmin saying pgm FI.
Anyway thanks for all the help
Jason

OK on the HO2 sensor, but how did you determine that? Did you get a fault code "1"? If so, that could also be be triggered by a misfiring spark plug, a failing coil, or fuel pressure out of specifications. It could also be bad wire or corroded connector contacts to the HO2 sensor. I would try to eliminate those issues before shelling out the dough for a new HO2 sensor.

Hi mate
thankyou for your replies. I swapped with my other engine , now that one alarms .maybe a stupid question , but what does it actually do ?
My friend has one he can give me , looks well used , maybe I can try that one .
I think the 2012 model had a problem with them . Maybe I have to be a bit slower whilst reversing.
I was wondering if I could somehow bypass them so alarm doesn’t trigger .
My engines have 2000 hours and are used weekly .
thanks again for your time