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Evinrude 90HP VRO hard starting after storage - then excessive smoke until hot

L

Lenb

New member
I have an Evinrude 90HP VRO outboard (1998 model, E90ELECM) that is very difficult to start after a few weeks in storage. After say an hour of starting attempts, it finally starts and smokes excessively for about 10 minutes until hot. Then it runs fine. After that it starts immediately with no smoke and runs fine, even when cold and on the next day.

I have followed the normal starting procedure (pressing the priming bulb untill firm and pressing the primer solenoid during cranking) with little success after prolonged storage. I have tried spraying “Start you bastard” into the carby throats... the engine fires immediately and runs until all of the ether is used up and then stops. I have cleaned the plugs, drained old fuel out of the line to the VRO fuel input. I have temporarily disconnected the oil line during storage and installed a tap in the fuel line to the tank in order to prevent fuel gravitating back to the tank which could cause oil being sucked into the fuel compartment of the VRO. I have also totally disconnected the VRO functionality and used a 50:1 fuel mixture in the tank.... same startin problem.

Can anyone shed any light on how to fix this problem?
 
Replace the cap on oil tank....The duckbill check valve fails in cap and oil tank pressurizes and slowly fills the carbs with oil.
 
I also thought that there might be pressure build up in the oil tank so I have already tried leaving the oil tank cap unscrewed slightly. This did not solve the problem. I checked that the valve on the primer solenoid is in the correct position. I presume that when in the correct position pressing the primer bulb results in a solid hard feel with no fuel being passed into the carby throats when sqeezed. No luck. Any other suggestions greatly appreciated. Could the crankcase somehow get excessive oil in it and somehow need clearing?
 
I have temporarily disconnected the oil line during storage
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Is it still disconnected???
I have also totally disconnected the VRO functionality and used a 50:1 fuel mixture in the tank.... same startin problem.
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Is VRO still disconnected or did you reconnect after using 50:1 mix??? Is it stored tilted up or down? Is there a puddle under prop/skeg where its stored? Built in or portable tank?
 
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I temporarily disconnected the oil line just prior to storage to see if oil being sucked from the oil reseroir during storage was the cause of the problem. Then after the storage period, i reconnected the oil line and when I went to start the motor up after storage I had the same starting problem. So I realised that temporary disconnection of the oil line made no difference.

My next attempt to solve this problem was to totally dissable the VRO functionality and run the motor using a 50:1 mix in the petrol tank. So i ran the motor like this for a while and then it was in storage for a while (with the VRO totally disabled). After storage I went to start the motor with the problem still being there. So I concluded that the VRO was not the problem. Consequently I have re-enabled the VRO with problem still being there. I am starting to think that the problem has something to do with oil accumulating in the lower part of the crankcase during storage and oiling up the combustion chambers when starting attempts are made after storage. Does this make any sense? I normally store the motor vertical with the leg being down.
 
Usually if you have a flooding problem it will have fuel/oil leak down the exhaust and run out the prop/skeg. Does the storage area have high temperature or engine exposed to direct sunlight?
 
Storage area is in shade and not exposed to high temperatures. Is there an easy to flush all the old oil / fuel mixture out of the VRO / pipes leading to the carbies / inlet manifolds / carbies etc. Perhaps i need to do that after long term storage just before i try to restart the motor?
 
Have you tested the primer solenoid valve, yes or no ?---Is the primer valve opening and injecting fuel during cranking , yes or no ?------After all this cranking you may want to inspect the starter too.
 
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You've blocked all problems that could exist between the VRO and the fuel supply... BUT... apparently have not thought about internal problems that might exist with the VRO. I'm assuming that your engine ran fine for quite some time via that same VRO?

Should you have developed a habit of running the engine out of fuel before putting it in storage... that will allow the VRO to fill the carburetors will raw oil as the oil side of the VRO is still functional. In assuming that you DO NOT make this mistake..................

The possibility exists that the VRO is at the very slight edge of failure in that a slight leakage exists in the oil side of it. Keeping in mind that there is no air in the VRO, that could possibly allow the oil supply in the VRO somehow seep, over a period of time, over into the gasoline side to result in the problem you describe.

Is a repair kit available for the VRO on that 1998 model?
 
When the VRO stops pumping fuel the wee piston on the oil side is still pumping a wee bit of oil.-----That oil might be added to to the FUEL that is in the carburetor.------The motor would pull the fuel with extra oil out of the bowl until bowl is empty.-----Motor stops , VRO stops and bowl is empty.
 
I also suspected a leaky valve in the VRO / fuel pump and that oil is being siphoned back through the fuel part of the VRO / fuel pump and even back into the fuel line (after all the fuel tank is at a lower level that the oil tank). That why I installed (about 5 years ago) an inline tap in the fuel line which I turned off during storage. Perhaps the inline tap is not acting as a complete stop and leaks slightly over a period of time (I did check it a couple of times and it seemed fine to me). Anyway that solution didn’t seem to work as the problem was still there after installing that tap.

As I said previously, I then disconnected the VRO oil input/functionality completely (with a 50:1 tank mix instead). I still had difficulty starting after storage (with the VRO still being disconnected). As there was still heaps of smoke until the engine warmed up, I concluded that the oil build up was in the crankcase and normal behaviour and this oil settled into the carbies during storage (motor not started for anywhere between 2 to 4 months) Consequently I concluded that the VRO was not the problem so I reinstalled the VRO functionality (2 years ago).

As all four carbies have the same problem, i concluded that it was not a carby needle / seat problem / etc. I have checked the primer solenoid and it works fine.

So my thoughts are to perhaps drain the VRO, primer solenoid and fuel lines to the manifolds, of oil mixed fuel before I attempt starting next after storage (hopefully straight after I get a brilliant and easy solution from the members of this forum). Any suggestions as to how best to do this would be greatly appreciated.

As I said the motor runs fine after this initial startup following storage. Unfortunately as it takes a couple of months of storage to see this problem, testing multiple things becomes a long drawn out process. Would be nice to shortcut the faultfinding process.
 
Whenever should you get around to rebuilding or replacing that VRO... we'd be interested in hearing about the results.

Yes, I.m aware that you disconnected the VRO at one time and still had a oil problem ... hard starting, lots of smoke, etc etc. There's only one area that would still have oil accessible to the engine, carburetors, whatever... and that's the oil chamber of the VRO... my line of thought from experiences with the VRO since day one.

One remaining thought, as unlikely and far fetched as it might be, is that "all" of the gasoline in the engines fuel system evaporates, leaving the raw oil remaining to load up the fuel passageways. However, if that was possible, I would think that many others would be having the same problem.

Hopefully some other member has the answer to your problem... I wish you luck.
 
I took the boat out of storage today and noticed a big puddle of oil just below the leg and signs that the oil had run down the leg from the motor. It looks like a lot of oil has been drained out. This time the leg had been tilted during storage. Given that the oil tank cap had been loose (so there could not have been any pressure build up in the oil tank forcing the oil up the oil line), its hard to understand how all that oil got there. Is there a one way valve in the oil line within the oil tank so that the oil within the oil line expands during temperature changes and this forces the oil up or is this oil from the carbies due to the leg being tilted? Any suggestions?
 
I tried to start the motor but, as per before, it only runs while “start you bustard” is sprayed into the carby throaths. I disconneted the fuel pipes running to the manifold only to find they were full of oil; primer solenoid was also full of oil. I drained the oil out of these using the primer bulb (and used new fuel) but now the motor only fires now and then without the ether spray. Smoke colour is blue. Given the one way valve in oil primer bulb in the oil line and the oil valve in the VRO, I now suspect the oil is pushed into the fuel solenoid / carbies due to expansion / contraction (due to temperature changes) of the oil in the oil line from the oil resevoir during long periods of storage? I am supprised that no one else has experienced this problem.

Looks like i am now going to have to pull the carbies to bits to drain the oil out of them as well. I could not see a drain sctew in the float chamber assembly. Is there any easy way of draining them without having to pull them to bits? Looks like a lot of pipes and linkages need to be removed in order to get all 4 carbies out.
 
VRO is leaking internally or oil tank cap is defective. There are drain screws on float bowls, you need to only to remove one on each carb and pump bulb to flush. Make sure to flush lower cowl before starting.
 
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Removed drain screw on each carby. They were also all full of oil. After flushing with fresh fuel, motor now runs great. I have now put an inline tap in the oil line to the VRO on the motor side of the oil primer bulb. This will stop the possibility of any oil being forced up into the VRO/primer solenoid/carbies during long term motor storage due to temperature cycling / oil expansion and contraction of oil in the oil line.
 
Lenb said:
Removed drain screw on each carby. They were also all full of oil. After flushing with fresh fuel, motor now runs great. I have now put an inline tap in the oil line to the VRO on the motor side of the oil primer bulb. This will stop the possibility of any oil being forced up into the VRO/primer solenoid/carbies during long term motor storage due to temperature cycling / oil expansion and contraction of oil in the oil line.
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I have the exact same problem you have/had. Can you tell me what shutoff valve you used on the oil line?
I guess I need to do the same to mine.

Thanks
I
 
jshaheen said:
I have the exact same problem you have/had. Can you tell me what shutoff valve you used on the oil line? I guess I need to do the same to mine.Thanks I
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I too have the same problem 1999 90HP Johnson - albeit just at the beginning of the season. Far from being a boat mechanic - I'd pass this along to the guy that has done some work on my boat. In the meantime is there a way to lessen the impact of this in a couple of weeks when I put boat in water (whats the easiest way to remove that excessive oil). Last season it was an embarassing easy 20 mins getting it to start and idle properly, while getting scornful looks from all the folks standing around / fishing at the launch for all the smoke and perceived environmental damage Thanks
 
Start it at home on a hose.-----If motor is hard to start and smokes for 20 minutes there is something wrong.-----And what is your starting procedure ?
 
racerone said:
Start it at home on a hose.-----If motor is hard to start and smokes for 20 minutes there is something wrong.-----And what is your starting procedure ?
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Thanks for your reply to clarify - its takes about 20 mins to get it to a point where its idling properly and smoke has subsided Starting at home is worse as its a residential neighbourhood. The smoke is excessive. My neighbour calls the bylaw officer if the boat is stored in the driveway for more than a couple of weeks as it is Regarding starting procedure - 1) Squeeze the primer bulb (it doesn't get solid hard unlike my other o/b motor though...hmm...but I think its always been like that) 2) The oil fill bulb is always hard - no action there 3) Turn key / hold in to prime....It may start....briefly and stall right away with thick smoke 4) I'll try that a couple more times / pushing key in to prime more 5) still no success so instead of just priming with the key, I'll advance the throttle to use the fast idle, as what seems to happen it doesn't just stall right away and the fast idle (low rpms) keeps the "idle" somewhat happening with lots of smoke 6) I do #5 multiple times...sometimes the idle lasts a bit longer or shorter and longer and eventually it will idle properly and I can put in gear Note - This has happened for 3 or so years, possibly getting worse each year (?). I initially thought I was putting in too much engine fogger in the fall, so I've been cutting back on that Once the boat starts and idles properly, I have zero starting issues for the rest of the summer. Unlike the original poster, the boat can sit unused for a few weeks and starts up fine with no issues at all
 
If bulb does not go hard you need to investigate that.----It MUST go hard.----Is the " quick start " system working on your motor , yes , no or not sure?
 
racerone said:
If bulb does not go hard you need to investigate that.----It MUST go hard.----Is the " quick start " system working on your motor , yes , no or not sure?
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I believe its working. All indicators/lights come on if that has anything to do with it. If I start the engine normally (apart from the beginning of season startup), there is nothing special I do....just prime, turn key and go. It doesn't idle at noticeably higher rpm's after starting if that is what the "quick start" thing is supposed to do. I just assumed it didn't need to I will address the bulb issue. I do prime / squeeze it a few times for first use of the day. I can hear what i believe is fuel movement with that. Again, zero issues though starting any other time. Thx again for responding
 
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