Johnson 4hp (4W79D) throttle lever adjustment

Motor starts right up in start position and throttles into high speed and back to start position with no problem. When throttle lever is moved towards slow position it dies out. Low speed needle valve has no influence on this problem as far as I can tell. My question is---the cam follower appears to have an adjustment screw when turned inward would seem to spread the follower more towards the cam plate allowing the motor to idle low. Is this a correct assumption.
I don't see anywhere in the repair manual that is specific to this issue. The screw that was in the follower was definetly not the right one, way too short. Out of curiosity I spread the follower with my fingers but it snapped in half with ease. Got a new one coming with the proper screw. Am I right to assume adjusting the screw inwards will allow the motor to idle low?

Any other trouble shooting done ?-----Compression test results ?----Does spark jump a gap of 5/16" on both leads ?

Haven't done any compression test. Spark is adequate both leads. I'm just curious if that cam follower is adjustable by turning the screw. The motor purrs like a kitty and roars like a lion. Just can't put the speed lever in slow position without motor quitting. It looks like the follower is not in contact with the cam plate in slow setting so it won't push the throttle arm on carburetor to keep motor running.???? I'm just a tinkerer and don't have a lot of specialty tools.

Well, on most motors like that the cam does NOT touch at idle.---That is a solid fact.---Do some trouble shooting first !

Ok. Ordered a carb kit. Will do the other tests as time permits with my schedule. Are there any maintenance books specific to this motor or am I left with the large "seloc" general yrs book? Thanks for your input.

You can check the timing with a timing light. Those little engines are real sensitive ignition timing is on points gap. There is a special tool you can set the points with a ohm meter. Otherwise a timing light will work but can take some time to get it correct. On the points plate are two marks and on the flywheel there are two marks 180 degrees out. You want the single mark on the flywheel to be in between the two marks on the plate.

Thanks. Some of this stuff may be over my head. Is this tool very expensive? What's it called and where to purchase? I really like this small engine. Light enough for this old man to lift it off boat and fast enough for me.

???----The special tool is nothing but a " dummy " flywheel.-----Which means you can use your flywheel.----- Just takes a little longer to do the job !!-----Find the 2 timing marks first and ask how to use the flywheel to set the points !!

Alright, I'll do that. Another question--------do I need to start another thread to ask about pivot bearings and vibration dampers. Found a problem.

Nothing to it actually the screws can be a bitch just use power steering fluid and heat to take it apart. You can get the part numbers here for what you need to replace there are two bushings and two rubber dampers. Look close at the copilot brake while it is apart. Use A high quality marine lithium grease when putting back together. One of those 1/4 drive cordless impact guns work great for busting the screws loose without breaking them.

Found a different problem. Do I need to start a new thread? Pivot bearing vibration dampener question.

It looks like the upper bearing is unavailable on this site. I can't see anywhere in the seloc manual pertaining to this procedure. Copilot brake? There is a piece of metal protruding on the outer surface of the damper. Don't know if it's the copilot brake or the bearing. Tell you what I did, I think I caused it.
Had the motor resting on my table top with no top cover just sitting on the flywheel. I was turning the housing in circles back and forth cleaning every bit of it. I heard a very faint "pop" and after cleaning it all I put it back in the stand and noticed that metal piece and stiffer turning with noise now. I'm sure I screwed something up just because I wanted a clean looking motor. Once I remove the outer casing is it pretty obvious as to how to replace the parts?
I am ready to purchase the factory repair manual for this specific engine so I ain't looking so dumb here. Do I have to unmount the exhaust to put the bearing and dampeners on? Maybe I did something to the copilot brake.
Thanks for any help.

You just find the slit and just pry them off. The copilot brake is just free floating the screw puts pressure on the damper so there is pressure on the bushing have you tried eBay?

There are a couple of good looking bushings on eBay search #0314866 used the brake is #0314947

Just pull the four bolts and pull the bracket off and the clamp bracket comes right off.

That's a relief. You guys are real helpful here. I'm hoping I didn't screw up any timing by rotating the motor while resting on the flywheel.