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anodes 2001 Honda 130

NSDON

Regular Contributor
I'm waiting on my manual, how many anodes does this outboard have and where are they?

Does someone sell a "kit" or do you buy them individually?

Are they Zinc?

Thanks,
Don
 
7 , 2 on the gearbox , 2 in the chamber on the side of the block were water comes up from impeller , 2 in the in let manifold , 1 on the bottom of transom brackets .
 
I count nine looking at boats.net parts pages.

3 in block (item 3 in link below)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/ubp/oneButton/config/redirectHome?tagbase=smsg-ubpl

2 in intake manifold (item 2 in link below)

www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2001/BF130A1 XCA/INTAKE MANIFOLD/parts.html

3 on gear case (item 6 and item 7 in link below) note: item 6, trim tab, isn't listed as an anode but the replacement is clearly zinc and not painted "oyster" as indicated.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2001/BF130A1 XCA/GEAR CASE/parts.html

1 "kit" on swivel case (item 1 in link below)

www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Ou...30A1 XCA/STERN BRACKET SWIVEL CASE/parts.html

One thing about the last anode. There is a recent case here on the Forum about a badly oxidized swivel. The pictures submitted were pretty stunning. The owner was lamenting about why Honda had such a "poor design" in that this corrosion took place in such an aggressive manner. But, I do wonder if it wasn't a design flaw but possibly the failure to replace this anode in a timely manner. Not all of the models I've see use this "kit" but there is always some sort of zinc anode setup on the stern bracket/transom clamp components. I know after seeing the damage to that swivel, I will be paying a little closer attention to this area on my outboards.
Just sayin'.
 
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Tegwini,
Very innovative on your part. I'm sure I could learn to love the looks if it works well!

Question:
How are you dealing with the pressure build up as the temperature rises? Are you using a pressure cap and recovery system? Expansion tank?
Also, have you needed to modify the pump?

Ok, ok, I have many questions not just one:>)
And I will understand if you can't go into any detail if you haven't patented or copy written everything.
I know you must be pretty dang excited though having seen all the work you've put into your system.
Best of luck with the Sea trials.
 
I originally ordered a manual from a local dealer Oct 5, as of last week he still was not sure it would arrive any time soon. I found one on ebay from Honda, ordered it Monday afternoon, was very impressed when it arrived Friday, cross border from Georgia, very very impressive shipping and service.

What was not impressive is the manual they put in the box was wrong- for a 40 or 50 HP. Sent 2 emails Friday, no reply yet. I'm sure they will get this corrected, but what a PITA.
 
Question for the group. I’ve changed the two anodes next to the water pump intake on the lower unit and the large one under neath the steering case but I hadn’t realized that there were other anodes under neath the cowling. Are these anodes that don’t need to be replaced very often? I’ll look at mine the next time I get the cowling off but just curious what the “wear” on these is.
 
As a general statement, anode deterioration depends on four things - (1) the type of anode (zinc, aluminum, magnesium) (2) the quality of the anode material used (there is considerable variation - cheap is not normally good when it comes to anodes), (3) the operating environment - fresh water brackish water, saltwater, and (4) the amount of time the anode or the engine the anode is attached to, is in the water. There is a fifth consideration - if the boat and engine are parked in a marina for any amount of time, there are often stray electrical currents from other boats. These electrical currents can rapidly eat away at sacrificial anodes.

I use a rule of thumb - if the anode has lost 40% of it's weight, it is replaced. Of course, you need to record or know the starting weight.

As a comparison, I'm running a 2007 BF 225 strictly in saltwater, when not in the water, it's usually on a lift. I put anywhere from 250 to 350 hours on the engine annually. I replaced the external zinc anodes at 1400 hours due to deterioration and weight loss. At 1500 hours, I paid a shop to pull a 400-hour maintenance and asked them to also change out the four original aluminum anodes in the manifolds. Those anodes showed some deterioration, but we all agreed that they would have probably stayed effective for another 400 to 500 hours.
 
What is the difference between zinc and magnesium? I am om a mooring in salt water all summer, so use zinc?

Thanks,
Don
 
Magnesium will provide the highest possible protection, but will also deteriorate the fastest. Zinc is what I use and what everyone I know uses. On my 225 there is a small cable that runs from one of the bolts holding the large anode under the motor mount to the mount itself. This helps the anode do it's job of protecting the mount. I suspect your 130 has the same setup.

Lets see if this comparative table between different anode materials works:

TABLE 1 – ANODE MATERIALS
Zinc Aluminum Magnesium
Voltage
(in seawater) -1.05V -1.10V -1.6V

Relative Life
(Zinc = 100) 100 130-150 30

Relative Density
(Zinc = 100) 100 42 27

MIL SPEC. MIL-A-18001K MIL-A-24779(SH) MIL-A-21412
 
I count nine looking at boats.ne

3 on gear case (item 6 and item 7 in link below) note: item 6, trim tab, isn't listed as an anode but the replacement is clearly zinc and not painted "oyster" as indicated.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2001/BF130A1 XCA/GEAR CASE/parts.html

FYI for future readers of this post, I ordered the Trim tab, item 6, it is not an anode, it is painted aluminum. I knew the original part was painted aluminum, but thought maybe the replacement part was an anode. It wasn't.
Don
 
Don....I am truly sorry I gave you a bum steer on this. I absolutely was convinced that the replacements are zinc.
I could swear I've purchased them from Honda in the past and they were zinc but, obviously, I'm wrong.

I try to answer questions here as accurately as I can but I don't have a 100% record as I do make mistakes.

Again, I do apologize.

Jimmyd
 
I found one in my manual, page 8-5. Inside the oil water jacket. Is that #10?

If its the one behind the vst ,there is a water jacket that cools the oil pipe inside that jacket it has a aniode inside .dont get mixed up when i refer to behind the vst as there is also a jacket that is directly on the vst.its got a black cover.
 
Don....I am truly sorry I gave you a bum steer on this. I absolutely was convinced that the replacements are zinc.
I could swear I've purchased them from Honda in the past and they were zinc but, obviously, I'm wrong.

I try to answer questions here as accurately as I can but I don't have a 100% record as I do make mistakes.

Again, I do apologize.

Jimmyd

You usually give good advice, everyone makes a mistake once in a while. Maybe what you remembered was on another model Honda.

Don
 
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