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  1. #1

    Default BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Is there anyway to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without the "special Honda tool"? I am trying to remove the pulley so I can put on a new timing belt.

    Thanks!!!!!!!

  2. #2

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    You will need a Srtap wrench

  3. #3
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I haven't worked on this engine but looking only at the parts breakdown you would need a strap wrench, as tegweni indicated, to hold the alternator pulley along with the appropriate socket and breaker bar.

    I have also used a chain wrench to hold pulleys like this but you need to be careful not to distort the pulley sheave... or groove... as some refer to it. Wrapping the chain in some cloth from an old bed sheet or a couple of cloth shop towels is a way around that

    You may also run into the alternator pulley being wedged on the taper of the crankshaft. A large bearing puller is the safest way to overcome that without distorting and bending the pulley.

    Resist the urge to use an impact gun on that bolt as that could cause damage to the crankshaft thrust washer.

    Try Auto Zone for the above mentioned tools as they have a fairly extensive loaner program.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by jgmo; 11-10-2017 at 06:38 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Unfortunately, I tried an impact wrench then I saw the warning in the manual not too. The bolt didn't budge. Hopefully I didn't ruin anything further. I bought a strap wrench and attempted several times to remove the bolt. I don't have an official breaker bar, but I used a larger and a little longer socket wrench, but couldn't get the bolt to budge. The strap wrench eventually broke, but it was a cheap Harbor Freight one. She's on there pretty good, but I'll keep at it. Thanks again!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    The good news is that you probably didn't hurt anything with the impact. I see shop mechanics violate this "rule" often and get away with it. It's just that you MIGHT hurt the crank doing this.

    As I stated before, I haven't worked on this engine so I can't offer an easy short cut or method for loosening that bolt. I just wanted to remind you to check the manual you're working with to ensure you aren't dealing with something odd like left handed threads.

    The only strap wrench likely to hold up doing this little chore is going to be one made from woven fabric like that on a ratchet hold down OR towing strap.
    As a matter of fact, you could fashion something that might be effective from one of those items and a strong piece of thick walled pipe.

    Having a partner hold the pulley while you jerk on the breaker bar might help as well.

    Check your manual for torque specs and to see if you should use a new bolt or thread locker when going back together.

    Good luck.

  6. #6

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Finally got the bolt off. Tried breaker bars, then went to boat mechanic (who called me back and said it wouldn't budge with their impact). Finally went to my auto mechanic and he got it off with a mix between impact and breaker bars. Took a while though. Now I'm trying to align all the timing marks to TDC #1. I was able to get the left camshaft pulley to line up with the TDC mark with #1, but the right side skips over #1 on the pulley. These camshaft pulleys have resistance initially when I start to turn clockwise and then they kind of pop into place at each number when I'm turning them clockwise. The right side is just skipping right over #1. Confused!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    You may want to back off the rocker arms on that cam if you haven't already. It sounds like a cam lobe is going over center right at that timing Mark.

    What does your manual say about the rockers?

  8. #8

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I'm sorry, I have no idea what you just said. Bear with me and my ignorance, It really is amazing what I've fixed on this motor with my minimal knowledge. The manual just says:

    "If you have to turn the camshaft more than a few teeth of the timing belt to align the marks, turn the crankshaft 90 deg. clockwise from No. 1 TDC to lower the pistons. This will prevent the valves from hitting the pistons when you rotate the camshafts. Rotate the camshafts so that the marks align."

    I rotated the crankshaft 90 deg. clockwise of its mark. Then I rotated the left camshaft to align with No 1. This camshaft skipped every other number as well, but No. 1 happened to be one of the numbers that it would land on. Then I tried rotating the right camshaft, but it would skip every other number, including No. 1. Are the camshafts supposed to be smooth when you rotate them? Like I said, mine have a resistance and then "pop" into place on a number, but skip every other number. Once again, please bear with me! Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Hmmmm. I'm not sure what the book is saying other than it's obvious that it's an interference engine and that is their approach to having you move the piston's so that the valves don't contact them while you're trying to line things up.

    But, it's not working for you is it?

    Each valve is opened when the cam rotates and the lobe of the cam lifts a rocker arm and it pivots and pushes on the valve stem..As the cam continues to rotate, the lobe becomes less pronounced and allows the rocker to pivot back away from the valve stem, relaxing the pressure on the stem and allowing the spring to fully close the valve.

    http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ho...ARM/parts.html

    It sounds as if one valve is causing you problems with lining up the timing marks.
    All I'm saying is that, if you can identify which valve is interfering with the process, you can "de-adjust" that particular valve so that the rocker doesn't exert any pressure on the valve stem as the cam rotates. If you look at the parts diagram in the link above, items 15 tappet adjuster and 24 tappet adjusting nut will allow you to this.

    I understand that this may just confuse you more but I'm here to try and explain it another way if necessary. Just let me know.

  10. #10

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Thank you very much for helping out with this. You are a wealth of knowledge. Yes, it is starting to get a little too technical for me, but this is how you learn right? My original plan was to just replace the broken pulley and throw the new timing belt on just to see if I did any damage to the valves. Haha, it turns out after the pesky bolt thing and now this timing issue, Plan A isn't so simple. I might just have to take it to a mechanic.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I'm happy to try to help. I'm sorry you feel overwhelmed but I remember my first overhaul on something bigger than a lawnmower so I know how you feel.

    How do you eat an elephant?
    One bite at a time.

    Before you throw in the towel though ,why don't you see if you can locate the valve that is throwing you a curve here.

    If you remove the cylinder head covers, you will be able to see and access the "valve train". The 225 is a Basic V6 so there are 12 valves....2 per cylinder. As you rotate to the timing mark a few of the valves will be being pushed on. Only a couple will be pushed completely open and it will likely be one of those that is causing your mark to skip past.

    Doing this will take commitment I know but success is achievable. Take a bunch of photos as you go and good notes help as well when putting things back together.

    If this is just not for you, I fully understand and without the commitment needed you are better off getting some help.

    Whatever you decide, good luck and please let us know how it's going.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    The way I have done it is to not tighten up the valves, set the timing marks, then adjust the valves.

  13. #13

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I took the starboard side valve cover off and looked inside. I didn't quite understand what was happening inside there as I turned the camshaft pulley. I think the valves would push in as I turned the pulley as you said would happen. Each cylinder appeared to do this as well as I guess one on the exhaust side would push in. Does that make sense. Either way, as this was opened up I attempted to align to the no. 1 TDC again. I found that if I turned the pulley extremely slow, I was able to line it up. However, if I went even went a mm past the no. 1 mark in the clockwise position, it would snap into that next cylinder. This was my original problem, but now I was trying to do it very slow and not have it snap past no. 1. After about a hundred attempts, I was able to line it up. Long story short, I put the timing belt and everything back on. I started the motor, which took a few tries. The motor ran horrible at first and then kind of smoothed out. But, the motor won't run for very long. Maybe a minute before it dies. Also, I do here a ticking noise. Is that ticking noise a valve issue?

    Again, thank you for being patient!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I guess I should have asked in the beginning why you wanted to replace the timing belt to begin with? Was there a problem?
    Did the engine start and run before? And, if yes, I assume there was no "ticking"?
    Give me a bit of the history of how you got to be doing this job.

    I guess the first thing to check would be to make sure that your timing marks are still lined up and that it hasn't jumped a tooth.

  15. #15

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Oh yes, this thread didn't have my original problem. I was at cruising speed when one of my idler pulleys seized up and broke apart. My timing belt shredded off as well. Motor screeched and died. Learned about interference motors. That's why original plan was to just replace pulley and belt and see how the motor ran to see if my valves bent. Well, we finally got here and the motor seems to not run the best, but it does run for a little bit. The motor seemed to run fine before all this happened so the ticking and the motor dying after a minute is new. I will check the all the timing marks again. I think I can do a compression check right?

  16. #16
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Yes, a compression test will likely reveal low compression in a couple of cylinders or more if you've bent some valves. Not the end of the world if the pistons aren't beat up. Just lots more work and expense.
    Falls under.....

    B reak
    O ut
    A nother
    T housand

  17. #17

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Compression test completed:

    My readings were all over the place.

    Starboard Side:
    No. 1 (top) = 81
    No. 2 (middle) = 191
    No. 3 (Bottom) = 174

    Port Side:
    No. 4 (top) = 0
    No. 5 (middle) = 181
    No. 6 (bottom) = 120

  18. #18
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Just a " lot more work and expense "-----Start by removing the heads.----Souns like bent valves to me.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I'm afraid I will have to agree with racerone. It looks like when this interference engine shucked the timing belt, it bent some valves. Your results show #1 and #4 took the initial hit. But they all may need to be replaced.
    Sorry for the bad news.

  20. #20

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Yeah that stinks. I might get a quote from someone, but I don't think I am going to fix it. The motor is a 2003. I just patched a hole in the block a couple months ago that corroded through. Not sure if it would be wise to spend a lot of money on this motor not knowing how long the patch will hold up. Although, the motor only has around 700 hrs. I believe. Anyone had any luck parting out a motor? You guys have been a tremendous help, thank you.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    I've thrown my timing belt 2x and both times I have had to replace all of the 24 valves.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Well, there go. Skooter puts it in "been there, got the hat" terms. Much more accurate than my speculating!

    As far as parting out the outboard, I don't know for certain there either but I just have to think that there are quite a few dollars there in parts.

    I mean, if I had a mid 2000's 225 Honda that needed a replacement gearcase assembly, I would be ECSTATIC to find a used one, "reasonably" priced, with only 700 hrs. As compared to paying for a new one.....You should be able to find many takers if you get the word out.

    Along with maybe two rebuildable heads, fuel system and injectors, electrical harness, starter, alternator, trim tilt, ignition components and ECM. Those parts and plenty of miscellaneous stuff like crankshaft, engine cover, side covers and lots and lots more, I see a pile of cash.

    But.....it's a pain selling one piece at a time and it would take time to do it that way.

    I'm not a big eBay guy but I know people that sell there and that could be the way to go. The folks I know that use it do anywhere from good to fantastic supplementing their day job income.

    I know that, done correctly, UPS makes shipping in the U.S. much easier than it was just a few years ago. With the buyer paying shipping and the UPS people advising and helping you with boxing things up, it might not be such a bad way to go.

    I'm not trying to sell you on the idea....I just thought I'd throw oiut a few positive thoughts. You've had your share of negative lately to last you a while.

    Whatever you decide to do I wish you the best of luck getting back out on the water.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    My 2 cents about selling on ebay. Ebay's sellers fees have gotten out of hand IMO. they charge 10% of the sales price, plus a listing fee, plus a 3% paypal fee if you accept paypal. But on the other hand it exposes your item to thousands of viewers. If you ask me what I would do about your motor...go to boats.net and buy a brand new oem complete block for under $3500, rebuild your heads with new valves and seals for 1200, and for under $5k you will have a brand new engine. That's providing you have the mechanical knowledge to do that. I did everything with the exception of the valve job work. a local machine shop charged me $300 for the labor. A brand new outboard will cost $19K, plus install. if money is no object, then take the easy way out.

  24. #24

    Default Re: BF225 Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Thanks guys. Money is definitely an object. That's why I may be boatless for a while. My mechanical knowledge is minimal. I have replaced things on my truck and this motor, with a little research and basic common sense. But, the task at hand might be a little beyond my comfort. Thank you all for your advice and input. Truly priceless.

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