Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1996, 115 johnson. Suddenly quit running at slow speeds (below 2000rpm) starter now loaps.

D

doug hodge

New member
Engine was running good, suddenly will not run below 2000rpms, Starts when cold. (runnes for a short time), fuel filter is clean. plugs appear ok.. while trying to restart, starter seams to hesitate every rpm (as if there is a resistance) also when starting engine, it fires but will not continue. changed oil brands prior to problem. I have not performed compression test, at this time
 
Model # required !!-----Compression test is # 1 thing to do.----Broken rings are common on crossflow models.---Check for strong spark on all leads.
 
OK, Compression is 3x110 and 1x100 spark is bright blue, not tested, (Note) While trying to start the motor a pile of unburnt oil developed under exhaust (ground). So I'm thinking VRO overload, or flooding possibly, I rebuilt carbs last season and was running good, Again, just prior to problem, I changed 2cycle oil, Quicksilver to Cheap ? gas filter is clean, Gas line bulb pumps up hard and softens while trying to start. So where to go next, Spark or gas or oil.
 
Compression sounds okay. An inline spark tester is really necessary. Just because the arc jumping the plug gap is blue when you look at it doesn't necessarily mean it's strong enough when the system is under load.

Why would you switch to a cheap oil in an engine that can cost $$thousands$$ to replace or rebuild? Quicksilver is fine oil, but I like to run BRP Evinrude oil in my engines. It's available in the marine section at Walmart and you can get regular dino oil (red stuff) for about $20/gallon and the green semi-synthetic for about $30/gallon. I use the Semi-Synthetic in my '96 Intruder 150 and burns really clean. I might use a little over a gallon in a single season while running on my VRO. With that little of usage I don't really see where a few bucks you save on cheap oil is worth it.

The standard 2-stroke oil is about equivalent to Evinrude XD-30
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evinrude-Johnson-2-Cycle-Marine-Oil/36008461

The semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil is about equivalent to Evinrude XD-50. I would suggest using this in your VRO equipped engine.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evinrude-Johnson-Semi-Synthetic-Outboard-Oil/24091064
 
Remove bypass cover if equipped and inspect piston / rings on low cylinder, costs 2$ for the gasket.----Model # is not posted
 
kevinj said:
Compression sounds okay. An inline spark tester is really necessary. Just because the arc jumping the plug gap is blue when you look at it doesn't necessarily mean it's strong enough when the system is under load.

Why would you switch to a cheap oil in an engine that can cost $$thousands$$ to replace or rebuild? Quicksilver is fine oil, but I like to run BRP Evinrude oil in my engines. It's available in the marine section at Walmart and you can get regular dino oil (red stuff) for about $20/gallon and the green semi-synthetic for about $30/gallon. I use the Semi-Synthetic in my '96 Intruder 150 and burns really clean. I might use a little over a gallon in a single season while running on my VRO. With that little of usage I don't really see where a few bucks you save on cheap oil is worth it.

The standard 2-stroke oil is about equivalent to Evinrude XD-30
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evinrude-Johnson-2-Cycle-Marine-Oil/36008461

The semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil is about equivalent to Evinrude XD-50. I would suggest using this in your VRO equipped engine.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evinrude-Johnson-Semi-Synthetic-Outboard-Oil/24091064
Click to expand...

I did not think a few dollars would make that much difference, as it would burn in combustion. Like the difference in gas octane.
I will be checking spark plugs inline.
 
The lubricating oil is introduced into the engine via the gasoline.---It has to coat the parts in order to avoid wear.-----Some oil is lost from the crankcase and burns off after it has done the work of " oiling " the parts.
 
racerone said:
The lubricating oil is introduced into the engine via the gasoline.---It has to coat the parts in order to avoid wear.-----Some oil is lost from the crankcase and burns off after it has done the work of " oiling " the parts.
Click to expand...
Yep. Oil and fuel are the life blood of a 2-stroke. A good quality oil that properly coats the engine internals is essential to avoid excess wear of bearings and cylinders. Correct flow of fuel and oil to each cylinder is an absolute necessity. So its not about the oil getting burned in combustion it's about making sure your engine has a long life.

Octane also is vitally important depending on engine specs. High performance engines with high cylinder compression must have gas with the higher octane to avoid pre-detonation and piston/head damage. If you have a car with an HO engine that calls for high octane fuel, but you choose to save a few dollars and run lower octane fuel, the car will run but will eventually experience a major engine failure in the form of melted pistons. The cost savings might not bite you immediately but it will eventually catch up with you. The same is true of cheap 2-stroke oil. It might be okay in the short run, but eventually the lower quality will result in excess wear and failed internal components.

The question is do you want to save a few dollars each year on cheap oil and spend a bunch later on an engine replacement or rebuild, or.......spend a little extra now and have an engine that will last for years and years? Only you can answer that question. Lets assume you go through 2 gallons per year. At $30 per gallon, the semi-synthetic Evinrude oil will cost you $60/year. The Cheap Walmart Super Tech TCW3 oil is about $13/gallon ($26/year). So it would be a $34 savings if you went through 2 gallons of that versus the Evinrude stuff. When the cheap oil finally catches up and requires an engine rebuild the bill will be about $2,000. How many years do you need to save $34 each year to equal that $2000 rebuild cost?.......answer is 59 years. So how does that $34 savings look now?

KJ
 
kevinj said:
Yep. Oil and fuel are the life blood of a 2-stroke. A good quality oil that properly coats the engine internals is essential to avoid excess wear of bearings and cylinders. Correct flow of fuel and oil to each cylinder is an absolute necessity. So its not about the oil getting burned in combustion it's about making sure your engine has a long life.

Octane also is vitally important depending on engine specs. High performance engines with high cylinder compression must have gas with the higher octane to avoid pre-detonation and piston/head damage. If you have a car with an HO engine that calls for high octane fuel, but you choose to save a few dollars and run lower octane fuel, the car will run but will eventually experience a major engine failure in the form of melted pistons. The cost savings might not bite you immediately but it will eventually catch up with you. The same is true of cheap 2-stroke oil. It might be okay in the short run, but eventually the lower quality will result in excess wear and failed internal components.

The question is do you want to save a few dollars each year on cheap oil and spend a bunch later on an engine replacement or rebuild, or.......spend a little extra now and have an engine that will last for years and years? Only you can answer that question. Lets assume you go through 2 gallons per year. At $30 per gallon, the semi-synthetic Evinrude oil will cost you $60/year. The Cheap Walmart Super Tech TCW3 oil is about $13/gallon ($26/year). So it would be a $34 savings if you went through 2 gallons of that versus the Evinrude stuff. When the cheap oil finally catches up and requires an engine rebuild the bill will be about $2,000. How many years do you need to save $34 each year to equal that $2000 rebuild cost?.......answer is 59 years. So how does that $34 savings look now?

KJ
Click to expand...

THANKS.. Point taken, still want to find out what's wrong, still need to check spark and on an on.
 
Back
Top