Logo
Click for Volvo Penta parts and manuals!
Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1

    Default Volvo AQ 250 questions

    All (especially Ricardo):

    I am restoring/refurbishing a 1968 23' Chris Craft Lancer. While the original 283 SBC is shot I want to reuse the outdrive which, based on serial number, is a Volvo AQ 250. I have had the transmission and U joints refurbished and am told they were in remarkably good condition.

    However in the process of removing the engine I found the 6 bolts holding the clamping ring were so totally fused to the intermediate housing (I believe galling is the correct term) that eventually I had to cut away enough of the clamping ring to remove the bell housing and intermediate housing from inside. The original intermediate housing is now in the hands of a local machinist and I hope he will be able to get the remains of the clamping ring off and extract the remains of the 6 bolts. However it may turn out to be unusable. I would post images but so far cannot get them to upload.

    I have searched the internet high and low and this particular intermediate housing (part number 826807)is an obsolete part and I can't find anything. I did find and purchase via E Bay what looked like a suitable replacement based on external dimensions but now that I compare the two side by side they are obviously quite different.

    So my questions are if I cannot reuse the original intermediate housing is it possible to use the one I bought, or something else, in it's place? I believe I would need a different shaft and obviously the bearings and seals would be different. How much more would I have to change/replace to do this or am I heading down an bottomless rabbit hole?
    Last edited by WHPile; 09-21-2017 at 09:14 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Island Heights, NJ,
    Posts
    2,564

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Unlikely you will get a meaningful answer without at least a picture of what you bought. Please note tht there is a size limit to pictures uploaded to this forum. Use Microsoft "Paint" or equivalent to resize if oversize.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    .......................
    Quote Originally Posted by WHPile View Post
    All (especially Ricardo):

    I am restoring/refurbishing a 1968 23' Chris Craft Lancer. While the original 283 SBC is shot I want to reuse the out drive which, based on serial number, is a Volvo AQ 250.
    I believe that 1968 is a bit too early for the drive to be a 250.
    (btw, the Alpha characters "AQ" followed by "XXX" is typically describing the engine model)


    I have had the transmission and U joints refurbished and am told they were in remarkably good condition.
    Keep in mind that the 250 transmission (aka upper gear unit) incorporates:
    ..... small driven gear bearings (not interchangeable with later transmissions and/or Intermediate Housings)
    ..... very small and lighter duty main drive gear male yoke (probably not the best choice for a larger and more torque producing engine)


    However in the process of removing the engine I found the 6 bolts holding the clamping ring were so totally fused to the intermediate housing (I believe galling is the correct term) that eventually I had to cut away enough of the clamping ring to remove the bell housing and intermediate housing from inside.
    This is not uncommon.
    I have sacrificed many clamping rings over the years, as well as needing to drill the heads from the six "tap bolts" in order to remove the ring.
    Be sure to replace these six bolts with the correct galvanized Tap Bolts........ not standard bolts!!!!!!


    The original intermediate housing is now in the hands of a local machinist and I hope he will be able to get the remains of the clamping ring off and extract the remains of the 6 bolts.
    Please explain what you are referring to as the Intermediate Housing!!!!!
    ( the Intermediate Housing is the casing that supports the transmission and the lower gear unit! )


    Are you talking about a Borg Warner (slash) Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing?????
    (SEQ #2 would not be used)
    https://www.marinepartseurope.com/Pe...s500/28142.jpg

    Please advise your machinist that the female threads are actually "thread inserts", and are NOT threads that have been tapped or rolled into Aluminum!!!!!!!!


    However it may turn out to be unusable. I would post images but so far cannot get them to upload.

    I have searched the internet high and low and this particular intermediate housing (part number 826807) is an obsolete part and I can't find anything. I did find and purchase via E Bay what looked like a suitable replacement based on external dimensions but now that I compare the two side by side they are obviously quite different.

    It looks like the part that you have described via p/n 826807 is for the 4 cylinder engine.
    It looks similar to this 4 cylinder engine Flywheel Cover
    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...G?v=1430872915

    If you are replacing a SBC 282 with a Volvo Penta 4 cylinder engine, your lower gear unit reduction (aka ratio) will be incorrect!


    So my questions are if I cannot reuse the original intermediate housing is it possible to use the one I bought, or something else, in it's place?
    Again...... why are you replacing the Intermediate Housing?
    Click on this link...... this is a 250 Intermediate Housing (note the Anti-Rotation pin inserts in the sides of the suspension fork)

    https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...NLRRTp6RSHOuXz


    I believe I would need a different shaft and obviously the bearings and seals would be different.
    You must be referring to a PDS (primary drive shaft).


    How much more would I have to change/replace to do this or am I heading down an bottomless rabbit hole?
    What you are attempting is not uncommon, and is very doable with the correct components. (been there..... done that)

    I would be glad to help you..... but would need for the both of us to speak the same AQ series language, and I would need to see the parts that you now have!

    .
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-21-2017 at 10:45 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    thanks for quick reply!


    Outdrive serial number is PZ NR 25107807A and shift cover says Chrysler Commando but tag with serial number says Volvo so I am pretty sure it is a 250 outdrive,
    Finally figured out how to load images.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	sm side by side.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	83.2 KB 
ID:	16519
    original housing on left

    Original housing on top


    Any help much appreciated!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    original housing on top

  6. #6

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	smhousings.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	11.3 KB 
ID:	16520

  7. #7

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    Success! The retaining ring is off and shaft and bearings are out.



    I see multiple postings about the correct parts to use, process and sequence to reassemble but would appreciate if you could give me a specific parts list for my situation.

    Here is the original housing

    Thanks again
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	shaft.jpeg 
Views:	2 
Size:	29.5 KB 
ID:	16521   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PDS housing.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	34.6 KB 
ID:	16522  
    Last edited by WHPile; 09-21-2017 at 06:05 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Island Heights, NJ,
    Posts
    2,564

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Looks like you're on you way.... Next question...What are you planning to put in front of this as an engine replacement. Keep in mind that what goes in front of this in the Lancer world is a straight inboard engine, not an "I/O" engine. Take advantage of this time to go to a "starter up" (and aft facing) starter configuration. If you are planning on going to a much larger CID displacement engine, there are some issues. Been thru 1969 Lancer re-engines on two different 1969s.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    ...........................
    Quote Originally Posted by WHPile View Post
    Ricardo: thanks for quick reply!
    You are welcome!


    Outdrive serial number is PZ NR 25107807A
    Yes..... that would be a 250.
    I would need to look up the "A" designation.
    B = V-8
    C = 6 cylinder
    D = 4 cylinder


    and shift cover says Chrysler Commando but tag with serial number says Volvo so I am pretty sure it is a 250 outdrive,
    Yes, Chrysler tagged the Volvo Penta stern drives back then. Likewise did Eaton and Glastron!


    Finally figured out how to load images.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	sm side by side.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	83.2 KB 
ID:	16519
    original housing on left

    OK.... these are NOT Volvo Penta.
    These are either Eaton, Glastron, Donzi or Holman Moody Borg Warner (-slash-) V/P PDS adapter housings.
    The one to the left is a double bearing PDS using Borg Warner splines.
    The one to the right is a single bearing PDS, and may be B/W or Volvo Penta, but this one requires a pilot nose PDS which also requires a pilot bushing in the Engine's crankshaft.

    That said..... I'm assuming that you have a Flywheel AFT installation, and not that Goofy Flywheel FWD installation!




    Original housing on top
    Picture is not showing!!!!!


    Any help much appreciated!
    Quote Originally Posted by WHPile View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	smhousings.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	11.3 KB 
ID:	16520

    Again..... these are either Eaton, Glastron, Donzi or Holman Moody Borg Warner - to- Volvo Penta PDS adapter housings.
    The six bolt pattern FWD is Borg Warner.
    These housings set the engine FWD by 3 1/8" over that of what the Volvo Penta OEM std flywheel cover (or B/W (slash) PDS adapter housing) does.

    Quote Originally Posted by WHPile View Post
    Ricardo:

    Success! The retaining ring is off and shaft and bearings are out.

    OK..... keep in mind that the PDS shown is a double-bearing PDS.
    It must go back into the same brand and style double-bearing PDS adapter housing.


    I see multiple postings about the correct parts to use, process and sequence to reassemble but would appreciate if you could give me a specific parts list for my situation.
    Can you link us to these multiple postings?

    Here is the original housing
    Picture is not showing up!

    Thanks again

    Hopefully you do not have one of these goofy Flywheel FWD installations (see below).

    Look closely and you'll see that the Borg Warner unit is fitted to the Front of this SBC engine.
    Also....... the old 283 crankshaft was small journal. The drive adapter for the 283 crankshaft will not work on a later or more current year SBC.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	AQ210 goofy engine orientation.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	50.8 KB 
ID:	16525  
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-22-2017 at 11:22 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Capt Bob:
    I know there are a lot of different engine configurations that Chris Craft used in Lancers. The old engine was a 283 FLV with the starter facing aft but mounted low.

    My plan has been to buy a new 350/5.7L like this one:
    http://www.michiganmotorz.com/350ci-...ment-p-66.html.

    I already have a almost new Edelbrock 1409 marine carb and will be buying a new intake manifold.

    A previous owner had abandoned the original exhaust set up using the outdrive and installed obsolete Barr exhaust manifolds and risers so the boat already has two 3" exhaust ports in the transom. I plan to set the engine up with fresh water cooling (I am in salt water) and the old manifold and risers are unusable anyway. Any advice on what brand appreciated.

    I will not use the old Chris Craft/Sherwood belt drive raw water pump, will use a crankshaft driven new pump and not pull water thru the outdrive but instead via a new thru hull raw water inlet.

    Not decided yet on distributer/ignition. Any thoughts on the Delco "Voyager" system versus
    http://performancedistributors.com/p...-distributors/

  11. #11

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:
    Thanks again for your wisdom. My old engine set up is a straight forward flywheel aft arrangement, not one of goofy ones.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	old 283 FLV.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	36.4 KB 
ID:	16526

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Island Heights, NJ,
    Posts
    2,564

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    In both of my Lancer reengine projects, I went thru hull, but with mufflers. Not only did I not want to deal with the noise of a 5.7 exhaust short plumbed directly to the transom, but NJ law required it. Additionally, a 5.7 L engine typically requires a single 4" dia exhaust ( or dual 3) and the Volvo 200 series system, at best has the equivalent of a 2.5" dia exhaust port. 5.7 engines w/FWC require a 1 1/4 min water line and the 200 drive also does not support this. I run in Barnegat bay and after several trials on several boats, have settled on an external wedge inlet strainer on my thru hull. I took the opportunity to plumb in a T and a hose bib for flushing and winterizing.

    Re: manifolds and elbows. Best bang for the buck I feel are OEM Mercruiser centerrise with "dry joint" elbows, even though I think Crusaders are better.

    Raw water pumps. There isn't a whole lot of room in front of the engine for a direct drive. My engine is set up with a serpentine belt and belt driven raw water pump. Its been trouble free. BTW, both times I elected to buy factory new "all up" crate engines. I did not want to spend my time, or pay a mechanic to "fiddle" with the engine, and I wanted a real warranty. FWIW, the re-engine I did to my first 1969 Lancer ( yes, I'm on Lancer #2) was with a Chrysler Marine 240 HP 318CID engine, the second, per my signature block is a MERC 5.7MIE with a TKS carb (260HP). (I don't like injected engines in boats... I bought my first boat in 1964 and have always been able to get home using simple tools with a carb'd engine). I ditched the 250 drive on my latest and swapped it for a 280, which has better internals. Both engines are/were FWC. Both Lancers had the 185/283FLV engines when I got them. Too little CID for the hull!!! BTW, am running a 15x17 prop these days but what you'll run depends somewhat on the cam, etc. setup on your engine as you need to be propped to run withing the engine's specified WOT RPM range.... and I don't know how you get this spec with your "kit" engine.
    Last edited by sandkicker; 09-22-2017 at 11:43 AM.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  13. #13

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    link to posting about PDS bearings:
    http://www.network54.com/Forum/42484...nd+more+update

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    I was not able to see any distinctive information regarding the primary drive shaft bearings!

    I'm glad to see that your engine will install in the conventional sterndrive orientation!

    Hopefully, you are purchasing a marine specific engine.

    Please note that if you install the BW / Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing that uses the single bearing, it will have a pilot nose at the forward end.
    This pilot nose must be received by a crankshaft bushing of the same size.



    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    here is what came out of the PDS adapter
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	shaft.JPG 
Views:	3 
Size:	31.2 KB 
ID:	16528
    It is a two bearing arrangement, you can see the forward one is still on shaft. The aft one was a closed type, I understand that would be an incorrect past replacement. Also only one seal left, other went missing somewhere along the way.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Taken from post #4;

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	sm side by side.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	83.2 KB 
ID:	16519
    original housing on left


    Ok...... The original PDS adapter housing is on the left.
    Please note that the housing accommodates the double bearing PDS.

    The replacement PDS adapter housing is on the right.
    Note that the bore does not accommodate a double bearing PDS!
    This housing is for a pilot nose PDS!

    Do you have the correct PDS with a pilot nose?



    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    What is the latest, and how are you doing with this?


    I may be wrong...... but didn't you say that the original PDS adapter housing was bad, and that you had found a replacement housing?

    It appears that the original was a double bearing PDS, and that the empty replacement PDS adapter housing requires a single bearing PDS!
    If what I'm thinking is the replacement PDS adapter housing...... where is the PDS for THAT adapter housing????

    Just curious!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PDS Borg Warner adapter info 2.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	63.5 KB 
ID:	16558  
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    Thanks for the labelled image and am I correct there should be two seals? Am I also correct they should both face the same way as in the attached diagram?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Seal diagram.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	57.2 KB 
ID:	16565

    I am trying to reuse the original 2 bearing Borg Warner housing. That nice shiny new(ish) one was an ebay shot in the dark that is now on it's way back to the seller.

    Issue is the remains of the bolts that held the clamping ring on still need to come out. Housing is currently in the hands of Simplex Engine and Machine (http://www.simplexengine.com) in Providence RI who have made no promises, but are going to try and extract one and let me know if it is something they can do. They told me they used to use someone who used a laser to extract things like this when they couldn't but that shop has vanished.

    From browsing a number of your posts I see you refer to EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) as a possible way to get the #$%@ bolt remains out. I can find several local shops that have that kind of equipment (http://true-machine.com/services.html) but have not talked to them yet, pending what Simplex tells me. Am I on the right track?

    Meanwhile I am replacing rotten floor and other fun activities to keep me occupied.

    Henry
    Last edited by WHPile; 09-28-2017 at 02:34 PM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    ........................

    Quote Originally Posted by WHPile View Post
    Ricardo:

    Thanks for the labelled image and am I correct there should be two seals? Am I also correct they should both face the same way as in the attached diagram?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Seal diagram.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	57.2 KB 
ID:	16565

    Yes..... both of the seals install with the lips and tension springs facing AFT.
    This is so that the AFT-most seal will not be able to hydraulically "lock" as will the FWD seal.
    When applying future grease, the excessive grease will purge via the AFT-facing seal lip.



    I am trying to reuse the original 2 bearing Borg Warner housing. That nice shiny new(ish) one was an ebay shot in the dark that is now on it's way back to the seller.

    Issue is the remains of the bolts that held the clamping ring on still need to come out.
    OK..... so several Tap Bolts broke off during dis-assembly..... correct?

    Housing is currently in the hands of Simplex Engine and Machine (http://www.simplexengine.com) in Providence RI who have made no promises, but are going to try and extract one and let me know if it is something they can do. They told me they used to use someone who used a laser to extract things like this when they couldn't but that shop has vanished.

    Yes..... the EDM would be my recommendation.
    Keep in mind that these female threads are not aluminum ....... they are "Thread Inserts" similar to a helicoil.
    https://d1rnt4jswe7umx.cloudfront.net/images/products/thumb/32e796b607f54a791a5aca98673c58dd.jpg
    They are also very deep..... meaning that they do not actually begin until deeper into the bore.
    If the machine shop disturbs an insert while trying to extract a Tap Bolt fragment, you will be in trouble!


    From browsing a number of your posts I see you refer to EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) as a possible way to get the #$%@ bolt remains out.
    Yes!

    I can find several local shops that have that kind of equipment (http://true-machine.com/services.html) but have not talked to them yet, pending what Simplex tells me. Am I on the right track?
    You would be on the right track if using EDM!
    As for the split ring keeper (and your PM);
    This keeper has zero to do with the vertical shaft spline coupler and it's internal "C" clip!
    The split ring is used at the transmission's vertical shaft.

    During assembly, the transmission's vertical shaft is put into it's final position and is held there via a split ring and a split ring keeper or retainer.
    Once in position, the proper top LH nut is secured.

    The original 280 (and prior) spit ring keepers were machined from bronze.
    There can be a tremendous Up-Lift force placed against the rings and the keeper.
    Bronze expands over time.
    When/if it was to expand beyond it's limit, serious damage occurs!

    The stress proof steel units (for 280 and earlier) are not available via Volvo Penta........ however, they are available via me.


    Below is an image of a transmission vertical shaft, two split rings and the split ring keeper.

    The exposed splines that you see at the very lower area are coupled to the lower unit vertical shaft via the "spline coupler"!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Vertical shaft and split ring keeper 1 modified.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	82.2 KB 
ID:	16573  
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    As for your double bearing B/W (slash) Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing (that is in need of EDM)....... why not spare yourself the trouble and expense, and buy one that does not have this issue?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-...RZB4jc&vxp=mtr

    Most sellers do not use the correct terminology nor do they know what they actually have!
    This seller lists it as a "bell housing" and as a 290. This is incorrect!

    None-the-less, this unit uses the Borg Warner 6 bolt pattern, it has Borg Warner splines at the FWD end, and it has course splines at the AFT end...... just like your PDS.
    All of these units (Donzi, Eaton, Holman Moody, Glastron, etc.) place the engine FWD by 3 - 1/8".




    Here is another unit.
    This is NOT Volvo Penta, it is not a bell housing, and there is no gimbal anything with the AQ series.

    Note that it is minus the PDS. Your PDS may work in it depending on the maker.
    Also note that he adds Free Shipping!

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-Flywheel-Bell-Housing-Gimbal-Casting-1-897657-JM1-/202063600014?hash=item2f0bedd98e:g:zsMAAOSw44BYOlM 5&vxp=mtr


    Food for thought!


    Just as an FYI for you..... this one is a Borg Warner -slash- Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing made by Volvo Penta.
    This unit places the engine in the standard position...... (not 3-1/8" forward)

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-...NZfqcT&vxp=mtr



    .
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-29-2017 at 10:06 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    This must be the unit that you bought and are returning.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-PENTA-...ZZzVBq&vxp=mtr

    The seller is rather silly to try and sell this without the PDS. It will create nothing but confusion among the buyers.

    The siongle bearing PDS for that unit would look similar to this one with a pilot nose..... but will be 3-1/8" longer.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-AQ-4-cyl-Bell-housing-Shaft-10-spline-832941-I-O-/232380446821?epid=0&hash=item361af43865:g:Iq0AAOSw jvJZSYUb&vxp=mtr


    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Island Heights, NJ,
    Posts
    2,564

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Re: Rotten floors... My floors are also the plywood/Nautolex variety. The hatch covers (all 3) were in sad shape and this season I made new ones. I had a rude surprise when I found out that CDX grade ( which I've used in the past) is now, even from a non big box source, unsatisfactory. I had to go to BCX. Given its location/use, I don't feel that marine grade is warranted. After a lot of research I coated both sides of the new hatch plates with CPES (Rotdoctor) before applying Nautolex Adhesive and new Nautolex. Not quite the same pattern, but the current Nautolex blue is close enough.

    While folks try to save a few bucks using other than the factory Nautolex adhesive, I would not advise it. This last Nautolex project is my 4th Nautolex project and I've always gotten suburb results with #88 adhesive. If you dig into their info sheets, you will find that their adhesive is water based and is intended to wet the fabric backing on the Nautolex causing it to shrink very slightly (you need to staple the edges with SS staples) resulting in an absolutely tight flat finished surface. I don't know if you have pedistal seats or lounger, but mine are lounger. I ended up moving them both back 7 to 8" as I like to stand behind the helm. This of course results in some necessary mods to the hatch covers.

    I have pix if you are interested. In order not to clutter this forum up with Lancer resto pix, pm my your email if interested.
    Last edited by sandkicker; 09-29-2017 at 10:16 AM.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    One more thought....... be sure to replace both, or at minimum at least the inboard or flywheel cover side "rubber cushion ring".

    This rubber cushion ring (when clamped tightly via the clamping ring) provides the water seal.
    This ring must be compressible.

    Most often used rubber cushion rings will not be resilient enough to create the water seal!
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  24. #24

    Cool Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Ricardo:

    First thanks for all your help in navigating this mechanical minefield.

    Good thought on the rings, the old rings were shot so I already have two fresh rubber cushion rings along with a used, but in good shape, retaining ring, 6 correct bolts to fit and three of the metal "striker plates".

    Thanks for the ebay links, I am learning that half the time the sellers don't really know what they are listing. I have offer in for the one that includes the PDS and allegedly good bearings and fresh grease (!).

    Keep you posted.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,089

    Default Re: Volvo AQ 250 questions

    Henry, I would advise against taking anyone's word regarding fresh bearings and freshly packed grease!
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

Similar Threads

  1. 98 5.7 GSI Volvo Penta Questions
    By Colby1st in forum Volvo Penta Gas Engine Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-02-2015, 08:25 PM
  2. 1998 Volvo-Penta SX-M 1.66 Questions...
    By snowrider in forum Volvo Penta Gas Engine Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-08-2012, 10:33 PM
  3. 57 280 Volvo prop questions
    By tmdart in forum Volvo Penta Gas Archive
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 07-15-2007, 08:32 AM
  4. 3 L 2005 Volvo Penta questions
    By Joe smith in forum Volvo Penta Gas Archive
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-10-2007, 06:33 PM
  5. Volvo Penta AQ 125A Questions
    By john in forum Volvo Penta Gas Archive
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-21-2006, 04:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •