Logo
FULL SITE MENU

2003 Bravo 3 Drive - Using Oil

A

abl1111

Regular Contributor
2003 Bravo 3 drive w/850 hours has started to use oil. The drive has always had oil changed at end of each season, the exterior is mint even though she's in the Brine for (7) months a year. Over the years, she has used varying amounts of oil at weird intervals - but this year its been more consistent.

I have never changed any seals ( except for filler / breather washers and have never had water in the gear oil after each season.

I do not see any leak indications at or leading from the drive oil receptacle to the drive.

I don't see any oil leak indication in the water near the drive.

?

I believe I have the tools to do a pressure and vacuum test and plan to do one at the close of the season.

Are there seals that I should change either way ?

Any thoughts on this ?
 
My boat has an Alpha One so I don't know if the same applies to Bravo. Last year I started to mysteriously lose gear oil from my reservoir and had to top it off every couple of outings. There were no leaks around seals or anywhere else. In the winter we finally removed the outdrive and found a plastic fitting in the gimbal housing was cracked and was leaking.

KJ
 
Not sure of the similarities / differences between the two in terms of the oil reservoir connections from reservoir to the drive... What did that plastic piece do ? Where was it connected to ? Was there oil in your bellows ?

My transom plate, gimbal and swivel were all replaced (2) years ago... Could be something is wrong there, but it wouldn't be from age...
 
abl1111 said:
Not sure of the similarities / differences between the two in terms of the oil reservoir connections from reservoir to the drive... What did that plastic piece do ? Where was it connected to ? Was there oil in your bellows ?
Click to expand...
The plastic fitting was a small hose barb that threads into the outdrive. A short piece of tubing connected between the outdrive and gimbal housing and that's what allows the flex as the outdrive tilts up and down with the trim. I assume there was another piece of tubing on the inside of the stern that leads up to the gear oil reservoir.

I can't tell you anything about a Bravo so I don't know if they have the same setup. Mine was only cracked and that's why it only leaked out bit by bit. I remember seeing an oil sheen behind the boat and wondered where the source might be and it took removing the outdrive to get a good clean look to find that little booger.

KJ
 
UPDATE -- Pulled boat - Bravo 3 drained oil. Pulled drive from transom/gimbal assembly. Did a 15 psi pressure test - for 24 hours or more. Spun shaft etc - no change in pressure. I'm replacing the drain plug seals for the heck of it.

Where might I look next for a loss in oil ?
 
I found where its leaking ! It's leaking near the shaft seal, where the drive goes into gimbal bearing etc. - it left drive oil in the bellows.

Is this a big project ? What is entailed in the repair ?
 
abl1111 said:
I found where its leaking ! It's leaking near the shaft seal, where the drive goes into gimbal bearing etc. - it left drive oil in the bellows.

Is this a big project ? What is entailed in the repair ?
Click to expand...

Driveshaft seal carrier is what I'm replacing now also. There's a few videos on youtube and i suggest you get the seal and carrier installed together already. I had a leak all summer (brand new rebuilt b3) and whoever pressed the seal into the carrier didn't use the proper seal driver and dented it during the process causing it to leak. You'll need to a special torque wrench to set rolling resistance also. I still need to acquire one, hopefully borrow as they are about $200.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
Driveshaft seal carrier is what I'm replacing now also. There's a few videos on youtube and i suggest you get the seal and carrier installed together already. I had a leak all summer (brand new rebuilt b3) and whoever pressed the seal into the carrier didn't use the proper seal driver and dented it during the process causing it to leak. You'll need to a special torque wrench to set rolling resistance also. I still need to acquire one, hopefully borrow as they are about $200.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to time the gear set.
 
Yes it is.

+ over - Or - over + .......as long as they are exactly lined up there will be no issues.

Also get the chart for figuring out the torque wrench setting according to the length of your spanner wrench.
 
Update:

Had my mechanic do this repair. Odd scenario. He took the Yoke assembly and gears out. The oil seal was fine.

The Yoke assembly, where the oil seal fit had a slight groove so he said it should be replaced ( he replaced the whole assembly, yoke, universal, seals ). Also, the yoke/ socket was loose.

The odd thing and I can't understand it - he said the nut at the yoke end was on backwards - said it had no tension at all. He said someone had 'been in there' and it did not look like OM. I bought drive new and never had any work done on it ?! Only explanation I can think of is that the mercruiser guy I bought it from did some hanky-panky. The drive when installed new looked BRAND new... That was 900 hours ago and 14 years...

Lastly - he said pressure test, as I stated earlier, had no leakage - but, the vacuum test did. This guy is a certified mercruiser mech - he's excellent ( and $$$ ).

The job seems simple but I do believe there are torque and certain spec parameters that were beyond me. My wallet hurts, but I know it was done right.
 
Back
Top