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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Brooks Range, Alaska
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks Again Ricardo!!
    as per the screws or bolts being a wet type in the upper gear box/transmission clamping ring, how do they get exsposed to seawater? They are inside of the bellows, and enter into the transmission box.. I have a milling machine and lathe in my shop and intend to at some point try and cut the broken bolt out, leaving a thin margin as not to get into the case. I applied about as much heat as I figured I dare to, it certainly looked like the red loctite had been used.
    the rebuilt transmission is coming from Greenbay, Wisconsin, my brother picked it up for me from a local marine and it is on its way.
    as for the splined shaft coupler, I believe I have the longer version, it measures 3" versus the 2" ones I see for sale on eBay.
    am I correct? Long one being 3"?
    i have the shop manual, but not a part number cat. Nor does the manual state the length of the longer or short splined coupler.?
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Lake Tahoe, California
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Rick stated:

    OK..... the two back-to-back Tapered Roller Bearings (30207 and 31307) that we mention being in the BB (bearing box) are shim controlled on the 280.
    These two bearings must be checked for what we refer to as "rolling torque" value.
    If a new "main drive gear" seal was replaced, the shims are often un-touched.
    However, any mechanic worth his salt would have removed the "main drive gear" and would have looked at the 31307 rollers and outer race for signs of wear.
    If worn, he would have replaced both of them..... AND, he would have gone back through the "rolling torque" value procedure.


    According to the 280 shop manual, when you reassemble the BB, you need to install special tool 884483 in the BB, install the collar washer and associated shims, then torque the u-joint screw to 55 ft/lb and make a final measurement of the pre-stressing (rolling torque). If the value is incorrect, you adjust the number of shims underneath the collar washer appropriately and retest.

    Assuming that disassembly of the BB is not done, is it sufficient to simply: 1) insert the u-joint assembly, 2) reinstall the original number of shims under the collar washer and 3) torque to 55? (eliminating the need for the special tool)...

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,091

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    .............................
    Quote Originally Posted by djhinca View Post
    Rick stated:

    OK..... the two back-to-back Tapered Roller Bearings (30207 and 31307) that we mention being in the BB (bearing box) are shim controlled on the 280.
    These two bearings must be checked for what we refer to as "rolling torque" value.
    If a new "main drive gear" seal was replaced, the shims are often un-touched.
    However, any mechanic worth his salt would have removed the "main drive gear" and would have looked at the 31307 rollers and outer race for signs of wear.
    If worn, he would have replaced both of them..... AND, he would have gone back through the "rolling torque" value procedure.


    According to the 280 shop manual, when you reassemble the BB, you need to install special tool 884483 in the BB, install the collar washer and associated shims, then torque the u-joint screw to 55 ft/lb and make a final measurement of the pre-stressing (rolling torque). If the value is incorrect, you adjust the number of shims underneath the collar washer appropriately and retest.
    During my approx 24 years of AQ series work (including many transmission re-seals and over-hauls), I have never once used the 884483 tool.


    Assuming that disassembly of the BB is not done, is it sufficient to simply: 1) insert the u-joint assembly (the male yoke), 2) reinstall the original number of shims (inside of the seal surface washer) and 3) torque to 55? (eliminating the need for the special tool)...

    Yes.... I fully agree!
    However, I have always brought the rolling torque value UP with what we call "run-in" bearings..... and that's only IF the bearings are still OK!

    Otherwise, both bearings are replaced.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Brooks Range, Alaska
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks guys.
    I have all winter at this point, and once things slow down, I might just take a shot at going through the entire drive, as I have said, vlovo penta is new to me, but it's all mechanics . I mostly work on diesel powered power generation systems, so it'll be interesting..
    am I right in thinking that I allready have the longer splined verticle coupling as it is 3" ?( For converting to a duoprop lower)
    if I am not, would anyone know the part number for the longer coupler? I work off of Hughes net for any of my internet usage, it in itself is a challenge. No other options.
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,091

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    ...............................

    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    Thanks guys.


    am I right in thinking that I already have the longer splined verticle coupling as it is 3" ?( For converting to a duoprop lower)
    FYI.... the long vertical shaft spline coupler becomes necessary ONLY when converting from an s/p lower gear unit to a C or later Duo Prop lower gear unit.
    Reason: the "C" (and later) lower gear unit's vertical shaft has been shortened!


    if I am not, would anyone know the part number for the longer coupler?
    Try looking at this site and at one of the later engine model numbers w/ a Duo Prop lower gear unit.
    http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...neEngines.aspx

    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

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