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  1. #1
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    Default AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

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ID:	16455Okay, new guy here, and I know this has been discussed time and again, BUT...
    i have an 1986 bayliner trophy that was given to me, I just put a new 5.7 GM Volvopenta engine in last spring, now has 60 hrs. New U joints, New center shaft bellhousing bearings at that time also.
    when turning port or starboard there is a noticeable grrr noise, not a grinding or clunking.
    so I pulled the top section of the outdrive off, the U joints are clean tight and greased, the center bellhousing shaft is clean, tight ( I inserted a bar and leveraged against the splined shaft lightly to check for any play...none. I've never owned a Volvo, allways had mercruiser drives so this a new one on me..
    any ideas before I yard out the engine again?!! Thanks for any input what so ever, I'm located 300 miles from a town so it is a calculated maneuver from here.
    Last edited by AKtundra; 09-08-2017 at 11:07 PM.

  2. #2
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    Island Heights, NJ,
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    200 series drives, in my experience make a very slight what I would call a grumbling sound when turning. Since I went thru hull with mufflers (IMHO (and tests) the thru drive exhaust system on 200 series drives has excessive back pressure) I don't hear the noise :-). FYI when I went from thru drive to thru hull/mufflers with same prop and boating conditions, I got another 450 RPM @WOT.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  3. #3
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Quote Originally Posted by sandkicker View Post
    200 series drives, in my experience make a very slight what I would call a grumbling sound when turning. Since I went thru hull with mufflers (IMHO (and tests) the thru drive exhaust system on 200 series drives has excessive back pressure) I don't hear the noise :-). FYI when I went from thru drive to thru hull/mufflers with same prop and boating conditions, I got another 450 RPM @WOT.
    I kinda exspected there to be a slight difference in sound when turning the drive, do to U joint alignment, but what I am hearing seems excessive and can be somewhat felt thru the hull.
    was wondering if anyone else has experience with this, and if it could be anything other than the shaft bearings in the bellhousing, or the U joints. They were brand new last spring 60 hrs. Ago, and although I cannot realy inspect the bellhousing bearings very well, I did lever a bar against the shaft after removing the top of the drive and U joints, it feels solid with no play, bellows is dry and U joints are tight.
    by the way, that is impressive RPM gains! I take it you went with thru hull exhaust, above or bellow waterline?
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    Last edited by AKtundra; 09-09-2017 at 01:50 PM.

  4. #4
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    I'll add that my 280 always growls when making hard turns either way, i just really watch my speed in those turns anyway. Sounds and look like the PDS and bearings are good and greased, and that would be more of a constant growl than just in turns. The only time that I had real concern (and it was really sounding unhappy), I needed to change the u-joints as they were worn. That took care of it. But you have new joints, so..

  5. #5
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks for that info. I'm just not feeling comfortable with it, so I pulled the motor yesterday and it's in my shop, will be pulling the bell housing this evening, new U joints and PDS bearings and seals on order.. if it still makes the noise after that..I'll just turn the radio up..
    i drained the oil from the drive also, and there are no metallics and no water or milky oil..
    im use to a heavier hull and with my other 28' searay, the only way I know it's in gear or turning, is it moves that way, no obvious noises. It is a flush deck, versus a partial above deck with the trophy.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Exhaust plumbed out the transom above the water line ( with flappers) at the transom "corners" via a pair of 3" lines with Centek "shorty" mufflers. Merc installation guidelines specifies as MINIMUM a single 4" dia exhaust line or a pair of 3" lines. Volvo 280 drive passages come no where near meeting that spec. Being a semi retired engineer ( and still fully professionally paranoid) I checked the back pressure and it was over 6 psi well above the MERC spec as well. IMHO, I think all Volvo cares about is that the engine does not fail during warranty period. Volvo and Merc use the same block and heads (and valves) so that same spec should apply to Volvo "manufactured" engines.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  7. #7
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Well, engine pulled, U joints are fine, bellows is dry, PDS bearings feel smooth with no play, seals good.
    parts are on order so I will replace the bearings and U joints again.
    Looks like I'll need to turn up my radio!
    Just haven't felt confident with the noise and going off shore 75-100miles... I will be taking my kicker motor!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Last gasp guess... did you use tool # 884502-6 ( alignment wedge engine to transom shield) .... or equivalent???
    Any old wedge with a similar taper and a marker will work.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  9. #9
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Is there proper preload on the drive gear bearings in the upper gearbox? I just checked you want between 2 and 3 lbs using the pull string method but in your case before yyou put the U-jonts back in spin the input spindle there should be resistance if it spins easily you need to replace the double bearings in the bearing box. Hold old is the split ring keeper for the verticle shaft? Now would be the time to upgrade the keeper it needs to be replaced after so many shift cycles? May as well cross the T`s and dot the I`s while the gearbox is out.
    Last edited by kimcrwbr1; 09-11-2017 at 11:40 PM.
    It takes a nickle to go first class!
    If it aint broke dont fix it!!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    I didnot use any alignment tool for the engine, the bellhousing with the shaft bolts to the engine block, no adjustment there possible, the bellhousing bolts to the transom mount and shield via the righ and rubber seal, no adjustment there possible, I understand alignment can be changed by the motor mounts, but if the bell housing is bolted tight to the engine, and the rear of the housing is bolted tight to the transom...seems self aligning to me?? The drive line U joint splines slide right into the PDS shaft easily...anything I need to know more so on engine alignment?

  11. #11
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks for that info, I will check that preload, the outdrive when I recieved the boat, had just been serviced by a Volvo penta shop and the receipt says new bearings and reseal?
    is the preload checked in neutral or in gear?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    So I checked the preload of the bearings in the upper box, there is a resistance and does not spin freely, but feels smooth, I will replace the splined collar internal ring, I believe it was replaced on the rebuild and sealing from the Volvo shop, but no proof of that in the receipt.
    i didn't use any alignment tool when I installed the bellhousing and engine as a unit, but I did take measurements off the tabs on the transom shield and ring at 9-3-12 o'clock . Is there any other alignment process? Not sure how a tool or wedge would be used? My bellhousing is a one piece with double bearings and PDS shaft that has to be installed before it is bolted to the engine., I used the original motor mounts and didn't adjust them, and they are bolted back into the same holes one the engine stringer blocks..

  13. #13
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    I didnot use any alignment tool for the engine, the bellhousing with the shaft bolts to the engine block, no adjustment there possible, the bellhousing bolts to the transom mount and shield via the righ and rubber seal, no adjustment there possible, I understand alignment can be changed by the motor mounts, but if the bell housing is bolted tight to the engine, and the rear of the housing is bolted tight to the transom...seems self aligning to me?? The drive line U joint splines slide right into the PDS shaft easily...anything I need to know more so on engine alignment?
    The adjustment that this tool is used for is done with the engine mounts. This adjustment controls the angle at which the drive shaft exits the transom shield. If not dead center, i.e. concentric, then the drive joints will be at a wonky angle when the drive lower unit itself is aimed straight forward and trimmed properly, and if off when straight forward could be out of normal design range angle when turning. By design the drive input ( after the u joints at the drive) moves in a certain plane vertically and horizontally. The transom side of the u joint needs to connect to the engine so that the u joint does as little "work" as possible ( over its normal steering and static trim range ( as set by the location of the cross pin on the bottom of the transom shield), and to do this, needs to be in certain alignment.... i.e. concentric.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  14. #14
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks Capt. Bob for explaining the alignment.
    i never moved the transom shield or any part of the outdrive to transom mounting, so in theory,by bolting the bell housing back up to the transom ring and having equally torqued the ring bolts to same gap around the ring at the inside of the transom... would this not properly align the engine to drive?
    i will be double checking this when I reinstall the engine.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    You would think... but given what you've done so far I ran out of ideas...
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  16. #16
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Appreciate all the helpful input!
    One more time around, new bearings, and seals, double check the alignment and will see how it goes.
    i won't be able to check the results until next spring as the boat is pulled for the winter...and is in the interior of northern Alaska .. thanks all.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Okay, new guy here, and I know this has been discussed time and again, BUT...
    i have an 1986 bayliner trophy that was given to me, I just put a new 5.7 GM Volvopenta engine in last spring, now has 60 hrs. New U joints, New center shaft bellhousing bearings at that time also.
    when turning port or starboard there is a noticeable grrr noise, not a grinding or clunking.
    so I pulled the top section of the outdrive off, the U joints are clean tight and greased, the center bellhousing shaft is clean, tight ( I inserted a bar and leveraged against the splined shaft lightly to check for any play...none. I've never owned a Volvo, allways had mercruiser drives so this a new one on me..
    any ideas before I yard out the engine again?!! Thanks for any input what so ever, I'm located 300 miles from a town so it is a calculated maneuver from here.

    OK.... what you are calling a "bell housing" is actually a "flywheel cover" in the Marine World.
    Your OEM Flywheel Cover will be red in color and will house a double-bearing PDS.
    PDS = Primary Drive Shaft.
    You should see a grease fitting at the 12:00 O'clock position just behind the Engine.

    These PDS bearings are wear items and require routine replacement.
    These bearings/seals are industry standard and can be purchased from a good bearing supplier, saving yourself some $$$$.
    You will need a 6206 and a 6007 w/ two 35x62x7mm TCM or Timken single lip seals.
    NO Chinese bearings!!!!!!!!!

    The Flywheel Cover does not need to be removed in order to replace these two bearings and seals.
    However, the Engine does need to be removed, or at least slid forward and sideways enough for access.

    Pre-fill the grease cavity prior to the AFT seal being installed. Spin the PDS while doing so.

    The AFT seal installs in the Non-Conventional direction...... lip and tension spring aiming AFT.


    What you are calling U-joints are actually "bearing crosses".
    These too are wear items and require routine replacement.
    For your Universal Drive Shaft, you can use the Spicer 5-1306X.



    My guess would be that your AFT most PDS bearing is causing the issue.


    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    The Engine alignment involves Triangulation. (see my image below)
    Alignment is done to ensure that the F/C is in-line with the transom shield, and that the inner-most rubber cushion ring makes a proper water seal.
    These two cushion rings also serves as the aft-most engine support.

    The geometry re; the Engine crankshaft, Borg Warner drive coupler, the PDS and the Universal Drive Shaft is fixed.
    Any issue regarding a slight mis-alignment will NOT cause the "grrr noise" that you allude to in post #1.



    Triangulation:
    Look for the 6 flat areas as I point out.
    There will be 3 each on the F/C and 3 each on the transom shield.
    The goal is to adjust the front area of the Engine Up/Down, and to Port/Stbd as to achieve equal distance between each two corresponding flats.

    This is done with the 6 exterior clamping collar "Tap Bolts" not yet fully tightened!

    NOTE: shown below is a later charcoal gray F/C. This unit is dimension-ally identical to your red F/C.



    .
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    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-13-2017 at 10:48 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  19. #19
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    Brooks Range, Alaska
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks Ricardo!
    so if the flywheel cover needs not to be removed but yet the engine need to be slid forward or removed?? I'm not understanding something here. In order to reach the forward most PDS bearing and seal?( I have a small block GM based V-8 engine with the single piece flywheel cover and double PDS bearings.
    i did remove the entire engine and separated the flywheel cover from the engine, removed the keeper snap rings, seals and bearings, I have a press, reinstalled new everything.. and I'm doing it again as soon as the parts show up...the PDS bearings feel smooth and tight, the grease zerk on the 12oclock possision is there, and the chamber was filled with grease before everything was closed up, the bellows are dry and new, the cross bearings or universal joints are brand new moog bearings, at that time there was also a new seal installed in the gearbox..there is approx. 60 hrs since new.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Did you replace the seal? Without the proper preload on the drive gear double bearings you will get houling from the upper gearbox same a the rear axle on a truck. If you can spin the input to the gearbox easily. While the gearbox is removed give it a once over you do not want to cook the gears or blow the vertical shaft out the top cover.
    It takes a nickle to go first class!
    If it aint broke dont fix it!!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    I have not done anything at this point other than pull the top of the drive and remove the engine to inspect bearings and seals, everything is on order and waiting for things to show up.. I realy see no reason to replace anything at this point, as it all looks and feels new.. the drive was Service just prior to me recieving the boat by a Volvo penta mechanic, reciept shows new cross bearings, tolerances checked, drive resealed and a pressure check done. Turning the input shaft has some resistance but feels smooth. I received the boat as after the service was done on the outdrive, the owner failed to properly winterize the engine and drain the manifolds. So I dropped a brand new engine in, and at that time replaced the PSD bearings and seals.
    i put 60 hrs on the boat since.. I believe it has made the noise since that point..in other words, since I have had and used it.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    If it only makes the noise when you turn it then there are only three things that can cause that. PDS bearings, crosses or double bearing box in upper gearbox. You can pull the gearbox apart all it will require is new O-rings if everything checks out. Specs call for 1.84-3.69 ft lbs using a spring pull scale for run in bearings. As I have said bearing preload is very important, I just got the sneaking suspicion that is your issue but could be wrong. You say the PDS and crosses seem fine the growl could very well be the bearing box? Also check end play on the verticle shaft in the gearbox if it is out of spec replace the split ring keeper and check it again. Anything over .020 inches and you likely have bearing issues. You can look at the manual at Boatinfo the library it will give you the info you need.
    It takes a nickle to go first class!
    If it aint broke dont fix it!!

  23. #23
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    ...........................
    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    I have not done anything at this point other than pull the top of the drive
    When you say "top of drive", are you talking about the transmission?

    and remove the engine to inspect bearings and seals,
    I've worked on the AQ series drives for 25 years or so.
    I DO NOT know of any goof-proof method for checking to see if the PDS bearings are in good condition without actually removing the PDS!
    Keep in mind that the AFT-most PDS bearing (the 6206) takes the greater load and is of more importance to be in pristine condition!


    everything is on order and waiting for things to show up..
    Just curious...... what new parts have been ordered?


    I realy see no reason to replace anything at this point, as it all looks and feels new.. the drive was Service just prior to me recieving the boat by a Volvo penta mechanic,
    Unfortunately, many of the alleged Volvo Penta mechanics these days are too young to have actual AQ series training and experience.
    No offense to any of the real AQ series guys....... but this is often the case.


    reciept shows new cross bearings, tolerances checked,
    Which tolerances?

    drive resealed and a pressure check done.

    Turning the input shaft has some resistance but feels smooth. I received the boat as after the service was done on the outdrive, the owner failed to properly winterize the engine and drain the manifolds. So I dropped a brand new engine in, and at that time replaced the PSD bearings and seals.

    i put 60 hrs on the boat since.. I believe it has made the noise since that point..in other words, since I have had and used it.

    OK..... the two back-to-back Tapered Roller Bearings (30207 and 31307) that we mention being in the BB (bearing box) are shim controlled on the 280.
    These two bearings must be checked for what we refer to as "rolling torque" value.
    If a new "main drive gear" seal was replaced, the shims are often un-touched.
    However, any mechanic worth his salt would have removed the "main drive gear" and would have looked at the 31307 rollers and outer race for signs of wear.
    If worn, he would have replaced both of them..... AND, he would have gone back through the "rolling torque" value procedure.

    I'd like to also add that "IF these two main drive gear bearings were failing, you would notice the GRR sound no matter which helm wheel position.
    In other words....... the transmission itself doesn't care if you are going straight or are making a Port or Stbd turn.
    Also check end play on the verticle shaft in the gearbox if it is out of spec replace the split ring keeper and check it again. Anything over .020 inches and you likely have bearing issues.
    Kim.... no offense, but this is not quite correct!

    The 280 transmission's vertical shaft is free to move Up/Down within specs. We could say that it "floats", so to speak!
    There is a special LH Nut at the top of this shaft that "checks" any downward force.
    At the bottom area there is a split ring keeper that "checks" any up-ward force.

    The 280 transmission's vertical shaft "split ring keeper" is brass.

    When running a LH prop or the Duo Prop lower gear unit, a FWD gear selection places an "Up-Lift" force on this shaft.
    As noted, the brass split ring keeper checks this Up-Lift force.
    Over time the brass expands.
    The result is excessive Up/Down shaft play, and if left un-attended, the brass keeper will (not may) eventually let go completely, resulting in a very expensive repair.

    NOTE: I have custom manufactured stress-proof steel split ring keepers if interested.


    Below you'll see a typical 280 vertical shaft w/ the bronze sliding sleeve.
    Note the steep spiral splines (they are just barely visible underneath the sliding sleeve).

    These splines are what cause the sleeve to pull itself into
    itself into a "selected and rotating" gear cup, of which creates full gear engagement.
    These splines also create the Up-ward or Down-ward force against the vertical shaft.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-14-2017 at 11:02 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  24. #24
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    Brooks Range, Alaska
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks a fortune for the info Kimcrwbr1,
    I am also leaning towards it being in the bearing box. I need thisboat to be reliable, ( whom doesn't I geuss!)I fish in PWS in Alaska and intend to use it for extended trips off shore to nearby islands, shrimping, halibut and salmon fishing.
    was hoping not to have to go into this deep, but do to my location, looks as though I may have to become very familiar with my Volvo drive system.. more of an engine person, and diesel at that..but have no fear of diving in to new waters.
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  25. #25
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thank you Ricardo!
    I will try to answer your Qs.
    (1) yes I was referring to the top gear box of the transmission, I did this first so that I could check the cross bearings and inspect the tail area of the Flywheel cover.

    (2) exactly the reason I purchases new PDS bearings and seals, even though I would bet the current ones are fine, I installed them myself when I put the new engine in, from what I can tell, I did it correctly, I haven't removed th PDS yet, but the shaft turns smoothly with only the grease resistance, seals appear clean. There is no back and forth play in the bearings, and no side to side play.. they are 60 hrs old.

    (3) the new parts that I have ordered are.. new cross bearings. (Moog) new seal behind the x bearings. New PDS bearings, seals and snaprings. Drive line bellows. I'm going to replace everything once again. The cross bearings and gear box seal was replaced by the shop. They appear and feel new, the bellows are dry.

    (4) as for tolerances checked by the shop, I do not know, the receipt only says ( new Universal joints and seal installed,new shift mechanism shaft seal, new O rings, tolerances checked drive resealed and pressure checked. (This was done about a year ago and the cost was at $932.00 (not that that means anything)

    Ricardo, I am leaning to believe this may well be an issue with the bearing box...although it does only make the noise while turning, in either direction, straight forward it is silent.
    There are a couple other things that I should point out, when shifting into gear, forward or reverse, at idle, there is a clunk noise, are volvos a silent shift? As I mentioned, this is my first Volvo drive, Mercruiser Alpha 1 has an inherent shift do to the gear cut and needs a shift interup switch to allow the gears to disingage.. Volvo does not...correct?
    i have checked the reverse outdrive lock, it works fine, my idle is at between 600 and 610 on digital tack. It's a carbureted engine. There is also a left hand prop installed, originally it was a right hand but I installed the left as it was brand new ( I followed the instructions under the cover to do their)
    Could this clunk while shifting noise be the exsesive vertical shaft play?
    Also seeing I'm going to be tearing this thing down, I would like to buy one of your replacement split ring keepers..how do I go about getting one?
    would gladly love to have you do a complete once over on my sterndrive!! But the shipping would be the killer.
    so it looks like I will become to know my Volvo Penta personally well.. not a bad thing, just another project along with the many I allready have.
    this is me ( www.boreallodge.com) it'll explain my location difficulties.
    very appreciative of everyone's advice here! My wife and I only have short windows to be able to enjoy getting out on a boat, it's best that it works the way it is suppose to!
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  26. #26
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    If you'd care to, shoot me a PM with your phone number and the best time to talk!


    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    PM sent
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,191

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    ..............................

    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    Thank you Ricardo!
    You are very welcome!

    I will try to answer your Qs.
    (1) yes I was referring to the top gear box of the transmission,
    The very upper unit is the "transmission"!

    I did this first so that I could check the Bearing Crosses and inspect the tail area of the Flywheel cover.

    (2) exactly the reason I purchases new PDS bearings and seals, even though I would bet the current ones are fine, I installed them myself when I put the new engine in, from what I can tell, I did it correctly, I haven't removed th PDS yet, but the shaft turns smoothly with only the grease resistance, seals appear clean. There is no back and forth play in the bearings, and no side to side play.. they are 60 hrs old.
    That sounds good!


    (3) the new parts that I have ordered are.. new Bearing Crosses. (Moog) new seal behind the x bearings.
    Please explain seal behind the x bearings!

    New PDS bearings, seals and snaprings. Drive line bellows. I'm going to replace everything once again. The Bearing Crosses and gear box seal was replaced by the shop. They appear and feel new, the bellows are dry.

    (4) as for tolerances checked by the shop, I do not know, the receipt only says ( new Universal joints and seal installed,new shift mechanism shaft seal, new O rings, tolerances checked drive resealed and pressure checked. (This was done about a year ago and the cost was at $932.00 (not that that means anything)

    Ricardo, I am leaning to believe this may well be an issue with the bearing box... although it does only make the noise while turning, in either direction, straight forward it is silent.
    As I've said....... I do not believe that the BB is causing this.

    Let's look at it from a gear set's prospective.
    If you were a well designed hypoid gear set, and if you were first-in-line for a several hundred horse power reduction, and if bearings were questionable and if your tolerances were Out-Of-Whack enough to cause an audible noise....... how long would you last under these conditions before you "self destructed" ?????

    Another possibility:
    As the drive articulates (Port or Stbd turn) a side-load force is created that will push the Main Suspension Fork more firmly against the Transom Shield.
    This alone will cause a change to the way in which normal and acceptable vibrations will transmit themselves through the stern drive components!



    There are a couple other things that I should point out, when shifting into gear, forward or reverse, at idle, there is a clunk noise, are volvos a silent shift?
    The cone clutch engagement itself will be very silent.
    However, when the propeller begins to pull AFT-wards, the thrust wants to raise the drive UP.
    If your latch hook points are not crisp and clean......... that is likely causing the "clunk" that you hear.



    As I mentioned, this is my first Volvo drive, Mercruiser Alpha 1 has an inherent shift do to the gear cut and needs a shift interup switch to allow the gears to disingage..
    That is correct...... and it is a silly feature but it is necessary for a Dog Clutch system!

    Volvo does not...correct?
    Correct!
    The shift shoe groove in the sliding sleeve is cut eccentrically.
    This eccentric cut causes a mild hammering affect as the shoe attempts to disengage the sliding sleeve from either gear cup.


    i have checked the reverse outdrive lock, it works fine, my idle is at between 600 and 610 on digital tack. It's a carbureted engine. There is also a left hand prop installed, originally it was a right hand but I installed the left as it was brand new ( I followed the instructions under the cover to do their)
    Could this clunk while shifting noise be the exsesive vertical shaft play?
    My I assume that you are referring to the transmission's vertical shaft?
    If so, I would have to say NO!


    Also seeing I'm going to be tearing this thing down, I would like to buy one of your replacement split ring keepers..how do I go about getting one?
    You would shoot me a PM with your info!

    would gladly love to have you do a complete once over on my sterndrive!! But the shipping would be the killer.
    so it looks like I will become to know my Volvo Penta personally well.. not a bad thing, just another project along with the many I allready have.
    this is me ( www.boreallodge.com) it'll explain my location difficulties.
    very appreciative of everyone's advice here! My wife and I only have short windows to be able to enjoy getting out on a boat, it's best that it works the way it is suppose to!
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 09-19-2017 at 10:52 AM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Brooks Range, Alaska
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    Thanks Ricardo!
    sorry I wasn't avalible to take your call, my work pulls me away from utilitie... and haven't been able to come in till late evenings.
    I did manage to replace the flywheel bearings and seals...the other ones were fine. In the attempt to remove the 4 Allen headed screws/bolts to remove the yoke to replace the bearing crosses, one broke off inside the upper box, I was able to remove two of them, one is at the point of the head stripping off and one allready broke off, aparently the shop used red loctite when they reassembled the unit...there was pink powdered residue filling the threads of the two I was able to remove. I applied heat to the side of the case or gear box and bolts but they still wouldn't let lose.i went through everything else including the reverse lock mechanism and everything seems fine and crisp.
    long story short, I have a new reman upper gear box transmission that should be here in the next few days.(.not from the shop whom did the original service) Along with a 280 DP lower (1996 1.95 dp-c1) that I am planning to convert my now SP to duoprop, in hopes of aliviating the steering torque, get a little better economy and better control inside a crowded harbor and at the dock.
    not sure if I should start another thread on this part? But now am wondering what prop set would be best to start with on my setup? It is a 24 foot bayliner trophy, my normal loaded weight is somewhere in the ball park of 4500 pounds. It has a fresh 5.7 gm based Volvo penta engine, said to have a hp rating of 315, but in a marine world I am thinking more on the side of 260-280 hp @ wot. Rpm of 4200. Would I be correct on that?
    was thinking to start with a B-3 or B-4 series.
    any insight on this would be appreciated.
    Again, thanks everyone for the input.
    1977 searay 270 fly bridge
    5.7 mercruiser, alpha 1 drive
    1986 bayliner trophy,
    Alaska bulk head
    5.7 Volvo penta
    280sp drive

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,191

    Default Re: AQ 280 noise while turning port or starboard

    ............................
    Quote Originally Posted by AKtundra View Post
    Thanks Ricardo!
    You are welcome!


    I did manage to replace the flywheel bearings and seals...
    That would be "Flywheel Cover"!

    the other ones were fine. In the attempt to remove the 4 Allen headed screws/bolts to remove the yoke to replace the bearing crosses, one broke off inside the upper box, I was able to remove two of them, one is at the point of the head stripping off and one allready broke off, aparently the shop used red loctite when they reassembled the unit...there was pink powdered residue filling the threads of the two I was able to remove. I applied heat to the side of the case or gear box and bolts but they still wouldn't let lose.i went through everything else including the reverse lock mechanism and everything seems fine and crisp.
    OK..... if this is a Pre-A drive transmission........ this is a very common mistake, even made by alleged Volvo Penta mechanics.

    The Pre-A drive clamping collar cap screws are what we refer to as "wet area" threads. (Look at how the threads are exposed to the seawater!!!!!!)
    Heat at the main gear case is absolutely necessary when attempting to remove all four of these cap screws!

    NOTE: each clamping collar bolt bore offers a very delicate aluminum shoulder.
    DO NOT....... Repeat.... DO NOT attempt to drill out the remaining fragments of the cap screws!!!!!
    You now need to take the transmission to a machinist and milling machine.
    The operator will secure the gear case to the work table, and will use a straight flute cutter to carefully remove all but 1/2" of the cap screw!
    He will not even touch the delicate shoulders!

    Once this is done, the collar will come off leaving enough of the bolt to grab onto and remove.

    long story short, I have a new reman upper gear box transmission that should be here in the next few days. (not from the shop whom did the original service)
    May I ask who did the re-man on this new one???

    Along with a 280 DP lower (1996 1.95 dp-c1) that I am planning to convert my now SP to duoprop, in hopes of aliviating the steering torque, get a little better economy and better control inside a crowded harbor and at the dock.
    Make certain that you get a "long spline coupler" for the later C1 lower unit.
    (the 280 spline coupler is too short)



    not sure if I should start another thread on this part? But now am wondering what prop set would be best to start with on my setup? It is a 24 foot bayliner trophy, my normal loaded weight is somewhere in the ball park of 4500 pounds. It has a fresh 5.7 gm based Volvo penta engine, said to have a hp rating of 315, but in a marine world I am thinking more on the side of 260-280 hp @ wot. Rpm of 4200. Would I be correct on that?
    Yes..... there is a common misnomer regarding horse power ratings.
    The 315 hp SBC was rated at/near 5,200 to 5,400 RPM.
    I know of no one who operates his or her Marine SBC cruiser engine @ 5,200 RPM!!!!!!!



    was thinking to start with a B-3 or B-4 series.
    Yes..... it will be trial and error just like with your s/p drive.
    The target will be your OEM WOT RPM!
    The boat must be loaded as you would normally!


    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

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