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No power to ignition or acc switches. Power to trim up/down

Aboren33

New member
This will be my first post. I was out on the lake today and my motor ran fine. Stopped to take the kids swimming and shut the boat off. I went to start it back up and nothing happened. No gauges, blower, radio, or horn. But my trim up and down worked. So I knew I had good batteries. Checked all the fuses under the dash. I am curious if it is in my throttle/ shifter. I have two yellow and blackish/brownish wires hanging out by the kill switch but I don't know where they go. I pulled the kill switch out and it had two wires already going into it. I did try and push the throttle down further and I was thinking I pulled those wires out. Is there somewhere on the forward/reverse selector that these would go into? And if those weren't plugged in could it be causing my issues that I am experiencing? That's really the only thing I can think of that is different. I am going to follow the electrical wiring tomorrow, but if this is something I should look at please let me know. Any other suggestions would be helpful.

My boat is a 1995 four winns with an OMC 5.0 cobra
 
Check the fuse for the ignition circuit; it can look good but the contacts in the fuse box could be oxidized and current will not pass. I had this same issue a few years back on my '88 Four Winns. Replaced all the fuses ckeaned contacts and back in business....
 
the throttle/shift lever lockout wont have anything to do with the total power loss, but will only lock out the engine crank/start...

there may be a bigger fuse in the engine bay, in the wire that goes to the dash. look for an 8-10gauge red wire, then search it for a fuse.

the trim tilt harness carries its own power, so that is why it works when nothing else does..

but when looking for a faulty fuse, DONT overlook a bad wire connection.... and it doesnt have to be a bad connection on the HOT wire, as a bad ground connection is usually the culprit when electrical gremlins start showing up..
 
There is a fuse in the engine a small wire on the same side of the battery pos cable. It supplies power to the ignition switch. You do not want to run accessories off of the engine circuit. Run two 10 guage wires directly to the battery from the helm and add a fuse block with a master power switch. Are the acceries wired from the controls? That connector is for the tach and guages only. You want the lights and accesories to be indepent of the engine circuit. If you add a house corcuit be sure and fuse the pos wire at the battery. A fuse block with a grounding bar makes it alot easier to add accesories and not trip the engine fuse.
 
Before you start running wires all over the place get an AVO meter to see if there is power getting to the ignition switch, if there is not, then as the previous contributer said, check the fuse in the engine compartment. The two wires hanging down have to be checked as to where they have come from as a normal wiring loom does not have spare wires when designed for your remotes. As said before your tilt/trim has its own power which is nothing to do with your start/run system. Depending how old your system is, corrosion on or in the ignition switch or the the wires connected to it could be the cause. so check continuity between terminals and wiring. If it was working before it can't be that serious. \best of luck...
 
Had the same problem on almost same drive package before. Turned out the safety lanyard switch was open, but you really need to find out where those mystery wires do... good luck
 
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