Milky Oil now runs rough. BF225

2005 BF225 700 hours

Over the last few trips I have noticed I am using a little more fuel then usual. Last trip out I had a noticeable reduction in power. My port motor was running at maybe 25-50% less power. On plane you can even see a difference in the amount of water coming off the prop. Also sounded like it was missing a little bit.

Got it home and first thing checked the spark plugs. Bought boat in march with 500 hours and no idea when the plugs were done last. pulled the plugs and 5 had some carbon build up and 1 was wet with oil I think. Start calling stores and cant find the NGK. The Delco's look different so I ended up buying the autolite plugs. I had a charter today so needed it to work at least for a day until I can get the NGK's. Start up the motor after replacing plugs and where the hose for the pee line hooks to the outlet on the block was disconnected. This is very close to the intake. Then I check the oil and its VERY milky. I think it was from the water spraying by the intake and getting sucked in. Did 4 oil changes to clean it out and ran it on a trip today. After the trip the oil is nice and clean so it must have been that hose. But still sounds like its missing and loss of power

Just did a compression test and it ranged from 175-182psi. Is that good?

If that good then mechanically the motor is likely ok right? I thinking the water damaged a sensor or something. I know I once sucked a bunch of water into a landrover and damaged the mass airflow sensor.

Another thing to note. When at idle when I first started it this morning after a little while the red light on the key came on with a alarm. Was steady on. Then when warming up the motors for the compression test it came on again. I just restart and light goes away.

Also a note. When I did the compression test I did not disconnect the fuel pump and give it full throttle like the directions state.

Any thoughts? Because the light came on can I get it scanned and then can tell me what it is or does the light have to be on when hooked to the scanner.

Having a wet plug with the others dry, would tell me to go check the spark on all the cylinders to ensure you have that. A loss of one cylinder on that size of engine would probably be similar to the loss of power you experienced.

First thing is to pull the codes. Then clear the codes, warm up the engine again and pull any new codes. I think I sent you the procedure for doing that and w document showing what the codes mean, but if not, send me an e-mail at [email protected].

Which red light came on - MIL, AGC, or overheat? Was the alarm constant, or long intermittent, or short intermittent? Did the green oil pressure light stay on?

Plugs look a bit cruddy, but not awful. Get the new NGK's in there as soon as possible.

The compression test numbers are not too bad, but aren't that good either. Retake the compression with the throttle wide open and the kill switch activated. At some point, you might need to decarb the engine. But get it running right, first.

I agree with eneusiis, the oil wet plug could be a misfiring plug or bad coil. Hope that's all because the other causes are a blown head gasket or broken ring. If you know someone with the equipment, a leak down test would tell you.

Have you changed the high pressure fuel filter lately? If it's got more than 200 hours on it, or if you don't know, change it.

Water in the oil is a problem. I would be looking for a rot hole in a cylinder head.

Just did some testing with the codes. First pulled the current codes. Got code 1, 3, 13,24,25. Cleared codes and started motor. After about 5 minutes at idle there is a drop in rpms quickly recovered and the check engine light came on. The light on lower right that looks like a engine. The light was solid on and a long beep that was constantly on. Restarted and light was off. Pulled code again and now only got code 1. Under that code I think is a misfire or O2 sensor. If I was to take it to a shop could they tell me which cylinder? I have twins so I can rob a coil from the other motor to figure it out. I think I would start with the plug that was wet.

Thoughts?

Agree - start with the cylinder that was wet. If that doesn't do it, then change coil on each cylinder one at a time. If that doesn't fix it, do the same thing with a known good plug.

A code "1" can also be fuel pressure out of specification. When was the HP fuel filter last changed? If it's got more than 200 hours on it, or if you don't know, change it.

Well trying a good coil from other motor didn't work. reved up a bit and you hear faint popping. The plugs are all new so not sure that would be causing it.

No idea when the fuel filter was done. I do know I have put around 200 hours on it so I guess it needs to be done.

Are you still getting a code 1? Give some more detail on that "popping." Is it constant or random? At what RPM do you detect it? If you have a stethoscope available, see if you can identify if it as coming from one particular cylinder.

Since your problems started with the disconnected water flow indicator that flooded the engine compartment, I still suspect that you have an electrical or sensor problem. But I'm sort of lost on where to look. I guess I would start by going through every electrical and sensor connector I could find and spray it down with electric cleaner to dissipate any water that could have possibly gotten into the plug.

Let us know if there is any improvement with the new HP fuel filter.

If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you might also want to check the fuel pressure. There is an access bolt of the top of the HP fuel filter cover - called the fuel pressure relieve bolt. Fuel pressure should be between 42 and 49 PSI at idle. Item 40 at:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...05/BF225A5 LA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY/parts.html

If the popping is consistent, there is an outside chance that your values may need to be readjusted. Setting valves on this engine is a PITA. If you have the Helm shop manual, the procedure is described on pages 3-6 thru 3-9. Valves should be checked every 400 hours. If memory is still good, the valves on my BF 225 didn't need adjustment until about 1000 hours. Had a shop adjust again at 1950 hours while I was laid up. I would try to eliminate most other stuff before going down that road.

I was able to find a shop to take it in and look at it today. Its a Honda shop so they have the computer to get more info.

There as lots of moister many of the plugs. that little port sure pumps a lot of water. Luckily freshwater

I will follow up with what they find.

Well they checked it out with the computer and say there is a problem with the O2 sensor. New Sensors come in today and I hope its that easy of a fix but I don't think that's all there is. The motor clearly misfires and I don't think that a O2 sensor can cause that right? The shop doesn't have the best reputation but they were the only ones that could get right on it.

Crossing my fingers. I just need it to get me through September. Then going to repower. Maybe premature repowering at 700 hours but they are 12 years old but the boat is used for business and downtime can cost me a lot of money especially if it happens in the spring when all the shops are backed up 1 to 2 months.

Well,

I think we already knew that it was likely a faulty HO2 sensor. The shop just confirmed the obvious. They should have also checked the fuel pressure. What about the other questions I asked concerning the location of the "popping noise", at what rpm, whether random or constant. Any improvement with the new HP fuel filter?

BTW - IMO it doesn't matter if the engines are 12 years old. Or have only 700 hours. They are likely very fixable and will save you a lot of dough if you can find a competent tech to do it.

chawk_man said:

Well,

I think we already knew that it was likely a faulty HO2 sensor. The shop just confirmed the obvious. They should have also checked the fuel pressure. What about the other questions I asked concerning the location of the "popping noise", at what rpm, whether random or constant. Any improvement with the new HP fuel filter?

Click to expand...

Im not sure what they have checked beyond the O2 sensor. I called a little bit ago and they were still waiting for the sensor to be delivered but in the meantime they said they are diagnosing a problem with Cylinder 1. The others appear to be fine. Said its not a coil or spark. To me that leaves a bad injector if all the others are operating properly?

The popping is very faint. Here is a video of it. You can see the motor is running a little off and if you listen close you can hear the faint POP right around 8 seconds. It happens at a little higher RPM's. RPM Gauge doesnt work so im gussing around 2500rpms and continues. It happens a few times a second. The other motor is smooth as silk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N6M0ttzbRY&

Can't hear the popping. No matter. What about replacing the HP filter and fuel pressure?

I did tell them about the fuel pressure and filters and they said they would check that.

Last night they said the injector on cylinder 1 was not working at all. They are going to replace the injector and hopefully that solves the issue. Once I get it back I'm going to go through and change out all the filters when I can.

Its very possible that these motors will last for many many years. Problem is I rely on this boat for work and time off the water really hurts the pocket. Its kind of a low period right now in marine service but in the spring and early summer its 4 to 8 weeks to get service. I doubt a large failure would happen but something as simple as a injector or bad connection can cost me $1,000's in lost business.

Roger that. Understand the economic issue.

FYI, based on posts to this forum (or the lack thereof) it seems that the 250's are experiencing fewer issues than the 225's although inspecting the parts diagrams, it looks like they both have exactly the same fuel-feed system. The one item I have noticed on the 250's is that the mechanical shift system seems to be a bit bulky. Most are opting for the electrical shifting system. Search this forum for details.

Update. Just got boat back.

Fuel PSI he said was good and at 85psi (I think). Fuel filters looked good. He replaced the fuel injector in cylinder 1. Motor runs MUCH better. Still need to sea trial but I can notice a difference so hopefully its resolved.

Now the odd thing. Before I brought him the motor I did a compression test and all cylinders were 175 to 181psi. I tested it with the motor warm but not with full throttle. Not sure how he tested but his numbers were 143, 140,183, 137, 185, 130. Not sure what to make of that. I'm going to probable test again but I sure hope my numbers are correct.

chawk_man said:

Roger that. Understand the economic issue.

FYI, based on posts to this forum (or the lack thereof) it seems that the 250's are experiencing fewer issues than the 225's although inspecting the parts diagrams, it looks like they both have exactly the same fuel-feed system. The one item I have noticed on the 250's is that the mechanical shift system seems to be a bit bulky. Most are opting for the electrical shifting system. Search this forum for details.

Click to expand...

Ya not sure what I will do next. Mercury is really the best option if I am looking for options to get it serviced but seem like the worst for reliability. I would like to have 250s for sure. Yamaha to much money. Suzuki is SO much cheaper then everything and about the same service as Hondas in my area. Hondas I really like but again service is tough. Going Tohatsu is a much better option then hondas because as I understand it its the same motor but there are only 3 Honda service centers in my area but Tohatsu there are over 10 and many bigger shops. Just not sure of a cheap place to get them.

My other thought is I need a new personal boat in the 21' range so maybe buy one with a Honda 225 and I can use that as a spare motor.

Recheck the fuel pressure with the folks that did it. It should be between 42 and 49 psi. Those compression numbers look really wacky. If they are correct, the engine should not be hardly running at all.