Kill switch not working!!!!!!!

Hello everyone! I hope there is someone that can help me. I have a quicksilver commander 3000 control. I realized my kill switch is not working. I stared my mariner 115 up and looked down and my lanyard was not connected. Shut motor down with key and tried it again, motor fired right up with switch in the off position. Checked switch with meter and when closed got continuity and when open didn't. checked harnesses all the the way up to key ignition and got the same thing. That means there okay right?

So now i'm stuck. Does this mean key ignition is bad, but key ignition does cut motor off, kill switch is just not cutting motor off. What should I check next??

Would appreciate if anybody can help!!!!

The first thing I would check is for a busted wire up or down stream of your kill switch.

The kill switch turns the motor off by "going to ground" when either you push in the switch or the lanyard key gets pulled.

Your tests indicate the switch itself is doing what it's supposed to do.

So check the ground, since the feed from your keyswitch is showing good.

So I checked for busted wire couldn't find one. I have two wire harnesses leading to ignition. Took each apart leading to ignition put multi-meter probes into black and black/yellow slots. Flipped kill switch got the same readings. Took black and black/yellow wire off ignition flipped the switch got the same reading i got on all of them. Does that mean theirs no brake in the wires from switch to ignition since i'm getting good reading all the way up to ignition? I'm sorry how do I test the ground.

They don't last forever. Just had to replace mine, but it dies in the engine OFF mode.

Jeff

You can test the ground wire to a "known" good ground - and you are just looking for continuity. So while it may be a bit of a stretch with the leads you want to make sure you have continuity between the down stream side (black) of your kill switch and the engine block.

Since the motor is turning off when you turn the keyswitch to "off", and you say the kill switch appears to be working properly - tested no continuity in normal position and continuity when activated, then it really sounds like you have an issue with the (black) ground lead going from the kill switch back to wherever it's supposed to go to ground. Nothing else makes sense "unless" the "hot power" is not getting over to the kill switch in the first place (can't kill what isn't there)...