'65 Chrysler 20 HP Problems

Hi all,

I have a '65 Chrysler 20 HP tiller drive outboard motor for a Jon boat. Hasn't been run in a while but fired right up a couple years ago when I was trying to start messing with it. Haven't had time since really. The issue with this motor is after running it for a while and turning it off, you have to wait for it to cool down for it to fire again. I've heard coils might be the issue here and if they are, would good coils from any motor work or would I need to find some specific to this motor? Also, any other ideas of what the issue might be are welcomed!

Thanks in advance.

are you sure it's pumping water? anything that hasn't run in that amount of time would NEED an impeller if nothing else... my guess is it will start run then get hot and then not start... because it's HOT coils do get hot and break down but it is not that common... would be simple to see if you are getting spark when you try to restart...

ponyl might have something there??
Getting too hot?
I bought a heat gun on Amazon $16
It's one of the best tools I've bought in YEARS!!

There is a way to change over some of the older ignition systems to a single auto coil.
Google and over on iboats Force forum there is a guy who can tell you how or get you a link.

funny... (ok coincidence) today cutting grass i have an old 721 grasshopper zero turn mower 3cyl gas kabota engine... all season and maybe some of last years... it'd run great for 20 min or so and then it'd feel like it was loading up like it was on choke... it's then clear up and run fine for 3 min then repete ... then it just quit and would not restart.... I've been thinking it was fuel related but my OWN rule is 90% of the time when you think it's fuel... it's ignition, so i'm now thinking the coil is getting hot... I pull the plugs # 3 looks perfect light brown dry as a bone, ( i was expecting flooded) same thing on # 2 #1 is more blackish and wet ish HMMMM
the plugs are pretty new... I look and see #1 is gapped at about .035 while 2 & 3 are like .080 so i close the gap down to about .o35 on all... cranks right up and runs better than it has all year finished up cutting never missing a beat
just a thought

Fixed an old rider and a I was working on it.Sold it.
The new owner changed the plug and dropped it as he put it in.
Ran like crap.
The drop closed the electrode to touching and it would start and run bad.
Reset and it ran great.

75%(???) of Force motors use gapless plug.