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  1. #1

    Default kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Did anyone ever experience compressor problems? I am having trouble with mine, black smoke and whistling sounds when super is running. no black smoke once I'm up on plane around 2800 rpms though. Turbo kicks in and no smoke. My belts are new and tight. could i be having clutch problems and if so how do i tell if its just the clutch and not the compressor. I am also having trouble finding out the metric size for the studs used to mount on the clutch as an aid to hold the clutch stable while removing the center screw. Any help would be appreciated. My compressor part number is 3581061

  2. #2
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    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Have you watched to make sure that the clutch is engaging? The electronic control circuits can fail meaning that the clutch doesn't get engaged. Was a common issue on our KAD32's until we did an aftermarket fix to improve the Volvo circuit. Volvos explanation for the control circuits failing was that we were running the engines on the superchargers too much. Bit of an issue in rough weather unless you like launching out of waves at 15 to 20knts or crawling uncontrollably along at 5knts with the superchargers kicking in and out as you surf on waves. The actual real solution was to put switches in the clutch feeds so you could keep the superchargers turned off when you didn't want them. Simple fix that significantly improved the handling in rough weather.

  3. #3

    Thumbs up Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Quote Originally Posted by aliboy View Post
    Have you watched to make sure that the clutch is engaging? The electronic control circuits can fail meaning that the clutch doesn't get engaged. Was a common issue on our KAD32's until we did an aftermarket fix to improve the Volvo circuit. Volvos explanation for the control circuits failing was that we were running the engines on the superchargers too much. Bit of an issue in rough weather unless you like launching out of waves at 15 to 20knts or crawling uncontrollably along at 5knts with the superchargers kicking in and out as you surf on waves. The actual real solution was to put switches in the clutch feeds so you could keep the superchargers turned off when you didn't want them. Simple fix that significantly improved the handling in rough weather.
    Thank you very much for the reply. I have heard about the switches and that they are not a simple install, however I am an accomplished tech and would be able to do this. Do you know of a kit from Volvo for this?
    I also recently, since i first posted that my main belt had been slipping and all along thinking it was the compressor belt. Tightened both belts, actually replacing the main belt and it seems to be running quite well now also the circuit breaker for the compressor had been tripped, this is before i changed the belt. Do you know what would make it trip?

  4. #4

    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Also the super is kicking in an out at the correct RPMS around 1400-2800, then of coarse the turbo picking up after that.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    I forgot about the slipping belts. That was another common issue. Normally spot it first due to the 'belt dust' around the front of the engine or hear a 'squeal'. The switch is actually a very simple $10 install. All you need to do is cut the wire to the clutch in a place where you can connect in a pair of wires. Take the pair up to your helm position and connect them to a basic on/off switch. When the switch is off there is no clutch activation. Really simple. Not sure about the current required and possible volt drop issues if your helm is away from the engine so I suggest using 2.5mmsq wire rather than anything too light gauge.

    Sooner or later you will probably notice that the supercharger starts to kick in and out a bit around 2800rpm as you speed up. This is usually a sign that your turbo exhaust housing has worn and you are getting low boost from the turbo. That is another unique issue symptom that you get on these Volvo super/turbo engines.

  6. #6

    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Attachment 16203 Obviously you only cut one of the wires and not both correct ? Please see image that Iv'e attached. I could surely use this especially in rough seas as you stated. Also the turbo charger housing adjacent to turbine blade is pretty scuffed up and not a smooth area, i tried scraping this corrosion off but cannot get all of it. Any fix for this besides replacement? I have learned a lot talking to you and I thank you for your input.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Your picture is correct. Try and identify which is the +ve wire and put the switch in that lead. If you are getting your WOT rpms and not getting black smoke at normal cruise rpms then your turbo is probably still OK. You can always put a boost gauge on the inlet manifold to check the boost if you want too, The normal solution according to Volvo is to replace the turbo. The cheaper solution is to find a replacement exhaust housing (the corroded part) and fit that (10 minutes work once the turbo is off the engine). Finding the replacement exhaust housing can be an issue though as Volvo won't usually supply them. The turbo isn't usually a Volvo specific part though so use a turbo spe******t to look for parts rather than via Volvo. Where I live there are also companies that machine out the housing and fit CNC cut inserts to replace the corroded area. These are usually better quality and last better than the original metal. They have a business doing this because the housings corroding is so common and Volvo won't sell the replacement housings as a separate part.
    Another issue you may come across if the engine sits idle for a long period is that the supercharger can seize up. We had this once and Volvo told us that the supercharger was an unserviceable part and we had to buy a complete new one. Took 2 of us about 5 hours to strip and service the 'unservicable' supercharger. They are tricky to do as the clearances between the rotors are so tight that you need to be very careful to mark the gear alignments when you strip it down. Do that and it is probably only a 3 to 4 hour service. The end result for us as that years of 'gunk' had settled on the rubberised rotors and stuck them together. We could have fixed it with a chemical wash through the rotors once the supercharger was off the engine but we didn't know that and ended up completely disassembling it instead.

  8. #8

    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Hi Aliboy, as an update to the last post, i sent a diagram of the wiring that I was going to apply to my supercharger so it will not kick in if you aren't going to get up to cruising speed as in a rough sea. Anyhow i put a switch on the dash with the wiring to the red wire going to the supercharger, in other words breaking only the red wire. Now i do not have any supercharger at all so i removed the wiring temporarily till i figure it out? Do you think maybe there is too much resistance now in the system? Its weird and when i flip the switch before the engine is warmed up, ( idling ), it wants to kill the engine. Any thoughts?

  9. #9
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    Default Re: kamd 300 supercharger, clutch problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigvtwin1 View Post
    Hi Aliboy, as an update to the last post, i sent a diagram of the wiring that I was going to apply to my supercharger so it will not kick in if you aren't going to get up to cruising speed as in a rough sea. Anyhow i put a switch on the dash with the wiring to the red wire going to the supercharger, in other words breaking only the red wire. Now i do not have any supercharger at all so i removed the wiring temporarily till i figure it out? Do you think maybe there is too much resistance now in the system? Its weird and when i flip the switch before the engine is warmed up, ( idling ), it wants to kill the engine. Any thoughts?
    Sorry but I only just spotted this post. Did you get it sorted? It could be that your wire is too light gauge so run a temporary feed of larger wire across the floor (5 minutes work) to check if the supercharger will come on if you twist the two wire ends together (that checks if the switch might be the problem). The circuit is pretty basic so should be easy to sort out.
    If you are into electronic design at all the aftermarket fix to make the supercharger controller more robust is to fit an extra (larger) power transistor or SCR etc on the output cct with a decent heat sink. It is usually the internal output that eventually burns out. A simple relay with some spark suppression connected to the output can do a similar thing as well but might be harder to mount inside the control box.

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