Bravo 3 Outdrive - Trim Sender & Limit Switch / Power Trim Tilt Relays

Bravo 3 Outdrive - Trim Sender & Limit Switch / Power Trim Tilt Relays

Hi I have a 2006 Bravo 3 Outdrive

I noticed the my Trailer Switch (WHITE) is working up to lift the outdrive.
and my trim Switch (Black) is only tilting down, when pressed (by itself) the up is only working when I have the Trailer Switch (WHITE) Pressed.

The Trim Tilt (BLACK) is supposed to work on its own, to prevent over tilting when in water

My Outdrive looks clean, I keep it out of the water.

I removed and cleaned the contacts on my Trim Sender & Limit Switch for the Port side, and the Starboard sides. The wiring looks good, and the contacts look good. I removed some grease, and went over the contacts with fine set/dry sand paper. So it looks like the contacts are not the problem.

Power Trim Tilt Relays: I looked at my outdrive power trim pump, all looks clean and has no corrosion.

Checked my Trim and Trailer Switch and both have good contacts.
Trim Switch (BLACK)
Trailer Trim Switch (WHITE)

I jumped the wires on the Trim Switch (BLACK) to make it go down,
but when I jump wires in the (BLACK) Trim Switch to make it go up, it does not move the lower unit?

Not sure what that means yet?


Does anyone know what I should check or replace?

Trim Sender & Limit Switch ?
Power Trim Tilt Relays ?


I am not sure what to check next?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Typically what your symptoms suggest is the trim limit switch is malfunctioned.


One test would be to find the wires coming from that trim limit switch.

There should be a location near the trim pump where two wires come from the transom area [black wires] and connect to three wires from the trim / trim pump wire harness.

I believe these wires from the wire harness side are blue or blue with white stripe in color.


If you disconnect the the connectors, Jump the wire harness side (Not the transom wires side [two black wires]) this will eliminate the trim switch on out drive and the trim up button should now raise the outdrive all the way up. No interruptions.

You can see if adjusting the limit switch over comes this issue but, typically this means the trim limit switch is bad/defective, even though you say it looks ok.

Hi Jack,

OK I will try to Jump the wires from the harness side.
if the trim then moves up and down, then I guess it is the trim limit switch?

I am not sure what Can go bad in the limit switch, it looks like they are just contacts? what can go bad?

however something went bad, so this is a process of elimination.
I agree it sounds like the limit switch.

RE: Relays, I do not think they are bad, or the trim would not work with the Trim and Trailer Switches Pressed. Right?

I will post what I find out shortly.

Thanks
Sam

Are they relays or solenoids?

And yes, they would not work at all if bad.

What goes bad in the switch?
Well good questions........typically what I have seen is the contacts stop contacting.............one way or another.

The trim limit switch is nothing more than a rotary on/off switch.

kghost said:

Are they relays or solenoids?

And yes, they would not work at all if bad.

What goes bad in the switch?
Well good questions........typically what I have seen is the contacts stop contacting.............one way or another.

The trim limit switch is nothing more than a rotary on/off switch.

Click to expand...

Yes I meant solenoids.

I just went up on the boat and jumped the Purple Wire and The Blue and White Wire. and it did the trick, worked both up and down with the (Black) Trim Switch.

So Now I will order some new Trim Sender and Limit Kit.

I seen on youtube that there are two ways of installing the wiring throw the Stern.
One way is to remove the outdrive (Not what I want to tackle)

and the other was to drill a hole through the stern and then drill a hole through the outdrive to run the wiring up to the stern hole.
Like This video shows
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q70Fc2gWgZQ

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Sam

It is possble to replace the limit switch but you need a swivel socket ,a universal joint and socket will work but a swivel is easier .Hardest job is accessing the bolt(s) .
The downside to that repair is the copper wires eventually corrode away and leave the insulation with the holes to leak into the boat.

Bt Doctur said:

It is possble to replace the limit switch but you need a swivel socket ,a universal joint and socket will work but a swivel is easier .Hardest job is accessing the bolt(s) .
The downside to that repair is the copper wires eventually corrode away and leave the insulation with the holes to leak into the boat.

Click to expand...

Have you seen any replacing instructions video showing accessing the bolts etc?

Thanks

Do not drill.....anything!!!!!
Buy new trim limt switch.....measure about 3-4 inches away from current one.
Cut wires staggered about two inches apart
This will allow two but connectors to be installed but be away from each other.
Go to auto or marine store and buy some butt connectors that can be heated and shrink/adhear (glue is heat activated) to wires. Splice new wires in. No polarity...so either wire to either wire.
This is a short cut and not the approved method!!!!
At some point it should be done correctly, total replacement.

kghost said:

Do not drill.....anything!!!!!
Buy new trim limt switch.....measure about 3-4 inches away from current one.
Cut wires staggered about two inches apart
This will allow two but connectors to be installed but be away from each other.
Go to auto or marine store and buy some butt connectors that can be heated and shrink/adhear (glue is heat activated) to wires. Splice new wires in. No polarity...so either wire to either wire.
This is a short cut and not the approved method!!!!
At some point it should be done correctly, total replacement.

Click to expand...

Jack are you talking about using the butt connectors on the outdrive side where the wiring goes through the outside of the boats stern? To eliminate uunbolting the wiring?

Thanks
Sqam

I took a hard look at the lower unit and it Looks like I should be able to get to the out-drive wiring bolt with a swivel socket extension.

When the new Mercruiser OEM Trim/Tilt Sending Unit Limit Sender Kit comes in, I will post the outcome. Thanks for your help

Still not sure how to post pics on this forum?

self-maintained-boater said:

Jack are you talking about using the butt connectors on the outdrive side where the wiring goes through the outside of the boats stern? To eliminate uunbolting the wiring?

Thanks
Sqam

Click to expand...

Yes..

from the original trim limit rotary switch, you could splice in the new one about 3-4 inches away from switch as mentioned.

Again this is not the normal fix only a "quick fix" that can last years........if done correctly.

Typically the wires are not bad but in some cases they are and that can only be determined first hand not over the internet.

If the wires are good then a quick fix can be done. If wires are bad total replacement is needed.

Just so you know, You can put in the jumper (two male bullet ends on a 14 ga wire about 4 inches long) and leave it until a repair can be done correctly.

This will give you full control of the trim up all the way to trailer position with your trim button and you wont have to press the other button.

Some people actually have had me do this and leave it that way. They like to trim the drive out as far as possible for Max speed and this gives them the ability without having to play with the limit switch setting at all.

kghost said:

Yes..

from the original trim limit rotary switch, you could splice in the new one about 3-4 inches away from switch as mentioned.

Again this is not the normal fix only a "quick fix" that can last years........if done correctly.

Typically the wires are not bad but in some cases they are and that can only be determined first hand not over the internet.

If the wires are good then a quick fix can be done. If wires are bad total replacement is needed.

Just so you know, You can put in the jumper (two male bullet ends on a 14 ga wire about 4 inches long) and leave it until a repair can be done correctly.

This will give you full control of the trim up all the way to trailer position with your trim button and you wont have to press the other button.

Some people actually have had me do this and leave it that way. They like to trim the drive out as far as possible for Max speed and this gives them the ability without having to play with the limit switch setting at all.

Click to expand...

I have a nice offshore vessel, and I like doing things right, So thanks for your help on the jumper wire.
Looks like I'll be replacing the whole wire, the bolt looks like I can get at it.

Nice to see a forum where people are are willing to help with there knowledge.

Thanks Again

Sam

Good luck with this....It is a tough job but can be done.

be in the shade and have patients!!

Yours should be the ONE bolt style and that makes it a bit less difficult.

The older ones were two bolt....real b!tch!

kghost said:

Good luck with this....It is a tough job but can be done.

be in the shade and have patients!!

Yours should be the ONE bolt style and that makes it a bit less difficult.

The older ones were two bolt....real b!tch!

Click to expand...

Got the bolt out using a 11MM long extension swivel socket and a spot light to see the bolt, took about five minutes.

Cut the wiring on the inside of the Stearn, and clipped all the wire zip clips,

ordered a OEM Mercruiser Trim Tilt Sender Kit Alpha/Bravo 805320A03

Should go in just as easy. The wiring had a white grommett attached to them making the wiring water proof, so the new ones should as well.

Still do not not how to upload photos?

Sam
Got the bolt out using a 11MM long extension swivel socket

Should 15 year old limit switches be considered for replacement or simply wait for it fail. Maintenance for trim systems? (Not talking fluid) I not looking for work but do believe in preventive maintenance & don't want to be stuck at the ramp or somewhere else and have the trim not working.