4 HP 1972 Evinrude Yachtwin Pull Cord Question

Got one of these on my sailboat - runs great, however the pull start is giving me problems.

I have re-wound the original metal spring ( a be-'atch to do ) and re-assembled. I set it so there is constant tension on the pull cord assembly. It works well, but after 1-2 aggressive pulls, 1' or so of the pull cord does not retract. I then rewind the pull cord onto the pull start. There's tension again - but the same thing will happen just about every 3rd or 4th time starting it ?

The outside spring tab is set in place - I can only think that the inner most part of the spring is coming undone but then must re-attach again - but, at that point, the spring will have been partially sprung by then so Ill have to rewind the slack in the pull cord etc. etc....

What do you think ?

? A little help appreciated

Using the correct diameter cord???

Link to starter diagram:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...S&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Rewind+Starter

Correct diameter rope ? Hmmm.. I don;lt know - never though of that. Is that a possible reason why the spring partially ' springs ' ? Once you pull the pull cord, the cord slides back in but leaves a 1' or so - can you explain your rationale pls ?

Starter Diagram- I've reviewed this to see part #'s etc, As of now, this is not a parts issue - but a mechanical one. The only part I might need, based on my inexperienced mechanical mind is the spring.

abl1111 said:

I have re-wound the original metal spring and re-assembled. I set it so there is constant tension on the pull cord assembly. After 1-2 aggressive pulls, 1' or so of the pull cord does not retract. I then rewind the pull cord onto the pull start. There's tension again - but the same thing will happen just about every 3rd or 4th time starting it ?

Click to expand...

Was the manual starter functioning properly for months on end for you (picking a general time period) and just started to malfunction one day out of the blue so to speak... OR... is this engine new to you and this condition has existed since day one... OR... did you remove the manual starter for some other reason and encounter this after reinstalling it?

For a manual starter spring to disconnect, then on it's own, reconnect... I don't think that's possible. It is more likely that Part #2 (309192) via "bobbyc post #4" is missing and causing the main shoulder bolt to compress the unit too tightly which would allow the unit to seize.

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(Manual Starter Cord/Spring Installation)
(This pertains to the side mount type manual starters such as the 4hp models)
(J. Reeves)

Have the rope/cord wound around the starter pulley in the proper direction and tuck the end of the cord under itself to lock it in place.

Assemble the manual starter to the engine, having the inner sping loop inserted over the related pin, BUT leave the starter spring UNWOUND and simply hanging thru the slot of the manual starter housing with the long length of the spring out side of the manual starter.


Now, using your ingenuity, rig some kind of device to force that plastic gear up into the flywheel teeth, jamming it so that it will stay engaged in those teeth.


It is now simply a matter of putting a wrench on the flywheel nut and turning it in the proper direction to pull that spring into the manual starter housing which will properly rewind it. After the spring has been pulled in completely, continue to crank it further until sufficient pressure is upon the spring. Usually three turns of the flywheel is enough.


Now, keep a firm grip on that small plastic gear so that the starter does not rewind. Using a sharp pointed scribe, pick the loose end of the starter cord free and run it out its proper exit, then attach the handle to it. That should do it.


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I have seen that washer left out many times. As Joe said, it will bind up if it is missing.

The manual starter has been giving name problems for awhile, however - it used almost NEVER ! It's a small kicker I keep stored on my daysailer if the wind dies. So, if it has been used 12 times in 15 years, its a lot. Needless to say, I start her every year, assure she starts on 2-3 pulls ( rewinding the pullcord each time ), and winterize her in the Fall.

OR... did you remove the manual starter for some other reason and encounter this after reinstalling it? I did remove the manual starter - and I'm not sure if it was to repair it or to replace the exhaust plate ( there is a bolt that goes through the starter bracket and into the exhaust plate cover )

For a manual starter spring to disconnect, then on it's own, reconnect... I don't think that's possible. OK.

It is more likely that Part #2 (309192) missing and causing the main shoulder bolt to compress the unit too tightly which would allow the unit to seize.

I'm not sure how this would unwind the pull cord ? Or, reduce the spring's ability to rewind the rope ? Can you elaborate ? I will pull this all apart after a big sail I have planned to check for part #2 -for now, I cannot have the motor inoperable; a 3 day sail with camping etc around a Bay through (2) inlets etc - never have anything like this - sketchy, but an adventure !

The description on how to reattach the pull cord spring is incredible ! Sounds easier than winding that thing up, using zip ties etc !

Your post/reply #8 includes the statement.... "I'm not sure how this would unwind the pull cord ? Or, reduce the spring's ability to rewind the rope ? Can you elaborate ?"

The absence of the washer doesn't unwind the cord.... the absence of the washer enables the retaining bolt to tighten beyond the normal internal clearance, causing a binding action when you pull the starter cord. At that point, the pulley jams due to friction which in turn results in the cord not rewinding which at thw same time prevents the spring from rewinding.

Joe - thank you. I understand. So, if the washer is missing, theoretically then, if I loosen the bolt a little, the cord will pull back in ?

How does this model's inner part of the spring attach to the inside diameter of the spool ? Is it just a bend in the wire or a more positive connection ? If its not a washer issue - and the spring has just a bend in the inner spring holding it in place, then my deduction ( which could be 100% wrong - I was wrong several times today already is the inner spring connection is coming loose and then re-attaching itself.

I think were almost there !

Thanks

It's a bend (hook) that grabs a post on the pulley. Hard to think it could come off while under tension.

Sorry for the delay. I used the motor for a trip I had and DAMN I needed it. However, the pull cord did give me an issue. After the trip, I pulled the pull cord/recoil off, disassembled and took pix with a phone as I did. I have all the parts that the parts breakdown shows HOWEVER;

My starter recoil spring, Illustration #4 (part 312932) does NOT look like that. Both my ends on mine are different from either the Evinrude (OEM) or the Sierra. My outside end just has a reverse bend to hook into the slot, whereas every pix I can see of this recoil spring has a reverse bend with eye end. My inner end looks like a Sierra spring end in shape BUT, my inner hook opening is facing inwards toward the center, whereas the pix of a new Sierra hook faces the opposite way, outwards, toward the outside.

Thoughts ? I think I should just buy a new OEM one to be safe.

The spacer washer, illustration #2, is there between the bushing and The Cup. It looks a little tired. It has a concave to it - is it supposed to, or is supposed to be flat ( a new one is $9 ?! ) but if it is a wear item then maybe I should change it ? If it is supposed to have a cup in it, which way does the cup face - convex (rounded side) toward the cup or toward the bushing ?

Lastly, how, where and with what should I lube once I reassemble ? It was a greasy mess but I cleaned it with diesel.

Thanks.

Here is when I pulled it out.



This is after a clean up an adjustment to bend straight.

Either way, the spring inner end looks wrong...

It's a plain flat washer.... match yours up with one in a hardware store for a quarter, slightly more or less.

You can buy a new spring... OR... simply put the spring in a vice for support, put a hand held propane torch to the end of that spring, and using long nose pliers (or whatever)... curl the end of that spring so that it can't flip inside of the unit and unwind.

Your advice about the torch was awesome ! I used two real small pcs of thin but rigid sheet metal to sandwich the spring in place against the spring base, with vise grips, pulled 1.5" of spring out, cut the end, heated it with a torch and bent the end to an oem shape. Did both ends. Lightly lubed all moving areas with Super Lube.

The spring was in place so I used the method outlined above, by holding the gear arm up to the flywheel and turning the flywheel clockwise, the spring was set. Reinstalled. Pulled a few times - it feels real smooth.

For anyone doing this, it takes care in many parts i.e. Lining all the parts up to slide the big bolt through. Take your time, don't force anything. Take many pix with your phone or iPad to use later for reassembly.

The method of using the flywheel to coil the spring - will that work with a completely unwound spring ( birds nest ) ?

Told'ya you could do it!