Can't get 1 of 6 bolts out that hold the metal ring over the rubber ring. VP280 Help

1968 Chris Craft 23' Lancer. 5.7 VP 280 or 290. I can't get the last of 6 bolts out that hold the metal ring over the rubber ring
What should I try. ?
Thanks,

Try an impact wrench, assuming bolt head is still intact enough. When I had my Lancer reengined, the mechanic had the same problem. Ended up breaking the bolt, drilling it out and inserting a helicoil.

The hex is likely gone by now.
Using your best skills, make a center punch divit at dead center of the bolt.
Step drill what is left of the hex head, and continue until you get fairly deep into the clamping ring.
The bolt diameter is 3/8".
If need be, split the clamping ring and remove it .

Once the flywheel cover is accessible, you should be able to remove the remaining portion of the bolt shank.

A good used clamping ring should cost you between $20 and $30.

Keep in mind that these are not common bolts. They are a galvanized 3/8" NC Tap Bolt!


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Thanks Bob + Rick
I put the other bolts back in tight , borrowed an impact gun and hit again. No luck. Now i'm rounding the head so its drill or cut the head off time.
What's the trick to removing the helmet from the stearing arm to give me a little more working room.
I appreciate your help !

They make a reverse fluted socket that you drive over the hex head, designed for rounded fasteners, work really well. the harder you turn the better the grip. Available at most good hardware stores. Made by Irwin, Dewalt, Craftsman. Leave the helmet on, if you break it possible another can of worms. Had to drill many of these bolts out to remove ring for engine removal and transom shield repairs.

Thanks Gup, just came in to report I got the helmet off. I was terrified I'd break it and yes open another can.
I'm going for cutting/drilling the head off, I'm afraid of breaking the bolt off inside and having another problem.
I'll keep ya posted.

Got the bolt head cut off, now need to get the ring off and I can move on.
That's enough for today, I'll hit it again tomorrow.

BTW.... why u doing this?

It was a friends boat, ( he was 2nd. owner) he didn't have it winterized till after we had freezing temps. this was 2 yrs ago. Anyway I bought it as a project and just started fooling with it. So I'm pulling the engine. Then I'll clean up the bilge. Then I'll put another engine in it.

How long have you had your Lancer, what have you done to it, and how do you like it.

old bird said:

It was a friends boat, ( he was 2nd. owner) he didn't have it winterized till after we had freezing temps. this was 2 yrs ago. Anyway I bought it as a project and just started fooling with it. So I'm pulling the engine. Then I'll clean up the bilge. Then I'll put another engine in it.

Click to expand...

Do yourself a huge favor..... and install a new PDS bearing(s) while the engine is out!


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old bird said:

How long have you had your Lancer, what have you done to it, and how do you like it.

Click to expand...

This is my second 1969 23 Lancer since 1979. First one I reengined with a FWC 240 HP 318 Chrysler. Converted to thru transom exhaust with mufflers and thru hull water inlet with strainer. total rewire, new instruments and new decks with nautolex. Lost boat in a divorce in 1995. 11 years ago found another 1969 23 ft Lancer that spent its life in sea water and since owner flushed engine with fresh water every time he took it out, it still had its original 185HP 283 CID engine. Ran it for one season and then had a brand new factory MERC 5.7L MIE w/ FWC kit installed. Asked the mechanic to do a thru transom exhaust and he insisted it wasn't necessary ( also .changed drive to a 280). Put same size prop on as I had on my original Lancer and could not get anywhere near full WOT RPM. That fall, I converted to thru transom with mufflers (NJ law). Got another 450 RPM @ WOT. When I did my homework that fall I found that MERC's installation manual specified a 4" MIN dia exhaust port for single exhaust system and the 3 thru holes on a 280 transom shield in total only equate to a 6.8 sq inches area while a 4" diameter hole is 12.5 sq inches. So.... dual 3" ports which is the MERC 2 port alternative.

Removed idiot lights on panel and installed a water temp gauge (glue dowel in top hole and then use a rotary saw to cut a gauge size hole.). Removed ammeter and replaced it with an oil pressure gauge. Changed tach to electronic of course. The three deck plates finally gave up the ghost and this spring I made new ones and covered with nautolex. I like to stand at the helm so I moved the lounger seats back 8 inches. Took off that silly putty 1960 runabout steering wheel and replaced it with a stainless helm. Installed a bimini with rigid forward facing poles ( had to thru drill all the hardware on bimini) so it folds forwards, as I like to fish and needed the bimini to get out of the way when its time to cast to surface fish.

Raw water inlet is thru hull with a wedge inlet with an external stainless strainer. Previous owner built a plywood engine box to replace the silly plastic one and removed the full width back seat. Its my floating restoration .... had local upholstery shop redo seats... and after a "difficult afternoon" some years ago, installed half swim platforn with 2 step ladder as it VERY difficult to get back in the boat from the water. Hook on gunwale ladder do not work. ( Deep V hull heels over and you end up trying to get back in the boat climbing up a backward ladder..) BTW only way back on boat... engine off ... stand on cav plate, step on top of drive (ouch), grab socket of flap pole, pull yourself up over transom...not fun.

She is nice Capt. Mine is very similar in appearance not mechanics. Interesting on the restricted exhaust. I'm not sure what all i'll do with it, but 1st I need to get it operational, so i'll keep pickin at it.
I put a picture in ( by my self, wife didn't even help )
View attachment 15964

Thank You Rick,
I figured I should start a new thread as I move ahead and ask what all I should do + and how.