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2000 Johnson 225 Ocean Pro Check Engine Light on constantly

Hatterasnutt

New member
New to forum. Have been trying to figure this out for a while now, using suggestions I've found on this forum as well as others. Late last year I started experiencing issues with the motor cutting off at idle or low rpms. Would struggle to start, and when put in gear sometimes would cut off. Once you got going, would run great as long as I was running above 1000 - 1200 RPM. Did not seem to be any issue with WOT either. No sag, struggle, nothing. Motor would run great, however returning to the dock or putting it in neutral and it would cut off. Start whole process over again. I figured it may be a fuel issue, water in gas? Replaced Fuel/Water Separator, Fuel Filter, treated gas. Next I pulled all carbs and cleaned. One carb was leaking gas so I bought a carp replacement kit and that fixed that issue. Still, same issues. All this time I had no alarms.

Finally, this spring took to a mechanic. He said he didn't think it was fuel issue but rather an electrical ignition problem. One of the coils on the stator had melted. He replaced that and subsequently I needed a new power pack as well. Half the motor wouldn't fire. So we replaced that. Also had a tear in the VRO diaphragm so we replaced that as well. Motor using oil and plugs don't appear fouled. He also pulled, cleaned, and readjusted all carbs.

Picked boat up, first trip worked great. Started easy, no stalls when shifting into gear or placing in neutral. Ran good at low idle and WOT. Getting around 5700 RPMs at WOT. Next trip, started great, left dock, pulled into no wake zone, slowed down, Check Engine Light and horn alarm comes on. I do not experience any issue with running. Still 5700 RPMs at WOT, does not cut off at idle, just alarm light.

So, I read that this means fuel restriction of some sort. However most if not all of the forums I've read pertaining to this issue, the person also experiences some sort of motor performance issue.... and I'm not. At least not yet.

I've replaced the Primer bulb (OMC), water separator, fuel filter, all with Johnson OEM models. Still have issue with alarm. Bulb primes great, gets hard as expected. I do notice that after running a little the bulb is no longer hard. It's not flat by any strectch but I can if wanted pump it again. Not sure if it is supposed to stay hard and firm once the motor is running. I've checked for the presence of the anti-siphon valve at the fuel tank. Does not appear to be one on this boat. Maybe replaced already. Just appears to be a barb connector fitting. I've pulled the fuel pickup lines, not cloggs. Screens clean. All fuel lines are A1 marine grade Black hoses. All appear firm and not collapsing. I have not replaced any lines.... yet.

I read to check the Gas vent for obstruction, but it appears to be fine. Screens in place on through hull vent. I've started the motor with the gas cap off, same issue. I am going to check the system to see if I am getting proper vacuum this weekend. My neighbor says we can check that.

I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have a faulty vacuum switch. That's next on my list. The thing that is driving me nuts is the motor is performing great, just the check engine alarm which is somewhat concerning to me because I can't seem to locate why it thinks I have a fuel restriction. I like to go offshore fishing and don't want to have a restriction that is small become something large and then I have performance problems.

One other thing, I know notice (and maybe it has done this all along and I just didn't see it), but when I turn the key to the ON position, the system goes through its pre-checks as normal, No Oil, Hot, Check Engine, Low Oil, all flash and then go off. The Check Engine light comes back on. I have not yet attempted to choke or turn the motor to the crank or run position. Seems odd to me that the light would come on before I even try to start the motor.

Any ideas? I've already missed 5 weeks of fishing time with the boat at the mechanic. Not sure what else to do. Don't know if I need to replace the VRO or not. Seems to be functioning properly.

Frustrated!!! Thanks for any suggestions.

Nutt
 
The only sensor for the check engine light on your motor is the fuel restriction fault, which is a vacuum switch located on the oncoming fuel line
at or very near the VRO/OMS fuel pump. You will see a strange looking diaphragm contraption with a double wire connector.

Either the sensor is bad, or you have truly too much suction in the incoming fuel line.
 
There is a procedure in the service manual for checking for a fuel restriction with a vacuum gauge. Doing this procedure will prove if that vacuum switch is bad or not.
 
So, this weekend did some more troubleshooting. First, I verified that I am getting adequate fuel to the Fuel/VRO pump. Gas pulses good when I disconnected fuel line going from pump to carbs. Fuel also appears very clear and clean. I did find a small pin hole in one of the lines going to the first carb. Replaced line. Next, I placed a meter on the line coming from the fuel pump to the carbs to see what king of pressure reading I have. According to service manual I should see 4psi at 1000 RPM and 5psi at 5000rpm. After cranking motor, i consistently get 1.5psi. Took VRO/Fuel pump apart to investigate any issues. I noticed that the diaphragm on the fuel pump didn't seem like is was seated correctly but not sure if I did this taking it apart. The only other thing I noticed was this one round gasket that goes on the back side of the pump that had a little flat spot. Not sure that is causing an issue but it is there. Manual said that there is a replacement kit for the pump. Going to see if I can get one and and replace gaskets, etc. After I put everything back together we did another pressure test. Immediately got 4-5psi cranking and then it dropped to 3psi but remained at 3. This test was done in my driveway and not under load so I'm not sure what bearing (if any) that has. All fuel lines appear solid. Don't think I have an issue with my tank. Think vent is working properly. Replaced primer, seperator, and fuel filter. Don't want to buy new VRO/fuel pump if its not necessary. FYI, took boat out Friday after work, ran fine. Started up, left dock, got up to 5200RPM's before throttling back for no wake zone. No stalls, spits, sagging, etc. but still get check engine light alarm.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 
Not that at all.... just have not found that procedure in the manual yet. I did confirm continuity on the vacuum switch with my meter. Will see if I can locate the test procedure for vacuum and advise results.
 
Uhhh...what exactly does "I did confirm continuity on the vacuum switch with my meter" mean?
Be precise in your answer.

Think about this. I am forcing you to figure this out for yourself. Forget about finding any procedure in the manual. It is common sense....
 
Uhhh...what exactly does "I did confirm continuity on the vacuum switch with my meter" mean?
Be precise in your answer.

Think about this. I am forcing you to figure this out for yourself. Forget about finding any procedure in the manual. It is common sense....


The he answer to this question is the critical key to the problem
 
Yes. You are just about there.

EDIT: Hint....All fault sensors on this engine operate in this fashion: A tan wire (with colored stripes) is shorted to ground when the fault is active.
 
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