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Starting 454 XL's

Saltshaker

Contributing Member
Hi all, looking for some ideas. I have '94 454 XL's and they been great. This spring I had them tuned up and have run a good 100 miles on them with no issues. There have been a few times however this year, where I haven't been able to start them. And of course I always lose patience and flood them. Because of this, I like to start them weekly even if I don't go out. This usually help with the hard starting.

So, right now, I cannot get them running. They do turn over. Thinking it's fuel, yesterday, I changed the fuel filter on the port and she started right up. Only to die out after a few seconds. I could start her a few more times then nothing.

I've switched my tanks, for diff configs and that doesn't help. I'm thinking it's gotta be something fuel related. I do hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key.

I plan to have someone look at them over the weekend. But in the meantime, any thoughts?

thanks, frustrated :mad:
 
FWIW, I just talked to the yard who did the tuneup and theyre pretty sure its some sort of fuel delivery issue, which is what im suspecting. I do have 2 123g tanks and can cross them over. Strange thing is i'm having this issue on both motors with any tank combo.
 
If you use a primer bulb to prime, do they start normally? If so, I'd look at any anti-siphon valve plugging/leaking, crossover valve packing leak, and any other connection that could cause loss of prime.
 
You know, just after i got off the phone, I thought about my fuel vents. The boat was painted over the winter. And they plugged all my sink drains and bilge overboards. I'm wondering if there's some tape or something still on my vents. I know my water vent works. This sort of makes sense, except I have run the boat a few times with no problems. I ran home 70 miles, but the tanks were full. If the vents are blocked, maybe the supply lines have air?
 
how long between hard starting events??? its very common to have the fuel evaporate from the carb's float bowl in a few days during the summer.....

also, are the chokes working correctly?
 
Hi, this has been about 3 weeks now. Thats why i try to run them weekly even at the dock. But I think theres something going on this time. I've left it longer and not had a problem like this. And with 2 tanks and 2 motors... ugh. After the rain ill start with cracking the fuel fills and looking at the vents. Not sre how to describe the vents. they dont really have a mesh on them. Theyre the type that has a piecie set inside another. Almost like a pipe with a filler piece in the middle. I have the same for water and sewage.

thx
 
Might try and “pre-charge” your fuel system before starting – especially if the engine has not been running for an extended period of time. Before starting, put the trans in gear and hold the ignition key in the starter location for a few seconds. If your system is wired correctly, the fuel pump will run but the starter will not. This will replace evaporated or back-flowed fuel in the carb. You should be able to hear or feel the pump running. If the pump is not running using this procedure there is a wiring problem or an issue with the oil pressure fuel pump switch.
 
Thanks. Somehow the port started right up today. And we traced stbd to look like it's the fuel pump pressure switch. Power goes in but not out. So I'll probabaly swap both out on each engine. Stay tuned.


Thx!
 
The Crusader oil pressure switches are notonly problematic, but at $100+ a pop, also expensive. The port unit may be difficult to change due to access. All this occasionally results in the very unsafe practice of hot wiring the electrical fuel pump directly to the ignition switch. Defeating safety devises is never a good idea. Replacement should definitely be preceded by precise troubleshooting. The pressure switch is designed to direct voltage to the fuel pump during cranking and after the oil pressure reaches 15 psi. You will notice there are three wires going to the switch. The yellow/red wire provides momentary voltage “in” from the starter circuit, the purple wire provides steady voltage “in” from the ignition switch, and the purple/yellow wire provides voltage “out” to the pump by way of the 10 amp circuit breaker. The switch is “spring loaded” to connect the starter circuit to the pump. At 15 psi the starter circuit/fuel pump connection is opened and the steady supply voltage/fuel pump connection is closed. To test the switch it is necessary to monitor voltage going to the pump while the engine is at rest, cranking, and running. The easiest way to monitor pump voltage is to open the electrical box on the right exhaust elbow to gain access to the 10 amp CB and connect a volt meter to one of the CB connections. Checking voltages on both sides of the CB will ensure the CB is not an issue. With the ignition turned on there should be no voltage to the pump. With the key turned to start, there should be12+ volts to the pump while cranking. Once the engine starts there should be a steady 12+ volts. If the voltage is not going to the pump or is less than 12 volts, there is a wiring problem or the switch is defective. Switch failures are somewhat common. I went through two in four years – the last one failed after only a year. The failure mode on the last one was a gradual increase in resistance as it warmed up until the voltage to the pump was insufficient to maintain adequate line pressure and resulted in surging at high rpm. Hope this helps.
FL Panhandle
 
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Good post, Mr. Mullet. I'll file that one away for when I have the problem (before reading I thought I had already had every possible Crusader problem).

CaboJohn
 
Thank you. I believe this pretty much describes my issue. I'll be speaking with local crusader shop tomorrow. Had a mechanic do all chasing with meter etc. will most likely replace both switches. So far this sounds like the problem.
 
if it is the oil pressure switch, you may want to consider 'swapping' to a more commonly available one - a PS-64 (Standard Motor Products) is one option. You can rework the connector in the engine harness to mate the new switch or you can makeup an adapter pigtail....just food for thought ($15 vs $100+)....
 
Hi All, we swapped out the bad fuel pressure switch and with some more wire chasing, the motor is running nicely. Nice to know I was NOT out of fuel like everyone kept asking LOL. Didn't have time to do the other, but hope to soon. Ran the boat about 30 miles over the weekend after the swap.

thx
 
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