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  1. #1

    Default Leaking rear of 1970 318

    I have a 1970 Uniflite Express w/partial hard top and twin 318's. It was not winterized properly and most of the freeze plugs poped. We have replaced most of the but upon start up, now have water leaking from behind the bell housing on the port engine. I understand there are 2 more plugs behind the housing but what I don't understand is how to get at them. The hard top stops us from lifting the engine out so I was wondering if anybody has any experience and a procedure for us to proceed.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bruford SC , U.S.A.
    Posts
    324

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    You have to take the bell housing off or slide the engine to get at them.
    No other way around it......

  3. #3

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Thanks for responding. I guess that is my problem. How do i separate the two far enough to get in there and replace the plug? The hard top will not let me lift the engine. There is not enough room under the engine to get a jack in? There does not seem to be room. Do you know how to go about doing the separation?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Chaumont Bay, N.y., USA
    Posts
    5,218

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Ayuh,.... Take the hardtop off if necessary,....
    Any Grease is Better,... Than No grease at All....

  5. #5

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Did not know the hard top came off. I guess anything comes off but can a amateur take it off AND then put it back on.
    If so, any in site how? Or if I connected the drive shaft, some how hold up the engine, disconnect the bell housing. Might it all slide back far enough to get to the freeze plugs? Does that sound like an option?
    Any experience which would be easier (or more practical)?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Chaumont Bay, N.y., USA
    Posts
    5,218

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Ayuh,..... Is the deck big enough to use an engine lift,..??
    Any Grease is Better,... Than No grease at All....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Toledo Ohio
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    I used two small 2 ton hydraulic jacks and a lot sticks and blocks to raise my 318's for replacing rear crank shaft seals. You can raise them with a good pry bar, these engines are not that heavy.............Ray

  8. #8

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    No, not big enough and really not that strong. 3/4" plywood and all cut up into hatches and service doors.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    How did u separate the bell housing/trans unit from the block?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Toledo Ohio
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Remove the rear mount bolts, raise the rear of the engine and put a tapered block under the rear of the oil pan. Remove the transmission, the bell-housing, the drive plate, and fly-wheel. You can then reinstall the old plug if in good shape or put a new brass one in. Retorque the fly-wheel bolts to 55 ft-lbs......Ray

  11. #11

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Awesome, I think now I have the info needed to proceed. Having never done this before I was a little reluctant to just unbolting with out a plan. Did not want to end up with a "Yard Boat". Thanks again. John

  12. #12

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Bye the way. I was told I needed a special tool to disconnect the drive shaft. Any in site? This is my 3rd boat with Chrysler engines and never had a problem, though all before were Velvet Drives.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Toledo Ohio
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: Leaking rear of 1970 318

    Dose it have a standard coupling with four bolts, remove them. You can see pictures of my 27' Uniflite on Yacthworld.com on the bottom of page 7 in the Uniflite section......Ray

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