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2001 130TXRZ Need info on thermo switch

Thinman

Member
Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT.
I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays
shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared
temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F.

My question concerns the switch.
Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch?

I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket.
Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.
 
Why do you suspect the stats? If high temp was detected by the stats, the circuit would open and send the signal to the tach gauge. You'd see the temp symbol flashing on your tach gauge, you'd hear an audible alarm, and the engine would resort to limp mode. You didn't mention any of these signs. Also, if the high temp alarm is activated the thermo switches don't shut down the overheating bank. The high temp alarm activates limp mode (<2000 rpms).

The thermo switch discontinuity is up to about 180º. Any higher temp, continuity, thereby setting off alarm. So the temps you've measured aren't high enough to set off alarm, they are actually normal operating temps. And it's normal to have a difference in temp between banks.

Since you did not mention any alarm activation, I would be looking at your fuel system as the problem.
 
Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior.

With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches.

Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ???

Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term "stats". I'm not familiar with that.
 
One other thing. I'm wondering if the oiler alarm is in series with the temp switches I disabled. If so, that would also disable oiler alarms once I disable the temp switches. Not good.

I've ordered the after market repair manual. Hopefully that will have that info. Thx again for the help.
 
Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior.

With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches.

Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ???

Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term "stats". I'm not familiar with that.

Disregard my use of the word "stats", as I was meaning to type sensors. I've attached a copy of the thermosensor test procedure. There will be no continuity (closed circuit) through sensor until the temp reaches 180-185º, at which point the circuit opens and is continuous.

Re: Disconnecting sensors from engine while running
If you got the alarm while running with only one sensor, did you also disconnect this sensor and replace the former disconnected sensor, then run engine again? From what I take, you disconnected one sensor, ran engine, got the alarm, then disconnected the lone sensor (no sensors installed), ran engine, did not get the alarm. Is this correct?

Because if so, all you did was completely disable the high temp alarm system. By pulling out both sensors the engine has no way to communicate with the alarm system. So essentially, if you kept both sensors disconnected and continued to run the engine as it overheats....only a matter of time, rather seconds, before disaster. With all of this said, if you can get your hands on an external temp laser you'll know for sure if you've got an electrical alarm issue or over heat issue.

Your low oil alarm is separate from high temp alarm. Two different circuits involved.


Below is the procedure to test your high temp and low oil alarm systems:

To test the over temperature system on 99% of all Yams simply disconnect the pink wire and the black wire connected to the thermoswitch. Then connect the black wire to the pink wire on the engine side harness and start the motor. Wait up to a minute or so. You should hear the horn. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to.

To test the low oil quantity system in an oil injected two stroke simply drain the oil from the main engine mounted tank. Start the motor. The horn will be sounding indicating there is a problem. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to. Refill the oil tank.



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OK, Good news update.

Had time to remove the head on the cylinder bank that shuts down. Looked to have leak.
Glass beaded and milled the head. Put a new head gasket in and ran it WOT for twice earlier distance. No problems....

Looking better.
 
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