Logo

'93 Mercury 90hp Red stator help

mtammons

New member
I have a 1993 mercury 90hp electric start(serial# OD26...). I've order the red stator kit(398-832075a5) for it but not sure where the blue and blue w/white go from the adapter. The yellows connect where the existing stator yellows are. The ground from the adapter goes where the existing ground is. But unclear where the blue and blue w/white go from the adapter. My existing stator has a blue and red that go to the switch box. Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.

Other info.
the following have recently been replaced.
switch box(332-778a12)
regulator(815279a2)
solenoid(89-850182t1)

Thanks for your help!
 
I assume this is a CDI product?
This is a OEM part as Merc as been using it for years. As for the wiring the blue, blue/wht go to the blue/blue wht terminal's on switchbox and caps that come with kit go on the red,red/wht terminals.
 
Can somebody explain how this stator works and what the little skinny adaptor thingie does? I just worked on a 1990 Mercury 90 HP that had the red powerpack terminal capped. That's supposed to be the 'low voltage' supply off the stator, right? And there are two wires off the stator [excepting, of course, the yellow charge wires] and they go into that converter/adaptor/conditioner thing that's grounded, with just the blue PP lead coming out. Why did Mercury drop the high/low voltage system and how does this continue to work with the same packs? And, what about that 'bias' thing? I'm confused, but that's the usual situation when working on Merc's!
 
Poking around the 'net I see that this black box is simply referred to as a 'stator adaptor' or 'red stator adaptor.' I thought the red stators were used with Force ignition systems? And that 'stator adaptor' is a pricey part - how vulnerable is it to failure? Is it cheaper to use a 'red' stator and this adaptor than the old black stator? Better performance? Worse? My friend's outboard shop just worked on a later 3-cyl 90 Merc - same 'redesigned block' as my 1990 model and it uses a stator with red/blue wires going to the pack - no capped off red terminal. So, what gives?
 
This is a OEM part as Merc as been using it for years. As for the wiring the blue, blue/wht go to the blue/blue wht terminal's on switchbox and caps that come with kit go on the red,red/wht terminals.


Faztbullet, there is not a blue a/white on the switch box. That's where my confusion is. I don't know where to run that from the adapter.
 
Seems we have a typical cluster... going on here with these ignition systems - hey, it's a Merc so why should anything be simple? Looks as if they took the Force stator and Mickey-Moused it to the old Merc [1979/'80] type pack [that date may be wrong; I think they brought this out on V6's earlier but it didn't make it onto the L4's and L6's 'til the end of the decade] with some kind of voltage limiter box. And CDI is still making packs with blue AND red wires that don't use the adaptor; I'm seeing instructions on their web site to remove it when replacing a red stator. And if that 'adaptor' goes you're almost as bad off as if the stator went 'cuz it's almost as expensive. Great engineering move there.
 
Okay, so it's not a CDI unit, but they make a similar one with the blue/ blue-white and red/ red-white wires deal. Ask them how theirs is wired and you'll be fine.

Jeff
 
Well, I would love to call the company however I bought the parts separate on Ebay. Now that I'm a couple weeks into this, I should have bought the kit but I didn't. I bought the two parts(stator and adaptor). Thanks again for everyone's help. Hopefully I'll get the answer soon.
 
looks like I bought the incorrect adapter! There should only be a blue coming out of the adapter.


Below are Mercury's instructions from their install manual. I have the how-to paper from Mercury if anyone would like it. Just send me a PM.


a. Route BLACK lead of stator adaptor through grommet at top of electrical plate housing
and connect ring terminal to top attaching screw of starter solenoid.
b. Connect WHITE/GREEN and GREEN/WHITE stator adaptor leads to like leads of
stator.
c. Route BLUE lead of stator adaptor through grommet at top of electrical plate housing
and connect to like lead of switch box. Insulate unused RED lead of switch box with
female insulator supplied, secure with small cable tie.
d. Route YELLOW leads of stator through grommet at top of electrical plate housing
and connect to YELLOW leads of voltage regulator using YELLOW harness extension.
 
Hi there,

My early 90's Mariner (Merc) 90hp already has this adaptor attached. I started looking at all the wiring as I am getting high voltage readings (18v) and am trying to troubleshoot. I'll attach a picture for others who may follow.

I would love any documentation about what this does and how to check it is behaving itself!
 
Hi there,

My early 90's Mariner (Merc) 90hp already has this adaptor attached. I started looking at all the wiring as I am getting high voltage readings (18v) and am trying to troubleshoot. I'll attach a picture for others who may follow.

I would love any documentation about what this does and how to check it is behaving itself!

tilt trim.jpg

James
 
The stator adapter has nothing to do with high voltage readings.... that a battery or rect/reg problem

That's a great help thanks. I'll leave that alone.
I read that a rectifier/ regulator can be damaged by running the motor without any load, I wonder if a very full battery without any draw on it could act as a no load situation and cause damage... I will also check the AC leads out of the stator with the motor running when I can get it back in the water to see the effect of temperature and revs on the readings.

Any tips on reading the AC from the stator? This is completely new to me!
 
Those guys are great and will talk to u. They have. In 7th. -8th. edition cdi troubleshooting book.the old wire colors to new wire colors.
 
Hi All, I may be able to bring some info to the table here. I recently bought a Mariner 1998 (apparently) 50hp 3 cylinder from a guy non working, no spark. It is a red stator version with the sealed type switch box. The previous owner tried everything to get it going including replacing stator, flywheel, rectifier and switch pack. The trigger comes back ok on the ohms test. There was no spark until I removed the solid green coil wire which resulted in spark on the ofther two cylinders. As soon as I reconnect the green wire it kills the whole loom from stator to coils dead. Surprisingly the sold green wire is showing to carry the same AC correct voltage as the other coils so why this is happening technically is a mystery as I cant get into the switch box. On the wiring side I noticed that the red wire from the switch box was connected to the rectifier red wire (one of them). Im sure this is what has croaked the switch box because the switch box red wire is supposed to be redundant on a red stator/adapter system. Only one blue wire comes from the adapter goes to the switch box. The old black stator had a red wire that went to the switch box along with another wire hence why the red is redundant with red stator. Therefore i am confused when I see a red stator engine with an open style switch box connected to a adapter
 
Back
Top