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Crusader 6.ol Warning Lights

R

Russf

Member
2005 Crusader 6.0l engine. At startup of the port engine of the 4 warning lights that initially come on to show they are working the water coolent and the transmission lights do not come on. When I run the engine all of the gauges register normal and the reading are identical to those on the starboard engine. Can anyone tell me where the pickups for the warning lights are located? Knowing this I could begin to track down the cause of the lights out. Also any other suggestions?
 
The coolant temperature sender (there are two) will be into a coolant passage (usually on the intake manifold, perhaps different on your engine). The sender with the fancy plug goes to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The other has just a post with one wire one it, and it goes to the gauge. It is the one going to the ECM that the ECM uses to determine whether or not to turn on the warning light. You can search the internet for one of the many parts diagrams for your engine to see a picture of the temperature sensors so you will recognize them. The transmission temperature sender will be located on the top transmission, about the only thing on it that has a wire. The manual will tell you if it is connected to the ECM (likely) which will then control the over temp light. Or it could be the type of sensor that turns on or off at a predetermined temperature and only controls the warning light.

Go to a website called Pirate 4x4 to read an article about your ECM (a version of the MEFI 4). Also this article has a link to download the very necessary Diagnostic Manual for that unit. It will give you the connection information you need if your problem is in or out of the ECM. I would, however, switch connections or bulbs in the display to insure that you don't have a simple failure there before going further.

Good luck.
 
CaboJohn said:
I would, however, switch connections or bulbs in the display to insure that you don't have a simple failure there before going further.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

I'm with John on this.....the lights turn on at startup so you can verify they are "good".....so either look at the wires, the socket or the bulb on those two.

also, being a 'newer' 2005, I don't believe you will find too many options for parts diagrams....I'd steer you to the crusader site and see whats available in the owners section.....they make many of the parts manuals available for free....
 
I bared a small portion the the leads to the two lights that do not come on at startup and with a voltmeter found that 12 volts goes to the lights when the key is first turned. Now I am looking for a source for the light strip. Have yet to find a source.
 
12VDC with a meter doesn't eliminate a potential wiring harness issue.

Not sure what a light strip is - a pic may help there.....FWIW, marine OEMs rarely use custom piece parts....so alternatives sources are very likely
 
12VDC with a meter doesn't eliminate a potential wiring harness issue.

Not sure what a light strip is - a pic may help there.....FWIW, marine OEMs rarely use custom piece parts....so alternatives sources are very likely
 
The light strip is a rectangular plastic piece affixed to the instrument panel with 4 warning lights that all should come on when the key is first turned to show that they work and then immediately go off. When the engine is running they will not come on again unless something is overheating. What I did was hook a voltmeter up to the wires going to each light that did not come on. Then I turned they key and got an immediate 12 volt reading which then went off. This clearly indicated that the light was defective because the proper voltage was going to the light. This clearly eliminated a wiring harness issue.
 
Interesting problem. Temperature warning circuits are activated by sensors which ground the circuits at set temperatures. Suspect the initial test of all warning lights requires the ECM to provide a momentary ground along with the momentary 12 volts. Not sure how it would do this but suspect there must be some type of relay (probably solid state) somewhere. Please share the solution when the caper is solved.
 
Mullet. The caper is solved. It was not my intent to determine whether the sensors were working and would send a voltage to the lights if say the transmission overheated. I was only concerned that the lights did not come on momentarily when the ignition key was first turned on which is the way the lights are tested. They then go off after about two seconds. As stated above I determined that the test voltage was being sent to the lights. And since the light did not come on that is where the problem lies-a dead bulb.
 
Outstanding !! Luv a success story. Concur with your insistence that the warning lights check and the warning system is fully operational. Good on Ya !
 
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