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More on 2hp Evinrude won't start

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338ftw

Member
Got the recoil spring back in thanks to help from members here. Now it won't start. I disassembled and cleaned the carb. Installed a new float with needle and seat. Cleaned all the jets and passages. I installed new fuel line and cleaned the tank valve. I also gapped and cleaned the points. I have very nice white spark on new plug. If i put fuel directly in the cylinder and put the pug in it starts and runs fine. I have fuel in the bowl. Any other ideas?


How many turns out should the low and high speed needles be out to start with?
 
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White Spark??... Do a proper spark test using a tester whereas you can adjust the gap. ON that model engine, set the gap to 1/4". You should get a strong blue lightning like flame... a real snap!

The fact that you can get the engine running by priming it with fuel indicate that fuel is not flowing through the carburetor... BUT... then again, you state that the engine runs fine after you prime it which indicates that fuel is indeed flowing through the carburetor..... sorta contradictory and confusing there. At any rate, do the following adjustment setup, then get back to us.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
joereeves said:
White Spark??... Do a proper spark test using a tester whereas you can adjust the gap. ON that model engine, set the gap to 1/4". You should get a strong blue lightning like flame... a real snap!

The fact that you can get the engine running by priming it with fuel indicate that fuel is not flowing through the carburetor... BUT... then again, you state that the engine runs fine after you prime it which indicates that fuel is indeed flowing through the carburetor..... sorta contradictory and confusing there. At any rate, do the following adjustment setup, then get back to us.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info on setting the low and high speed. I appreciate that.


Spark gap on my tester jumps a 1/4 inch with a nice pop. More of a white color than a blue but that could be my eyes.

As far as the confusion goes. It will run just long enough to burn up what I put in the cylinder. Once that buns out it dies. I am going to remove the carb again and see if I can figure out where the issue is. It ran fine last year and the water pump went bad. I haven't been able to get it running again since replacing the pump. I did a compression test on it cold with choke off an throttle wide open. I am getting 69 psi consistently. I assume thats enough based off the readings I get on my 5.5 twin.
 
Yes, agreed.... your further explanation of the running... burning off of the prime, then stopping indicates that indeed fuel is not flowing through the carburetor, and as you mention you're headed in that direction now. Let us know what you find.
 
joereeves said:
Yes, agreed.... your further explanation of the running... burning off of the prime, then stopping indicates that indeed fuel is not flowing through the carburetor, and as you mention you're headed in that direction now. Let us know what you find.
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I must have killed it when it overheated. I am getting a mix of fuel and water now that i fixed the fuel flow issue,
 
338ftw said:
I must have killed it when it overheated. I am getting a mix of fuel and water now that i fixed the fuel flow issue,
Click to expand...

Check the head gasket. Quite common for a overheated engine to suffer loose bolts, screws, etc and encounter a leaking head gasket.

If you're speaking of water flowing with the fuel, that's another matter... usually a case that you bought some bad fuel.
 
joereeves said:
Check the head gasket. Quite common for a overheated engine to suffer loose bolts, screws, etc and encounter a leaking head gasket.

If you're speaking of water flowing with the fuel, that's another matter... usually a case that you bought some bad fuel.
Click to expand...

When i pull the cord with the plug out it's spitting a good amount of water out of the plug hole. I didn't try pulling it over out of the tank to see if it was water in the fuel. I will test that today. I had an extra head gasket and changed it and it made no difference. I checked the head and block surface with a true surface and feeler gauge and nothing was warped enough that the gasket wouldn't have sealed.

Really upset with my self. It was a great little motor that always ran like a top. I should have known better than to do what I did to it. Stupid comes with a price tag sometimes I guess
 
I know you mentioned on another post what year that engine is (Model # ?) but I've forgotten so I'm not exactly sure if it has a exhaust baffle plate or not. However........

Water can enter the cylinder via a:

A Damaged base gasket (gasket under the powerhead).

A faulty head gasket.

A faulty exhaust baffle plate gasket (if it exists).

A water tube NOT properly inserted into the water pump assy <---- This error can result in the copper water tube being shoved upwards whereas it will never be seated properly until it is pulled down (un-bent) where it belongs. This type error will also allow the water pump (if in good condition) to shoot water straight up into the powerhead's exhaust ports.

Don't give up on it.... It's such a small engine that it is no big deal to tear it down to have all of the possible water entrance areas view at the same time... and... it's very unlikely that any major problems exist such as a cracked block, that sort of thing. Keep at it... let us know what you find.
 
joereeves said:
I know you mentioned on another post what year that engine is (Model # ?) but I've forgotten so I'm not exactly sure if it has a exhaust baffle plate or not. However........

Water can enter the cylinder via a:

A Damaged base gasket (gasket under the powerhead).

A faulty head gasket.

A faulty exhaust baffle plate gasket (if it exists).

A water tube NOT properly inserted into the water pump assy <---- This error can result in the copper water tube being shoved upwards whereas it will never be seated properly until it is pulled down (un-bent) where it belongs. This type error will also allow the water pump (if in good condition) to shoot water straight up into the powerhead's exhaust ports.

Don't give up on it.... It's such a small engine that it is no big deal to tear it down to have all of the possible water entrance areas view at the same time... and... it's very unlikely that any major problems exist such as a cracked block, that sort of thing. Keep at it... let us know what you find.
Click to expand...

Its a 1975 2hp. 2502d

I pulled the power head today and I am going to replace that gasket. Hoping that is where the issue is.
 
338ftw said:
Its a 1975 2hp. 2502d

I pulled the power head today and I am going to replace that gasket. Hoping that is where the issue is.
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If you pulled the powerhead..you are not that far from seals and rings at least. Now you have got something to have some faith in for the future. Just think how much better that tiller arm will feel when you grab it after giving the motor some respect..:cool:
 
338ftw said:
When i pull the cord with the plug out it's spitting a good amount of water out of the plug hole. I didn't try pulling it over out of the tank to see if it was water in the fuel. I will test that today.QUOTE]

To test for water in the fuel... simply drain the fuel out of the carburetor... and/or directly from the fuel tank in a clear glass container. Water is heavier than gasoline/oil so it will separate in that jar... very easy to distinguish.
Click to expand...
 
joereeves said:
338ftw said:
When i pull the cord with the plug out it's spitting a good amount of water out of the plug hole. I didn't try pulling it over out of the tank to see if it was water in the fuel. I will test that today.QUOTE]

To test for water in the fuel... simply drain the fuel out of the carburetor... and/or directly from the fuel tank in a clear glass container. Water is heavier than gasoline/oil so it will separate in that jar... very easy to distinguish.
Click to expand...

It's defiantly coming from the pump. When I pulled the tank off it was still shooting water out of the plug hole.
Click to expand...
 
johnnygjr said:
You got me confused
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Sorry I will se if I can clear it up.

Water pump quit last year and motor overheated.

Installed new water pump and motor wouldn't run

Found and fixed a fuel flow issue.

Motor ran for 45 seconds then died.

Pulled plug and motor shoots water out of the plug hole when you pull it over.

Replaced head gasket and checked flatness of head and deck. Both were fine.

Waiting on more parts now.
 
All it takes is a few drops of water to make you scratch your head are you using fresh fuel mix in the tank? I just unscrew the high speed jet all the way out to drain any water in the float bowl. 1 1/2 turns for the slow needle and 3/4 turn for the high speed jet. Pull the plug and put fuel mix in the cylinder and see if she pops?
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
All it takes is a few drops of water to make you scratch your head are you using fresh fuel mix in the tank? I just unscrew the high speed jet all the way out to drain any water in the float bowl. 1 1/2 turns for the slow needle and 3/4 turn for the high speed jet. Pull the plug and put fuel mix in the cylinder and see if she pops?
Click to expand...

It's pulling water even with the tank unhooked and the bowl drained.
 
338ftw said:
It's pulling water even with the tank unhooked and the bowl drained.
Click to expand...

On that model (I just checked the book), it should be impossible to dislocate the top portion of the copper water tube from the powerhead area..... BUT did you? You had the powerhead off to replace the bottom gasket so you should have been able to determine if that tube is where it belongs... in grommet, in slot.

In post #3 above, you make the statement " I haven't been able to get it running again since replacing the pump."

That statement, especially after all that's been gone through above, leads me back into the scenario of "Hmm, what may have gone wrong with the water pump job?"

The engine ran fine previously... the water pump failed, engine overheated... Water pump replaced... now water is being fed to cylinder.

Remove the lower unit, dismantle and double-check the water pump, make sure the top of the copper water tube is still where it belongs, Measure the distance between the bottom of the water tube and the bottom surface of the long exhaust housing to determine if it is still being inserted into the pump grommet the correct distance... and if not, the tube has been accidentally pushed upwards and that must be corrected.

Where are you located?... I'm in the Tampa Bay, Florida area.
 
Just a quick update. I installed a new head gasket and powerhead gasket and it's running like a top again. Thanks for all the help.
 
You replaced the head gasket back via post #7 where you state "I had an extra head gasket and changed it and it made no difference."

What went wrong there?
 
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