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question on older johnson outboard?

kycoalminer

New member
Hey guys got a question that i need answered . I got a 1975 johnson 50hp hydro electric drive outboard. i went through the carbs, changed all fuel lines, and new spark plugs. but my question is when you put the motor in neutral postion the prop turns and is in forward position. Is that by design to do this? it goes in forward and reverse no problem. just concern about it. why would it turn in neutral?
 
First of all there is no such thing as a 1975 hydro-electric drive.---------1972 was the last year for those.----------Model # should be posted.-------------If it is in fact a hydro-electric it will be in forward when it is NOT RUNNING.--------The motor does not shift until there is oil pressure from the pump and it needs to be turning for that to happen !
 
When running on a flushette, there is no back pressure against the propeller blades... when in neutral, the propeller will turn due to internal friction... easily stopped with a piece of wood, whatever.

What is the model number of that engine?
 
thanks for the information. I know it's hydro electric drive. it labeled on the side of the control box. my main concern was i went to lake the other day with a friend and he had never seen a motor set up like this. so when you startit up by default the motor is in forward, so there is no true neutral correct? are these good motors or are they junk?
 
(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.


The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.


In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)


To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.


This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 
The motor shifts to nuetral after the starter turns the flywheel about one turn.----Yes it does !----And it is NOT a 1975 model.
 
so when you get the engine started , there is a true neutral and when your in neutral, the prop should not turn at all. mine does turn but it's at a slow speed. i'm new to boat motors and trying to learn.
 
Thanks joe reeves for the reply,I have change the low unit oil and did use type c blend, I also have read your other post in the past few weeks. I have did a toggle switch mod. the switch in the control box was bad , It shifts from forward to reverse find but i was concern about neutral. when in neutral the prop does turn it's slow but if you give it gas it will take off. is this normal?
 
In nuetral the prop may turn simply because of drag on oil and bearings.------Should be able to stop it with a stick or suitable piece of lumber.-----------For nuetral there should only be voltage to the green wire.--------For reverse it is voltage to both wires.-----And I consider these electric shift units to be well engineered / simple / very reliable.------Some will argue that fact.
 
When in neutral the prop does turn it's slow but if you give it gas it will take off. is this normal?

When in neutral, can you stop the prop from tuning with a stick if some kind? And if so, does it remain stopped when you apply a little throttle while in neutral?

Note that the terminology (it will take off) means nothing to us, you need to explain if you were able to stop the prop with a stick while at idle in neutral and if the engine suddenly jumped into gear when you applied throttle, that sort of thing to avoid a lack of communication.

Don't forget the model number.
 
I will try the a piece of lumber to the prop, the neutral wire i have 12 volts, and in reverse i have 12 volts. and it does not jump into gear. it shifts smooth. I had never seen a electric shift motor i guess. I just worrying for nothing. i seen were owners of these engines have lots of problems with these. i will take it to the lake and try the stick and foul the prop and let you know.
 
They did NOT MAKE the electric shift in 1975 !!-----------So the model # plate or bracket has been changed.-----------Does the wiring harness on the motor have a big yellow plug on the control side and the motor side ??-----Any pictures of control box and motor ?
 
I will try to upload some pics of motor and control box. the bracket could have been changed. it has a manual tilt. but the motor is a electric shift. I wonder why someone would change the bracket.
 
Yellow plugs on the wiring harness , yes or no ?---------By answering seemingly useless questions we can provide you with a path forward !
 
If you indeed have a hydro electric shift lower unit and a powerhead that has a red electrical plug... you have a conglomeration of engine parts thrown together.
 
I don't have muck money in the boat. the boat is a 1996 bass tracker and at some point someone has put this engine on it. do you think it's worth keeping or should i trash it and find something else?
 
Only in 71 and 72 did the hydro-electric shift have yellow plugs.------So at this stage we do not know what you have.---------Your control may say " powershift II " on it but that is NOT electric shift.
 
I will post some pics of the engine, control box and wiring harness. I'm going to contract another owner that had this boat and see what he knows. I hate it's not all original. the engine seems to start up good . but it's old and i don't want to put money in something thats not worth it. thanks guys for helping me . I would have never knew this.
 
The 71 / 72 models were the only 50 hp that came with electric shift.----------------The 71 / 72 models and the 72 model 65 hp were the only ones to come with the big yellow plug in.--------------------In 73 the big plug became red and there was no more electric shift.
 
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