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Tips for fixing a frozen VST drain screw

M

metal-chicken

Regular Contributor
Well I've been wanting to drain the VST on my 225 for ages but my screwdrivers weren't long enough so I finally got to buy a new (cheap) one the other day.
Went to unscrew the drain screw and of course it's solid and the tip of the screwdriver started bending :mad:

Other than 'buy a better screwdriver', anyone have any tips on how to get this sucker undone? - I suspect it's not been drained for a very long time :(
 
Pull the vst, pull the lid, drain all the fuel, wash it with a good degreaser(no gasoline fumes) and then put heat on it. Make sure you purchase all the parts to put it back together before hand including a new drain screw.
 
I thought that might be a suggestion - think I'll leave that task for after the summer! I'm not having any issues but would like to drain it sometime.
 
Ah right... cool.

LP filter was clear, engine water separator was clear and the big external filter was clear also...... I'll leave the VST alone!

Thanks Chris.

:cool:
 
metal-chicken, that drain screw does seem to bind up a lot. Once you get a good 10" screwdriver, get some PB Blaster on that screw and let it soak for a couple of hours. Then put the screwdriver in the slot and tap it lightly a bunch of times with a small hammer. It should come loose. If not, repeat the procedure.
 
Yeah baby!

Either the tapping with the hammer or the change to a different penetrating fluid (from WD40) ... or a combo of both has done the trick. Screw now moving nicely, although I may just order another one as the head is slightly mangled now.

Drained the VST just for kicks and of course there was pretty much nothing in it - a very small amount of water but that may have been from the sides of the jug I'd just rinsed out!

Anyway, happy days :eek:

Before starting the engine should I just leave the ignition switched on to allow the VST to refill?

[Although I wasn't having any apparent fuel issues I think this engine may have been neglected for a while so this was just another box that I wanted to tick]
 
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Just prime it good with the pump up bulb, then turn on the key switch for maybe 4 - 5 seconds before cranking.. That should be all that's needed.
 
WD-40 is a marvelous product. I have used it extensively over the years in many ways. Because it repells moisture so well, I have used it MANY times to spray ignition systems on cars that have been "drowned out". I keep a can in both my car and truck for this very reason.
It is an effective degreaser that won't harm plastics and is safe to use around electrical components and under the hood or anywhere you wouldn't want water contact or harsh chemicals.

It is an excellent "light lubricant" and works well on things like door latches and kids toys.

But, as a penetrant or "rust buster".......I use it to clean my toolbox.

WD-40 Does have a fairly new product out called "Spe******t Rust Release". I believe it is intended to compete with PB-Blaster and Aero Kroil. I have a can but I really haven't done an AB type test of it against old tried and true Blaster. And, I really don't think anyone has ever made a more effective penetrant or even one equal to Aero Kroil. Although Blaster does come close.

Jimmy's $0.02 worth.
 
metal-chicken said:
Well I've been wanting to drain the VST on my 225 for ages but my screwdrivers weren't long enough so I finally got to buy a new (cheap) one the other day.
Went to unscrew the drain screw and of course it's solid and the tip of the screwdriver started bending :mad:

Other than 'buy a better screwdriver', anyone have any tips on how to get this sucker undone? - I suspect it's not been drained for a very long time :(
Click to expand...

When you get around to it, when using penetrating oil try to soak it twice a day or more for a few days. Let it really work in there. Also, if it won't back out, try tightening just enough to break the corrosion. After that, if it doesn't budge, get yourself a left handed drill bit. It will either spin it out, or you'll drill it out. Good luck.
 
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