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skiffman1

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Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.
 
Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine
 
johnnygjr said:
Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine
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YES I squeezed primer bulb before restarting. Should primer bulb stay hard after priming initially?
 
I am new to gas engines this size. What's the best way to check fuel lines for air leak or fuel leak is obvious look for fuel I assume. But for air leak do is spray lines with soapy water spray?
 
Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue.........

You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue.
 
skiffman1 said:
It's got to be getting spark, when I am able to start with warm up lever. Right?
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Don't assume.

Check your spark at cranking speed with the lever down. Lifting the lever will increase the cranking speed. If you have a weak stator or your starter is weak it will not crank the engine fast enough to generate ignition spark. Lifting the lever may give you just the increase needed to start the engine.

Simple to check and verify before anything else is checked.
 
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racerone said:
Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?[/QUO

Recent replacements- spark plugs, water pump, fuel pump, water/ fuel separator, carbuerators completely rebuilt,fuel filters,

My mechanic is stumped in what is causing this issue to happen intermittently, has offered to have another mechanic checked it out and see if they can find something and he will pay bills.
However I would like ideas and suggestions to keep from getting ripped off on unneeded services.
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Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?
 
racerone said:
Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?[/QUOTE

I know nothing about mechanics of motor. Compression readings were fine when all repairs were done. About adjusting screw, I would not even know where that screw is located.

Another thing is as soon as I get home and put water muffs on and turn key, it always fires up without having to lift warm up lever. Even sometime while out after it will not crank and I decide to troll some then go to crank it as normal just in neutral it will fire up flawlessly, then some days I can run it and won't have this issue at all. Very puzzling.
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Is your battery fully charged, Is it being charged when running? What chris was saying is engine must crank 200-300 rpm in order for stator to generate an ignition spark, Compression test and an open air gap spark test need to be done before a fuel diagnosis. Have stator coils been inspected? Tested?
 
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