1988 9.9hp/with 15hp carb. no spark

I had not tried starting this motor since last July and it had started and ran fine .Last week I decided to figure out why the throttle handle was so hard to turn and do a carb. rebuild.Well I pulled the flywheel thinking there was corrosion causing an issue under the plate the moves around when turning the handle, but it was ok and everything looked good under there.After doing the carb. and needing a new throttle cable and Cam follower assy and roller( I broke it with the pull starter install) I was sure this would just fire up no problem like always.Drove to the river and nothing but a flooded engine.No spark on either cylinder.Pulled boat out and even tried other plugs, no luck.Checked my lanyrd switch and it operates on an open circuit and it was still open and I even disconnected it to be sure.Could I have damaged something under the flywheel?Not much there to mess up since I did not do anything, but look at it.I am sure the key lined up fine.Could the CDI just went bad sitting since last July.Wish I had ran it first now!

Was the flywheel torqued properly?

I have it torqued around 45FTLBS which is what I found unless it is wrong.

Go to cdielectronics.com for trouble shooting procedures.

I jumped the gun.I was trying to have someone see spark on the plugs and they saw none.After I got home I was able to throw together a quick double plug spark checker and had the wife watch it and she also was able to pull it and it had great spark.Jumped 1/2 inch.Something though that I think may be the problem is the carb. rebuild.I think the engine was flooded.I was rushing due to some rain coming when trying to start it, but the primer bulb did not want to stay firm and my wife said is "that gas" on the water when I pulled the rope.It was coming out the exhaust.I am wondering if the float needle is not seating properly and it was just pouring gas into the engine and the plugs fouled right away.I never got burp from the engine that's why I suspected spark.Not sure why it would not seat?Everything seemed ok when I put it together and got the correct kit from what I could tell.

What's the compression on it ????

Are the plugs soaked with fuel after trying to pull start? On your carb. rebuild was the float level checked,altered in any way? Did the needle move freely"up and down " in the seat

I don't have a compression gauge right now.Motor ran strong before this.Yes the plugs were soaked!I think there is an issue with the seat and float for some reason.Float level seemed ok.Assume it is to be level when needle closed.I did not have this issue before the carb. rebuild with the old cork float and rubber tipped needle..Not sure why I would have a problem after putting the kit in.So much for preventive maint.Have rebuilt carbs. on my old MC before and had issues with flooding with new kit due to main needles and such.These OMC/BRP kits should be pretty reliable.I hate to tear it apart again, but may have tne question I have is when pumping primer bulb on this should the force of the float on the needle be enough to oppose force of you squezzing the bulb?I can keep pumping and hear the gas squirting in carb..Don't remember this happening before and bulb does not seem to get firm as it did before.Also, I have an inline filter between the bulb and engine if that matters.Thanks..

If you can keep squeezing the bulb fuel is going somewhere.------------------Right through the fuel pump diaphragm or the float valve !!

After taking the carb. apart again and verifying seat ok on float I think that it is ok.I did not like the fact the float is much bigger than the old cork one.Just enough room in the bowl to move up and down.I may have overpumped the bulb after I had cut my fuel line to put in the fuel filter and it took longer than I was used to in order to purge the air and fill the bowl and I guess the float and needle can't withstand the pressure that is put on it.Probably my fault on that.

On my 15 I can overpower the float needle with the primer bulb with a healthy squeeze. I do that on the first start of the day.

It's possible new float is binding on sides of float bowl,thus letting fuel run unchecked past needle and seat, The ethanol will eventually eat up your cork one

The cork float was still in surprisingly good condition.Probably original from the 80's.I was concerned about the binding issue, but I could hear the float moving up and down before installing the second time so I think it has enough clearance.I am sure they would have made them smaller many years ago if they had issues.Just have to be more gentle on the priming.

You know, I have a 1982 15 HP that I'm close to getting running. Had the same problem for a while with this motor - rebuilt the carb but when I use the primer bulb fuel would gush out the carb. My latest attempt to correct was to adjust the down angle of the float, which I had not done before. Hope to give it a try this weekend.

Good luck.

CMOS

When I pulled carb. out again yesterday I looked at that too and made a minor adjustment.I may have to move it moreI liked the size of the old cork float better.Just got it started again on the muffs and the water stopped peeing!Pulled lower unit and two fins broke off of impeller.One on order now.Guess it was due.Just did my 20hp last week for same reason.