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98 Johnson Fast Strike 115 idle setting

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Bjsmith919

Regular Contributor
Think the idle is set too low on my 98 Fast Strike 115. It will not stayet running unless I keep a little pressure on the hot foot, even in neutral. It runs fine when I give it gas to go, just having trouble at idle. What's the normal ram at idle and how do I adjust it if need be? Thanks for any help.
 
How many carbs do you have? There is an idle adjustment next to the throat where the air silencer goes. Its kinda down inside, not right on the outside of the carb. I have a 98 faststrike 150. Mine are hex tool, yours may be phillips or just slotted. If I remember correctly, from the seated position, its five full turns counter clockwise. Thats just the factory setting. You should start from there. Make sure you adjust in the water, not on the muffs.
 
I'll have to check when I get home, not 100% sure. I saw the dial thingys like my old 79 Evinrude 115 had and I'm pretty sure that's how you adjusted it on that one, just couldn't remember if it was top or bottom. Glad I checked here first
 
I had the same problem with mine last year. Part of my issue was warped carb bowls. Make sure yours are not leaking, where the bowl attaches to the body of the carb. That gasket can go bad, and leak as well. Does the engine spit & sneeze?
 
Davem02 said:
I had the same problem with mine last year. Part of my issue was warped carb bowls. Make sure yours are not leaking, where the bowl attaches to the body of the carb. That gasket can go bad, and leak as well. Does the engine spit & sneeze?
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Yep, it does. What was the other part of the issue?
 
If its spitting & sneezing, that sounds like a possible air leak in the fuel lines/system (same issue as mine). You should do a total carb rebuild. Check and make sure all your fuel lines are in good condition. Make sure the fuel line and bulb are good. Start with the carbs first though. Don't go with after market kits either. Spend the money on OEM. Make sure there is no leaking fuel from any fuel lines on the motor & also the carb bowls to carb body. If you have the plastic bowls, they tend to warp over time. I've replaced all six of mine. Hopefully with a carb rebuild that'll take care of your issue. I ended up having to replace the VRO, and more.
 
I was told it's best to completely do away with the vro and premix but haven't yet. This motor looks so much more challenging to work on than my old evinrude. I could have the carbs and all fuel lines off of it in about 10 minutes. Thanks for the info. I'll check it all out when I get home
 
Ok, its really not that bad once you learn it. I bought the repair man. and taught myself, along with this forum and some help from local repair shop.
 
Take pictures before and during disassembly for reference,soak them overnight and be very thorough,take your time and clean every nook and cranny
 
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