Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Volvo Penta 4.3 GL loud clunk in rear of motor

T

Tittan

Member
Hi again... Volvo penta 4.3 GL I have a clunking noise in the engine, quite loud...after a bit of investigating, rods / lifters all good... with intake manifold off the sound seems to be coming from the rear of the motor...clunks with a manual turn as well... every rotation.
 
Do you know how old the u-joints are? Ricardo would have a better idea but I would pull the drive and see if the noise goes away I am thinking it is a U-joint or PDS bearing?
 
Last edited:
NO idea on age of U-joints... was heading in that direction... so if I pull the drive and the noise goes away it tells me that the U-joints or gimbal bearing is shot? and if the noise persists.... then what?
 
Thats a good start the crosses and gimbal bearing are common wear items it would give you piece of mind knowing their condition. Ricardo forgot more about VPs than most people will ever know you gonna have to wait for the real pros on what you need to do. It will help to know the complete model numbers of the engine and drive there are alot of 4.3 GLs as SXs. Do you have a manual? Boatinfo library will probably have the manual you need to do the service work yourself.
 
Tittan said:
Hi again... Volvo penta 4.3 GL I have a clunking noise in the engine, quite loud...after a bit of investigating, rods / lifters all good... with intake manifold off the sound seems to be coming from the rear of the motor...clunks with a manual turn as well... every rotation.
Click to expand...

Is this engine out of the boat?
 
Hello, there is no stamping on the engine, I'm sure it is a rebuild, based on the registered engine it is a 1998 VP 4.3 GL-A, the part numbers on it numbers on it suggest it is a 4.3 GLMMDA...


I downloaded the GL-A manual...
No the engine is still in the boat...
 
Pull all the belts off, if the noise remains.....Check the starter, it may be staying engaged in the flywheel (if all the rods are tight like you say, but I think not) Sounds like something is busted up inside the block....
 
Sounds like something bouncing around in the flywheel housing can you get under the engine and remove the dust plate on the bottom of the flywheel housing?
 
Dont matter either or you will need to start taking it apart may as well start with the starter, but it is more than likely something you need to pull the engine anyways. Dont look like you will have much room to work unless the rear seats can be removed?
 
Tittan said:
Thanks will update when I get time to pull engine.
Click to expand...

So here is the update... the flywheel had play in it, retourqued the fly wheel and coupler play has been removed...

Question the coupler isn't level to the flywheel... is this normal? also the outside housing of the coupler is out of round?
 
You should also replace the gimbal bearing that with the new coupler should tighten it up nice. If you dont know how old the crosses are change them as well. The coupler (they call it a clutch) needs to be balanced if out of round you will get alot of vibration into the upper gearbox. Just guessing you dodged a bullet if the coupler would have grenaded.
 
............................
Tittan said:
SternDrive..SX... no noise when I spin the prop
Click to expand...
FYI...... with the V/P cone clutch system, spining the propeller rotates the lower gear set, the vertical shaft and the upper gear unit sliding sleeve only.


kimcrwbr1 said:
Do you know how old the u-joints are? Ricardo would have a better idea but I would pull the drive and see if the noise goes away I am thinking it is a U-joint or PDS bearing?
Click to expand...
Good suggestion. Universal joint "bearing crosses" or the gimbal bearing!

kimcrwbr1 said:
Thats a good start the crosses and gimbal bearing are common wear items it would give you piece of mind knowing their condition. Ricardo forgot more about VPs than most people will ever know
Kim, thank you for the kind but eggagerated words! :D
Click to expand...

Tittan said:
So here is the update... the flywheel had play in it, retourqued the fly wheel and coupler play has been removed...

Question; the coupler isn't level to the flywheel... is this normal? also the outside housing of the coupler is out of round?
What do you mean by "coupler isn't level with the flywheel" and "is out of round"?
Is the coupler face not parallel with the flywheel face, and are you seeing run-out at the coupler?
The coupler face should fully mate up to the flywheel face, and the coupler should not oscillate any..... at least not to the *****
eye.
Click to expand...


.
 
Re: "........ at least not to the ***** eye."

An automatic reminder from the moderator to always wear safety glasses??????


 
Hello thanks for the reply... the coupler flange mates to the flywheel flush and smooth... the open end isn't level to the flywheel when the flange is seated. and the housing (for lack of better terminology) on the coupler is out of round but the splines and sleeve are in great shape.
 
Hi guys, thanks for all the help on this portion of the project. So I replaced the coupler with a new one and aligned it. It run a little rough but i'll start a new thread for that.
Here is a video.

 
Tittan said:
I did, compresion was done with cold engine 100 to 120 on most with one at 90.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... You have a rebuildable core motor,...... Not a Runner, with those compression numbers,...

110 psi to 'bout 130 psi is a very tried motor,...
A healthy runner will be 140 psi to 'bout 180 psi,....
Under 100 psi, is a rebuildable core,...
 
You should do a leakdown test before pulling the heads. At the very least it needs head gaskets a leakdown will tell you if it is leaking past the piston rings, valves or head gasket. Or a combination of them.
 
B4 you panic.... try to do a compression test with a fully charged battery, good connections, a wide open throttle and a warm engine. At least two compression strokes ( 4 engine revolutions) with the ignition disabled.
 
Back
Top