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volvo aq131a broke starter tip off

medic1585

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i bought a boat,1986 glasstream that has sat open for 3 years. has a Volvo aq131a sterndrive, boat look good inside and out. motor was locked up initially ,but got it broke free finally. dropped oil plug, and had more water in it than oil. got all that lined up .had some electricl issues, but got that lines out too. finally started after new starter motor. after running a few minutes,started making a grinding high pitched noise. then died. tried ti restart, but only made a grinding noise from starter. pulled starter, and about a 3rd of tip of starter motor was broken off. do i have to pull motor to retrieve broken starter tip.also i suspect it may need new crnk bearings from grinding noise i initally heard.
 
Low oil pressure would normally be a symptom of worn bearings,if bearings are worn that solves the issue of retrieving starter tip,have you tried a magnet,starter housings are usually aluminum,good luck, Keep us posted
 
....and there is no reason that I can think of, that a new, correct P/N starter, properly installed, would have its nose broken.
 
tried to fish out broken nose cone today without pulling motor, to no avail. motor still spins well, with large ratchet on crankcase bolt. didnt notice any grinding or noise. my friend seems to think if I had spun a bearing, it would have seized the motor, idk.. so, tomorrow, im borrowing a motor puller and backing motor off enough to get broken nose out and inspect for damage to fly wheel. ordered a new, original starter motor . will be here next week. if all goes well ,i will reinstall motor, hook up new starter, and try to run motor again.
 
You can remove the dust plate on the bottom of the flywheel housing (bell housing) and fish out the piece. depending on the size there is not alot of room between the housing and the flywheel. There is three or four bolts holding the cover on if you can get under the engine?
 
ok,, already removed cover over fly wheel, and tried to fish it out. still no luck. which would be easier, pull the motor or stern drive to access flywheel. your correct, it has no motor support mounts under front of motor. but the clearance to access flywheel is very tight. ive tried to figure out how to upload some photos, but it is above my pay grade, and intelligence to do it. lol
 
If you can take a mirror and inspect the flywheel teeth good I couldnt imagine what would cause that other than a defective casting from the factory. Did you try and piece it together to see if you got all the bits out? I suppose it is possible a bolt or something in there got bumped up when it was running. Inspect the flywheel good or pull the engine and just replace the flywheel while it is apart?
 
pulled motor out today. retrieved broken starter nose cone. but all six bolts on fly wheel are bent, had to take them out with channel locks. nose cone had no signs of damage other than being broken off. does flywheel come off after removing those six bolts. also inside of bell housing is really beat up, like it had a piece of metal had been there at one time. still fighting with pic uploads, this iPhone 7 is hard to deal with at times
 
If it was me I would replace the flywheel and bolts and PDS bearing in the center of the crank. Was the spring damper on the flywheel damaged? Did metal fragments get on the PDS seal I am not sure if you have the grease zert on top of the flywheel housing for the PDS bearing if so give it a good dose of grease while it is easy to get to. Is the exhaust hose on the exhaust manifold in good shape if not put a new one on as you put it back together. That will save you a headache replaceing it if it is ready to go.
 
If it was me I would replace the flywheel and bolts and PDS bearing in the center of the crank. Was the spring damper on the flywheel damaged? Did metal fragments get on the PDS seal I am not sure if you have the grease zert on top of the flywheel housing for the PDS bearing if so give it a good dose of grease while it is easy to get to. Is the exhaust hose on the exhaust manifold in good shape if not put a new one on as you put it back together. That will save you a headache replaceing it if it is ready to go.
yes going to replace fly wheel,,damper and bearing and bolts. and greae it all up before dropping it back in. I think the damper has a metal piece missing and may have been fishes out by previous owner. nothing else would have caused that much scarring on bell housing. exhaust hose good also. thanks a bunch !
 
Do you know how old the u-joints are? Now would be a good time to replace the PDS bearing and seals if necessary as well as the crosses and bellows. You can also inspect replace the raw water fitting and hose on the intermediate housing and get it ready for the summer. All are common wear items you should address if you do not know the history of.
 
I didnt think of the damper possibly losing a piece/s get jammed in the starter but it is possible that would make one hell of a noise I imagine to bend the flywheel bolts.
 
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