Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1994 johnson 150 fast strike vlot meter spikes into the red 17-18 volts intermittently

W

Willispwillis

New member
Hello first post please forgive if it's a repeat. I have a 1994 johnson fast strike that the tach will work intermittently along with the voltmeter ( indash) reading 17-18 volts and not always together. Sometimes the tach works normal and volt meter stays around 12 other times both gauges jump up together the tach appears to read correctly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The voltage regulator was changed around a year and a half ago still looks very good all wiring is clean and tight from battery to instrument cluster. Thanks in advance.
 
I've had issues with my Tach not reading correctly. I've got a 98 150 faststrike. I asked the shop about that issue. He said to give it a few taps on the glass when the motor is running. They tend to stick due to moisture. I did that, & its been reading fine. However, if your volt meter (which I don't have) is also giving you wrong readings, it could be more involved. Hope this helps? I'm sure someone else with more knowledge on this forum will also comment with an actual fix.
 
Davem02 said:
I've had issues with my Tach not reading correctly. I've got a 98 150 faststrike. I asked the shop about that issue. He said to give it a few taps on the glass when the motor is running. They tend to stick due to moisture. I did that, & its been reading fine. However, if your volt meter (which I don't have) is also giving you wrong readings, it could be more involved. Hope this helps? I'm sure someone else with more knowledge on this forum will also comment with an actual fix.
Click to expand...



Thanks bud I have tapped on the tach a few times before I noticed the volt meter. What caught my attention was after dark the lights get dim then bright again that's how I found the voltage issue. Thanks again.
 
johnnygjr said:
check voltage at battery posts with a multimeter
Click to expand...

At batteries running (with muffs) 12.3 volts with tach not reading. Volts will jump up at higher rpms here's the crazy part the tach may read normal and volts stay low or they may jump to 17 along with tach reading correctly. I double check all wiring and connections all appear to be tight clean and making good contact. Thanks
 
Had the same problem, search my posts. Tuned out to be a bad connection on the stator change coil (yellow wires). Must have changed out 3-4 voltage regulators before I decided to bench test the stator. Once I did everything checked out ...til I started jiggling wires dunging the test, then the sucker reveled itself... new stator ...no problems.
 
sfc2113 said:
Had the same problem, search my posts. Tuned out to be a bad connection on the stator change coil (yellow wires). Must have changed out 3-4 voltage regulators before I decided to bench test the stator. Once I did everything checked out ...til I started jiggling wires dunging the test, then the sucker reveled itself... new stator ...no problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks will check that this afternoon. Will post finding.
 
johnnygjr said:
check voltage at battery posts with a multimeter
Click to expand...

12.63volts this evening at the battery cleaned and tighten all the cable/ wire connections tach started working once until I switched it off and restarted it never kicked on again. Turned on the navigation lights depth finders and all accessory lighting voltage dropped to 12.3 again. Any ideas from there? Thanks again
 
These 35 amp stators run very hot and over time melts the epoxy insulation on the teminal connections. this could introduce corrosoin . This results in intermittent charging and ignition issue. Because you are having a charge issue or over charge issue with a tach issue , it would seems to be that you are having issues on the stator charge coils, and the charge coils are also what sends signal to the tach via the voltage regulator. so a new stator is probably what the doctor orders, and if it is not new replace the regulator as well. But replacing the regulator may resolve, if the stator has an issue it will damage the regulator and return. Make sure if you replace they are both the came manufacturer, CDI with CDI, OEM with OEM. you get the gist right?

If you do your own work, The stator is not a hard job. But it has to come off the engine to test it. The hardest part is getting the flywheel off but a 12$ puller from harbor frieght was all I needed. And replace the flywheel bolts, dont reuse them.
 
wing nut at battery terminal are notorius for burning out stators on that type motor. If you end up needing a stator, be sure to use nuts and proper marine battery. no wings and no auto style adaptors. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Thank you it does have auto style adapter lugs and wings I did change them and swapping battery this evening it has a cheap marine battery that checked good but I'm gonna start fresh thanks again.
 
I have the proper marine battery on mine, but I've used the wing nuts to hold on any other electronics on that battery. I haven't had any issues with charging or anything. The main positive & negative terminals seem original, and no corrosion. I even sprayed that red battery saver stuff on all terminals. I have noticed from time to time, that my fish finder will occasionally say, low voltage. The lights and everything else seem to be working just fine though. Also, when I trim the motor up or down if at night, the lights will dim a little. Anything I need to be concerned with here?
 
The charging system on this engine really does not charge the battery it just maintains it. 35 amps is for when your running to power the electronics so it does not steal power from the batts. One thing allot of owners don’t realize is you should always top off your batts with a full charger every 10-20 hours of use. I have had my interstate marine batts for 5 years now and they load test out in the green every time. Try it , Charge it to full 100% run your boat and after 10 hours of use hook up a battery charger again, it will probably be at 85-90% charge or less depending on if you use your electronics allot with the engine not running.
 
I have a 98 Johnson 150 fastStrike. I have two interstate marine batteries for my trolling motor. Those are hooked up to an onboard battery charger/maintainer. Never have any issues with them. The other smaller marine battery is for all my other stuff, ie: fish finder, Aux power port, lights etc... & of course starting the engine. I don't have this battery hooked up to a charger at this time. But I'm wanting to get one this year that can handle three batteries. This particular battery is new from last fall. So not even a year old yet.
 
Back
Top